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java fern problem: please help!

yme

New Member
Joined
10 Mar 2009
Messages
24
Location
Amsterdam
Although I joined the ukaps forum 6 years ago, I never really posted on this forum.... But now I really hope to get some great input from you!

I have a couple of problems that I can not solve, despite 6 months trying...

This is the tank:

bdf9eab2-8254-4213-be0d-441edacc2759.jpg


The main problem is that the new leaves of the javafern don't grow well. During or even before the unfolding, you see holes forming, apical side is most affected. below a couple of pictures. the bolbitis is also slightly affected, but less for sure.

SV108213.jpg

adult leave, a typical leave.... the damage was caused during the development of the leave, not after the leave was formed

SV108215.jpg


SV108218.jpg


typical new growth. these leaves are just a couple of days old....

possibly related to this (or not) are to other problems that I experience: green translucent water and green spot algae.

the water in my bath tub:
SV108135.jpg


What I do know: I feed my plants EI style:
-50% waterchange per week. new water is 100% RO with sera mineral salt and some extra Mg, Ca K salts
-due to the green spot algae I have been increasing during the last 6 months my PO4 dose. from 4 ppm per week to 2x 10 ppm per week. the PO4 level in the tank is 20 ppm --> no effect
-I add 0.15 ppm iron per day (0.05 ppm Fe_EDTA, 0.05 ppm Fe_DTPA, 0.05 ppm Fe_gluconate)
-other micro's are added according to EI
-NO3: 10 ppm per week. NO3 in the tank is around 15-20 ppm.
-light: at the surface I had 50-60 umol and 30 at the bottom. 3 weeks ago I lowered the lights to have 30 umol at the surface and 15 umol at the bottom. so far: no effect
-CO2: I have a oxyguard CO2 meter and it measures 30 ppm. it is freshly calibrated, so likely more or less accurate. pH drop is also 0.9 points to 6.6 during the light cycle

the green water is not caused by algae (uv-c did not work, and I don't see algae under the microscope) but activated carbon or purigen also does not help. So I was thinking it could perhaps be caused by the melting leaves, releasing chlorophyll to the water.

there is more info that I can give, but I think this is most relevant part..

Do you have any idea what is causing this?

thanks!

yme
 
Chloramine can make water look green.

"While the photograph of the pool looks like it may contain an algal growth, it actually is the case that very dilute aqueous solutions of monochloramine have a distinct greenish-yellow cast."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Chloramine

But you describe the water in the tub as if it's from your tank. If so, that's probably from the micro you dosed.
 
thanks for the answers!

@Greenfinger2: I don't think it helps: CO2 is high, light is low and I have a vortech mp20 (forgot to mention it) so all the plants are gently moving in the current

@xim: the water in the tub is indeed the water from my aquarium after a week of adding ferts. as I use 100% reverse osmosis there is no chance that there is a lot of chloramine. But trace fertilizers is a good option. Could it be that I simply add too much? I know that iron tests are kind of crap, but I have measured it: directly before adding iron I measure 0 ppm, directly after adding I measure what I add and the next day it is again 0 ppm. Probably the very high PO4 precipitates it.

Chris Jackson: thanks! it is my first nature-style attempt and I really like it! I am sure that it is no fish damage: I only have one small SAE (5 cm). I do have a lot of amano shrimps, but I have never seen them eat small leaves.
 
too little?

After the readdition of sera mineral salts and CaCl2/CaSO4, the water should contain around 50 mg/l.
(Mg: 14 mg/l, K: 27 mg/l)
 
well, I think I know where the colour of my aquarium water is coming from...

SV108222.jpg

tapwater

SV108226.jpg

after adding the week amount of traces (minus Fe) to mimic the maximum build-up in the tank

SV108227.jpg

after adding the week amount of Fe to mimic the maximum build-up in the tank

would it be wise to lower the amount of Fe? (I think yes) Is Fe gluconate even useful at 20 ppm PO4? Or should I lower PO4 as well?
The other traces are also added EI style, based on CSM+B levels. Could this be on the high side as well?
 
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