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Ludwigia super red new growth yellow...and other problems

S

Seoulstar

Seedling
Joined
9 Jan 2015
Messages
15
Hi everyone,

New to this forum so thought I would seek advice on some problems I'm having with my current 90cm tank.

Setup
Size: 90 x 45 x 45 cm
Light: 1 x Finnex Planted Plus 24/7, 1 x Finnex Ray 2, 1 x Finnex Fugeray Planted +
Soil: ADA Amazonia
Setup date: March 2016
Dosing: Half EI dosing + Fe dosing
CO2: pressurized, 3 bps (about), drop checker green/yellow
Filter: 2 external filters

Problems

Some of the new growth is quite pale and yellowish with dark veins. What do you guys think is the problem?

20161117_202209.jpg

20161117_202258.jpg
 
rebel said:
I'd day iron. Increase it by 50% and see over next 3 weeks.

Can you show a FTS?
Click to expand...

Thank you for your response. My guess is Fe too so I'll increase it to see where it takes me.

Here is a full tank shot.

20161114_220521.jpg
 
yeah, That's alot of plants so you may need quite bit of dosing. nice tank btw!
 
Might would start CO2 an hour before light's on if not already,and increase all fertz to suggested EI level's.
Seem's a lot of light to me ,and is light energy that drives demand for CO2,nutrient's.
While half EI dosing might have been enough earlier,might not be enough now that plant mass has increased.
 
Hey man nice looking tank ;)

The guys that came here to help made good points, but besides seeming that you have a large plant biomass, microsorum and bolbitis are slow growers not needing much nutrient uptake, i do not see the need to go strait to EI levels, but that's me ...

kadoxu makes a really good point asking you about your water hardness, as you are using CSM+B this has a week chelate to bind FE under high pH

Can you do some water testing and give us some values ?? particularly to dGH and dKH and pH strait from tap ??
 
kadoxu said:
The first thing I usually ask when I see Iron deficiency symptoms is "how hard is your water?"

If the water is hard, you may need Iron with a different chelator.
Click to expand...

Hey, thanks for your comment.

Tap water I tested back in August 2016 was

NO3 - 5ppm
P04 - 0ppm
KH - 4
GH - 5
PH - not sure but should be 7ish

Tap water in my tank back then was..

NO3 - 10-20ppm
P04 - 1ppm
KH - 3
GH - 4
PH - not sure but should be 7ish

Not sure if this is considered hard water but from what I read, 3 KH and 4 GH is pretty good for a planted tank?


Nuno M. said:
Hey man nice looking tank ;)

The guys that came here to help made good points, but besides seeming that you have a large plant biomass, microsorum and bolbitis are slow growers not needing much nutrient uptake, i do not see the need to go strait to EI levels, but that's me ...

kadoxu makes a really good point asking you about your water hardness, as you are using CSM+B this has a week chelate to bind FE under high pH

Can you do some water testing and give us some values ?? particularly to dGH and dKH and pH strait from tap ??
Click to expand...

Hi Nuno, thanks for your response.

As mentioned to Kadoxu above, tap water and tank water should be in the "normal" range but have a look and let me know if you think otherwise.
I will check the tap water PH once I get home but I'm almost certain it's somewhere around 7
 
Too much light driving demand past what is available for plant's to draw from.Half estimative index may not be enough .
Increasing to full EI would /should see change fairly quickly if it is nutrient deficiency.
Leaves only CO2 or lighting.
 
roadmaster said:
Too much light driving demand past what is available for plant's to draw from.Half estimative index may not be enough .
Increasing to full EI would /should see change fairly quickly if it is nutrient deficiency.
Leaves only CO2 or lighting.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your comment.

You are right, something is out of balance, just need to find out what.

CO2 is highly unlikely because Im using a drop checker with 4dkh water, which gets to almost yellow but just to be sure I increased it even further until the fish was gasping for air. Then dialed back from there. Lots of pearling (notnjust after water changes)

I also have a surface skimmmer and good flow (2 externals) so I doubt its a co2 distribution issue either.

Cant be light unless 3 finnex is not enough for a 90x45x45cm tank.

So im only left with nutrients. I recently switched from EI to aquavitro and the plants started coming back. I was happy but the problem was I change too many things all at once so I cant pinpoint on what helped the cause! Haha so now Im back to EI dosing because honestly I want to be able to master it before I reset this tank and also because aquavitro products are not available here in Korea.

So I'll take your suggestion of increasing my EI to full levels, take pictures of the plants before/after and hopefully the members here can help me if any problems arise.

Sent from my SM-N910S using Tapatalk
 
Seoulstar said:
Hey, thanks for your comment.

Tap water I tested back in August 2016 was

NO3 - 5ppm
P04 - 0ppm
KH - 4
GH - 5
PH - not sure but should be 7ish

Tap water in my tank back then was..

NO3 - 10-20ppm
P04 - 1ppm
KH - 3
GH - 4
PH - not sure but should be 7ish

Not sure if this is considered hard water but from what I read, 3 KH and 4 GH is pretty good for a planted tank?
Click to expand...

I would say that what you have is really soft water. You should be ok with most Iron sources (getting a chelated source instead of gluconate will always be safer, though). I'm not sure, but you may need to worry about calcium and/or magnesium deficiencies if your plants show symptoms.

Don't ever use your drop checker to see how much CO2 is on the tank, it should only be used to confirm what you know, not to tell you how much CO2 you have. Check you KH and PH when CO2 is on instead.
(I've been posting this chart 1 to 2 times a day here in the forum! :lol: )
co2_ph_kH_chart.png

You want to have around 30ppm of CO2 in the water when your lights are on. So with your 3dKH, your PH should drop to around 6.5 when CO2 is on.
 
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