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Loads of Co2 but drop checker always dark green

Cro

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I'm running my 240ltr with a 2kg Co2 tank, it is supplying 2 spiro 9000 diffusers which are running at around 3 bps each, yet I still have a darkish green drop checker all the time and algae issues. Anyone got any ideas? Lights are 2X39W T8's on for 8 hours a day, Co2 on 2 hours before lights on and off 2 hours before lights off. Flow rate is 1 X 3000lph power head, 1 X Eheim 2073 and 1 X Eheim 2076. I am EI dosing also. My 2kg Co2 bottle has gone into the red today, It was last filled 3 weeks ago. :wideyed:
 
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I would say that there is something wrong with the dc fluid :thumbdown: there is another thread on the forum regarding bad fluid purchased or the surface of the water is being disturb too much and the gas is escaping.

Regards
paul.
 

Cro

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Flyfisherman said:
or the surface of the water is being disturb too much and the gas is escaping.
Ooh, that maybe it. I have my spray bars directly above the diffusers and both are set to aggitate the water surface thus negating the need for the air pump at night.

Will change and see what happens.

TYVM :thumbup:

Alex
 

ceg4048

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Cro said:
I'm running my 240ltr with a 2kg Co2 tank, it is supplying 2 spiro 9000 diffusers which are running at around 3 bps each, yet I still have a darkish green drop checker all the time and algae issues. Anyone got any ideas? Lights are 2X39W T8's on for 8 hours a day, Co2 on 2 hours before lights on and off 2 hours before lights off. Flow rate is 1 X 3000lph power head, 1 X Eheim 2073 and 1 X Eheim 2076. I am EI dosing also. My 2kg Co2 bottle has gone into the red today, It was last filled 3 weeks ago. :wideyed:
Hi, I guess the obvious questions should be asked. Are you using 4 dkH water in the dropchecker? Have you identified the type of algae to ensure that this is a CO2 related algae and not some other type of algae? Check JamesC's Algae Guide for confirmation of the species.

You know, it's pretty easy to check your dropchecker fluid because this reagent is just a pH test fluid. Any acid should turn the liquid yellow. Go to the kitchen cupboard. On the third shelf, near the Worcestershire sauce you'll find some vinegar. Remove your dropchecker, turn it upside down and add a drop or two of the vinegar. Does it turn yellow immediately? If so then that's an indication that the reagent itself is probably OK.

Cheers,
 

Cro

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I am using 4dkH solution in the drop checker and am adding 4 drops of bromo to it, is that too much bromo? I will try the vinegar trick tonight.

The algae types I have are BBA & Oedogonium, this week I have developed GSA on a small area of glass which gets very good water flow. I seem to have good water flow throughout the tank as I see all the plants swaying, there is 1 area which is an exception which does have some movement but not as much as the rest of the tank. I keep an eye on this area and have done a little moving around so now the fish like to swim through that area as a kind of thoroughfare, hopefully aiding water movement.
 

ceg4048

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Well, the lighting seems OK, flow seems good as described. As long as your spray isn't breaking the surface this should be fine. If you can afford it you might try supplementing a liquid carbon product like Excel or Easycarbo for a few weeks. Mechanical removal is a must right now. Remove any infected leaf immediately and increase the frequency of the water changes. Once the algae forms it's not likely to go away by itself.

Typically you only need a couple of drops of pH reagent, but adding more drops cannot explain a poor colour change response.

Cheers,
 
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ceg4048 said:
Typically you only need a couple of drops of pH reagent, but adding more drops cannot explain a poor colour change response.

Cheers,

Clive

So the more drops you add the slower the time periodicity is for the reaction of colour change.
Paul
 

Cro

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ceg4048 said:
Well, the lighting seems OK, flow seems good as described. As long as your spray isn't breaking the surface this should be fine. If you can afford it you might try supplementing a liquid carbon product like Excel or Easycarbo for a few weeks. Mechanical removal is a must right now. Remove any infected leaf immediately and increase the frequency of the water changes. Once the algae forms it's not likely to go away by itself.

Typically you only need a couple of drops of pH reagent, but adding more drops cannot explain a poor colour change response.

Cheers,
Surface aggitation has been addressed this morning so hopefully that'll help. I'll do some large scale pruning this week of all affected leaves, should I remove the Mopani wood and scrub it also as that is what has the BBA? I am adding 25ml of Flourish Excel with the macro nutrients every other day, but it doesn't seem to be having any effect. I have this week reduced the amount I am feeding my fish as i think I have been over feeding them, I will as of this week increase water changes for the next 3-4 weeks.

Thanks for all the help.

Alex
 
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Surface aggitation has been addressed this morning so hopefully that'll help. I'll do some large scale pruning this week of all affected leaves, should I remove the Mopani wood and scrub it also as that is what has the BBA? I am adding 25ml of Flourish Excel with the macro nutrients every other day, but it doesn't seem to be having any effect. I have this week reduced the amount I am feeding my fish as i think I have been over feeding them, I will as of this week increase water changes for the next 3-4 weeks.

Thanks for all the help.

Alex[/quote]


Alex

Have you tried spot dosing the mopani wood ? when you do your wc. As for food I add a very small amount - enough for two mins, then i add a tiny bit more that it - say enough for 4mins max. Surplus / excessive food left in the water column will upset the balance of water parameters.

Paul.
 

Cro

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Flyfisherman said:
Have you tried spot dosing the mopani wood ? when you do your wc. As for food I add a very small amount - enough for two mins, then i add a tiny bit more that it - say enough for 4mins max. Surplus / excessive food left in the water column will upset the balance of water parameters.

Paul.
No I haven't, I have heard of spot dosing but not sure what mix to do :crazy: I believe it's Excel and water but at what ratio? The bottom of the Mopani wood has BBA too so how can I spot dose that without removing it? I have to say I don't like the idea much of taking the wood out as it's where the fish hide when I'm doing water changes, except the Mollies who are daft and like to come and watch. :wave:
 

ceg4048

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Flyfisherman said:
ceg4048 said:
Typically you only need a couple of drops of pH reagent, but adding more drops cannot explain a poor colour change response.

Cheers,
Clive
So the more drops you add the slower the time periodicity is for the reaction of colour change.
Paul
No, not at all. That's what I'm trying to say. There is no difference whatsoever. 2 drops changes at the same speed as 4 drops. That's why it's a waste of drops to add 4 when 2 can do. Then you'll have to buy more reagent twice as often...

Cheers,
 

JamesM

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Cro said:
Flyfisherman said:
Have you tried spot dosing the mopani wood ? when you do your wc. As for food I add a very small amount - enough for two mins, then i add a tiny bit more that it - say enough for 4mins max. Surplus / excessive food left in the water column will upset the balance of water parameters.

Paul.
No I haven't, I have heard of spot dosing but not sure what mix to do :crazy: I believe it's Excel and water but at what ratio? The bottom of the Mopani wood has BBA too so how can I spot dose that without removing it? I have to say I don't like the idea much of taking the wood out as it's where the fish hide when I'm doing water changes, except the Mollies who are daft and like to come and watch. :wave:
Spot dose Excel direct via a syringe when the filter is off. Leave for a few minutes then fire up the filter again.
 

ceg4048

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Cro said:
should I remove the Mopani wood and scrub it also as that is what has the BBA? I am adding 25ml of Flourish Excel with the macro nutrients every other day, but it doesn't seem to be having any effect.
Hi,
There are a couple of ways to spot dose the wood with Excel. You can put some Excel in a spray bottle. When you do a water change, spray the Excel on the tufts when the water level is low enough to expose the tufts. If you don't have a spray bottle, the you can use a clean paint brush or any other method to apply the liquid on the affected areas.

If you are dosing Excel you should dose it every day for the same reasons that you inject CO2 everyday. Intermittent application of Liquid Carbon is not generally as effective as daily dosing.

Cheers,
 
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ceg4048 said:
Flyfisherman said:
ceg4048 said:
Typically you only need a couple of drops of pH reagent, but adding more drops cannot explain a poor colour change response.

Cheers,
Clive
So the more drops you add the slower the time periodicity is for the reaction of colour change.
Paul
No, not at all. That's what I'm trying to say. There is no difference whatsoever. 2 drops changes at the same speed as 4 drops. That's why it's a waste of drops to add 4 when 2 can do. Then you'll have to buy more reagent twice as often...

Cheers,

4 drop will give you a darker colouration which theorically should take longer to change colour than a dc with only 2 drops, some people add more reagent which gives a darker colouration which allows them to see the change in colouration better.

see attached short cut for further details.
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=5128&start=0

Regards
Paul.
 

ceg4048

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Flyfisherman said:
4 drop will give you a darker colouration which theorically should take longer to change colour than a dc with only 2 drops, some people add more reagent which gives a darker colouration which allows them to see the change in colouration better.

see attached short cut for further details.
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=5128&start=0
The depth of color and the speed of color change are two separate issues and are mutually exclusive. From our perspective the speed of color change is instant, regardless of the number of reagent drops used. You can test this for yourself with some vinegar or with lye. The speed of color change when the dropchecker is in situ is throttled by the rate at which CO2 travels from the tank water into the sample water and produces carbonic acid. This happens at a very slow rate and is measured in hours. So the rate at which CO2 is translocated into the sample water compared to the rate at which the reagent responds to the translocation is not even close. Don't confuse these two rates.

Cheers,
 

Cro

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I've gone with 3 drops, 2 is very faint, 4 is quite strong.

I've done a little work with the flow and where to C02 bubbles are being taken in the tank, as well as significantly reducing the surface agitation. First signs are good so hopefully my tank has taken another step forward.
 

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