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Maidenhead Aquatics 425 litre tank

I like the red leaves on the Rotala you mentioned and the P. Helferi looks really good so will plan on them next and take out some of the long leaved stem plants.
 
Also, if your CO2 technique is good, check out Blyxa japonica, Limnophilia Aromatica and Staurogyne. They will revolutionize the fabric and textures of your scape.

Cheers,
 
If anything the Co2 is a little on the high side. I am just fine tuning it a little lower as the gill movement on the fish seem to be a little rapid to me. The indicator is still green though not yellow.
 
Just because CO2 is too high for fish, it tells you nothing about whether it's sufficient for plants. CO2 is toxic to fish but is a basic necessity for plants. If fish struggle but the DC color does not go more yellow then this normally indicates an issue with flow or distribution, or it might mean the lighting is too high, any combination of these.

Cheers,
 
Ok I will keep my eye on it and try some different things. The flow seems good with a strong current throughout the tank with swaying plants at both ends of the tank. I am adding Co2 through an inline reactor an hour before lights on and an hour before lights off which are on for 6 hours a day. The intensity of light is just under 2 watt per litre but staggered so first hour is 1 watt per litre, the middle 4 hours 2 watt per litre and then 1 watt per litre for the last hour. I am dosing 90ml of EI a day for the 425 litres (30ml per 150 litres) Macro and Micro alternative days for 6 days and resting day before water chance.

50% water change every week and treating with 12.5 ml of Seachem Prime.
Temp is 25-26 degrees.

Not tested water at all since cycling.

I have not lost any of the 50 fish since starting the tank a few months ago and the plants have certainly improved since I first started.
 
Yet the DC has not gone more into the lime green color at lights on? Maybe I misunderstood what you said earlier. In any case, the plants I mentioned are more critical of CO2 technique than the ones you currently have, so try them and see what happens. Poor CO2 uptake efficiency is what determines if a plant is "difficult" or "easy". If they start melting then you'll have to make an adjustment.

Cheers,
 
I forgot to add the dropper colour. This was whilst draining the water during a water change and the Co2 hadn't been on for 17 hours:

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No point taking a photo now as it always takes a little time to settle after a 50% water change.
 
That was at 1pm this afternoon and the lights don't go on till 4pm and there is an hour of Co2 before the lights too so yes that's about the colour when the lights go on and it pretty much stays that colour 24 hours a day.
 
OK, well it's probably OK assuming the sample water is 4dKH. I would always suggest that you tanke pH samples at regular (1/2 hour) intervals before and during the photoperiod. A DC that shows no color changes is always a little suspect. Just have a look at the pH profile and it will tell you right away what's happening.

Cheers,
 
I will measure the PH as you say but won't be able to do that for another two weeks.
The fluid in the DC was fresh and dark blue on Monday and soon turns to green and stays there. I will keep you updated.
 
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