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Low energy and waterchanges

mort

mort

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Joined
15 Nov 2015
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Hi, i'm kinda new to planted tanks. I've kept a small 27L shrimp tank for the last couple of years. It is run using easycarbo and profito with 50% weekly water change with a 70/30 RO/tap mix. Light wise its a tmc mini tile and its done pretty well. I've since got a new 60x45x45cm TMC signature and was planning on running it along the same lines. As it sits the lighting is 2 TMC grobeams (looks enough but thinking adding another maybe next summer if needed), substrate is tropica's soil with manado top and I plan to use easycarbo and profito at least to begin with as I have it to hand (any other opinions on what would work much appreciated).

I'm hoping the tank will be a jungle style tank so does the above setup seem sensible?



My main question though is about water changes. I have always done 50% weekly waterchanges with the same 70/30 RO/tap mix (our water is very hard), but just stumbled upon something which stated you shouldn't be doing this for low energy tanks and that topping up or small water changes was better. It will have a decent fish load eventually but probably not until it is a few months old. I also do water changes a few hours before the photoperiod and before I do the daily dosing.



This is basically a tank to help me learn for a while and maybe transitioned into a more complex system in time, so i'm open to any advice on how to go about running it.



many thanks
 
If you were not doing excel (glut) then you can indeed run it as a low energy top up only tank provided lots of plants (that grow), floaters and low bio load.

With excel (glut) you will still need some water changes. Perhaps can get away with 20-30%/week say.
 
Hi all,
mort said:
My main question though is about water changes. I have always done 50% weekly waterchanges with the same 70/30 RO/tap mix (our water is very hard), but just stumbled upon something which stated you shouldn't be doing this for low energy tanks and that topping up or small water changes was better. It will have a decent fish load eventually but probably not until it is a few months old. I also do water changes a few hours before the photoperiod and before I do the daily dosing.
Click to expand...
I change water regularly in my tanks (all low tech.). If you are worried about "fluctuating CO2" (and I'm un-convinced), you can just let the tap-water stand for a while before use. It suits me to a small water change every day, but I don't think 50% should cause any problem.

Have a look at this thread <"Fish health in relation to no water changes in low tech tanks">.

cheers Darrel
 
Thanks guys. I must admit I have not had any issues with 50% weekly wc on my current nano. Maybe that is because I use a large proportion of ro which has sat around for a while.
I've read the link and further links attached to it and the health of my fish is premium to me and I have a confession, i'm more marine orientated, so love a good water change.

I also think I've come to a realisation today and that is I was planning to complicate the system in the future but thought why not just do it right from the start. So was wondering if you guys thought that adding a co2 kits would work with the twin grobeam lighting or would that need to be upped? I can then go EI and stick to the larger water changes.
I appreciate any advice you have.
 
They are the aquagro grobeam ultima twin strips. They look fairly bright but coming from a marine background i'm used to needing much higher PAR than these look like they are kicking out. ITs also hard to know what plants are suitable because they have to cover 60x45 and with being LED, and plants listed at so many watts/litre, i'm no idea what they are capable off.

I've also just been doing some more reading and thinking maybe the possible anti algae benefit of liquid carbon may be better so I don't muck it up. I'm more a less technology is better type of guy anyway but saw a really nice display with co2 and Altranthera reineckii today and I think may have got ahead of myself.
 
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