Moss Tree Hill

[Zedan]

The goal of this project is to create a relatively low maintenance aquascape inside this 13L vase (approx. 27cm x 27cm excluding the base).

The base is 4cm of Tropica Plant Growth Substrate, a peat base layer designed to reduce pH and release nutrients slowly. This is capped with 2cm of JBL ProScape Volcano Mineral, a highly porous volcanic rock intended to promote circulation, bacteria and nutrient supply.

More volcanic rock is used to elevate a driftwood Bonsai Tree. Christmas Moss has already been attached to the tree using superglue gel. A single Dragon Stone is placed in the shaded area under the tree.

Tropica Aquarium Soil Powder is a nutrient-rich, high CEC, all-in-one granular substrate which will complete the hardscape. A 3cm thick layer rises to 8cm, forming a hill at the back. More volcanic rock has been used to support the gradient but the soil depth reaches 5cm in some places. Four Anubias Petite are planted in the shaded area between the tree trunk and dragon stone.

Dwarf Hairgrass Eleocharis Acicularis Sp. Mini (from Tropica 1-2-Grow line) is planted in bunches of 3-10 at a depth of 1-3cm. Most of the carpet will receive mid-high light but the some of the DHG will be slightly shaded by the tree.​

I am using the Dry Start Method but I have read mixed reports of using DSM with hairgrass. In one month I will be going away for 25 days. The house will not be empty so spraying, dosing, and water changes can be carried out but the tank will need to be stable during this period as I will not be able to deal with any surprises. I have an established filter ready, but this tank will not receive pressurized CO2.


Please comment your opinion, should I continue the Dry Start Method or Flood immediately?

 

[Zedan]

Lighting is provided by a 12-16W Asta 20 Dimmable LED. The photoperiod is 12hrs during the DSM, but will be reduced to 6-8hrs when flooded.
The moss receives far too much light (becoming a hair algae farm when flooded) and blocks some of the light to the bottom.


A very low dosage of Easylife Easycarbo liquid carbon (gluteraldehyde) may be used but this seems to cause the moss to melt. Pressurized CO2 will not be used on this tank.


TNC Lite will fertilise the water column, dosed weekly.

 

[TBRO]

I have a lot of weeping moss so very similar to Christmas moss, doesn’t seem to be troubled by hair algae. Where as fissidens and Java moss get it in my big tank if they are not in high flow areas.

Weeping moss doesn’t seem to mind high light either. Emersed or submerged it just needs to be really wet.

I would try the dry start if your going away but just leave it on a window sill (no artificial light). If your in the northern hemisphere then it will get enough light without the moss drying out, this time of the year. Keep it humid with cling film. Only issue you might have is mould on the wood but this will go when submerged. If you can get someone to mist a couple of times a day with de-ionized water, even better.

Make sure the rhizome of the anubias isn’t buried or it will rot.

Good luck, nice layout. T




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[DutchMuch]

is the anubias rhizome in the substrate? cant tell from pic.

 

[Zedan]

I have a lot of weeping moss so very similar to Christmas moss, doesn’t seem to be troubled by hair algae. Where as fissidens and Java moss get it in my big tank if they are not in high flow areas.

Weeping moss doesn’t seem to mind high light either. Emersed or submerged it just needs to be really wet.

I would try the dry start if your going away but just leave it on a window sill (no artificial light). If your in the northern hemisphere then it will get enough light without the moss drying out, this time of the year. Keep it humid with cling film. Only issue you might have is mould on the wood but this will go when submerged. If you can get someone to mist a couple of times a day with de-ionized water, even better.

Make sure the rhizome of the anubias isn’t buried or it will rot.

Good luck, nice layout. T




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The moss doesn't seem too happy emersed and is whitening at the tips, possibly due to high light. It was previously adapted to submersed growth. I'm using cling film with a 20mm hold to breath, perhaps there is too much ventilation? What is the smallest recommended breathing hole?
I am in the UK. Why do you recommend natural light? I would expect it to be very inefficient at this time of year and certainly less optimal for growth vs LED.. care to elaborate?
I am spraying with water from my other tank, it's dechlorinated but otherwise normal hard tap water. Is that not ideal?

is the anubias rhizome in the substrate? cant tell from pic.

I would say the anubias rhizome are mostly resting on the surface, with possibly a little bit buried on the one with very short roots.

 

[TBRO]

Mostly I was trying to think of the most stable situation to leave it in, which would be emergant IMO. Yes moss can dry if not in contact with liquid water or very high humidity.

Winter sun won’t produce rapid growth but also desiccation will be much less of an issue. Even LEDs can be quite drying. You will still get growth.

Plants growing towards winter sun!

Spraying with tank water can lead to hard water marks on the glass and leaves. Might not be a massive issue if planning to flood soon. DI water can be purchased from supermarket (used for irons etc).

Main problem with flooding and then leaving it, without regular water changes and no filter, it might turn into an algae fest. If you have reliable help who will do the water changes then go for it. T


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[Zedan]

Mostly I was trying to think of the most stable situation to leave it in, which would be emergant IMO. Yes moss can dry if not in contact with liquid water or very high humidity.

Winter sun won’t produce rapid growth but also desiccation will be much less of an issue. Even LEDs can be quite drying. You will still get growth.

Plants growing towards winter sun!

Spraying with tank water can lead to hard water marks on the glass and leaves. Might not be a massive issue if planning to flood soon. DI water can be purchased from supermarket (used for irons etc).

Main problem with flooding and then leaving it, without regular water changes and no filter, it might turn into an algae fest. If you have reliable help who will do the water changes then go for it. T


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Perhaps I will try on the window sill then, or in the conservatory. Will fluctuating temperatures, particularly cold nights as the conservatory is not heated, pose a problem with the DSM? What is that vibrant light green plant in the bottom right of your photo?

Thanks for the tip, I bought a bottle of DI water today. I have mixed 500ml with 5ml of TNC Lite liquid fertilizer (recommended 1ml/10L but I can't imagine that's relevant with DSM) and will use that as my mister. I didn't realise DI water was available so easily from supermarkets, I have very hard water so might consider mixing DI water into my water changes. Presumably DI water does not need to be dechlorinated..?

I agree that DSM is probably more stable, my only fear is the dreaded mould and fungus!

 

[TBRO]

Would probably avoid the conservatory can get pretty cold. Should be fine in the house. Good luck, T


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[Zedan]

UPDATE:

I planted some more Eleocharis Acicularis Sp. Mini in bigger bunches of 10+ to give the carpet as much of a head start as possible. However, the leaves from this batch were beginning to yellow so let's see if they recover now that they are out of the 1-2-Grow pot.

I have also tilted the aquarium a little to prevent puddles forming at the front and to allow more moisture to reach the elevated areas.

I have noticed that if I nudge the tree during maintenance, it tilts and creates cracks in the substrate. I am hoping that this can be solved by compacting the substrate and perhaps adding a little more to support the tree on the hill.

Question, is it possible that the tree will float when I flood the tank? When it was previously submerged it is negatively buoyant but easily moved.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

I have mixed 500ml with 5ml of TNC Lite liquid fertilizer (recommended 1ml/10L but I can't imagine that's relevant with DSM) and will use that as my mister.

Because the plants aren't CO2 limited they can theoretically make use of more of the available nutrients, but you have to be careful with the strength of the fertiliser when you use it for a dry start.

In the tank you have the dilution effect of the large volume of water, but when you just mist the plant with the fertiliser mix you run the risk of <"fertiliser burn"> via osmosis.

cheers Darrel

 

[Zedan]

CO2 Question:

Is it worth getting a basic CO2 system to help the plants adapt when I flood the tank?

Will the inevitable melt (if CO2 is not injected) recover quickly, or is it worth a bit of kit to avoid it?

I don't plan to use CO2 long term.

Anyone with previous experience of DSM with DHG, I would love to hear your opinions!

 

[keano]

I did a DSM with baby tears, monte carlo, various moss with blender and yoghurt and DHG. All took fine with no melt, however that was with 2-3 bubbles per second from a fire extinguisher and light for 6 hours a day plus dosing. A low tech like this I may be wrong but i think the moss and DHG will be fine. The Anubias may melt and not sure if you would be better with it glued to the rock rather than the rhizome buried.

 

[Matt @ ScapeEasy]

Definately don't want the rhizomes of anubias burried, it will rot. Best attached to decor.

 

[Zedan]

2 WEEK UPDATE:

The Hairgrass is growing nicely. Especially in the well lit regions.

Roots have started establishing and runners are appearing.
A plastic straw with slits forms a drain from which a pipette can extract water to avoid puddles forming.

I am spraying almost everyday, mainly for the moss which is struggling.

 

[Ady34]

Looks great, did you add any extra lighting in the end?

 

[Zedan]

Looks great, did you add any extra lighting in the end?

Not yet. I don't have a suitable light but I will probably introduce one if the shady areas become significantly bare.

 

[Ady34]

Not yet. I don't have a suitable light but I will probably introduce one if the shady areas become significantly bare.

Was thinking it was growing in nicely as it is.
By the way that tree has a real charm about it, it looks like a tree, is really interesting and looks about a thousand times bigger than it actually is so a great sense of scale has been achieved.

 

[Zedan]

3 WEEK UPDATE:

The hairgrass continues to send runners and is spreading nicely. A few more rocks have been added and some Fissidens Fontanus has been place on the rocks and tree trunk to fill out the shaded area. I'm not particularly expecting Fissidens to do well emersed so I have saved plenty to try later.

The moss has been removed from the tree for a number of reasons. Firstly, it has been a constant struggle to get light to the carpet without burning the moss. This was also a problem when the tree was submersed so the tree will instead be covered with something that enjoys the high light at the top of the tank. The dying moss was also accruing spiderweb mould so today it was ripped out.

 

[Zedan]

9 WEEK UPDATE:

The scape has grown a lot while I was away. The hairgrass has spread well into the sparser regions and generally filled out a lot. However, some the hairgrass is beginning go yellow/brown. I have also noticed very small amounts of mold on a couple of the blades of hairgrass. I would like to continue the DSM to get the carpet as thick as possible and really reach all the nooks and crannies around the hardscape.

Questions:

1. What is the best way to treat the mold now, before it causes significant damage?

2. Can anyone suggest why the hairgrass started to die off?

 

[Zedan]

Flooding the tank this weekend. Planning to run DIY CO2 to help the plants adapt. Should I trim the hairgrass when flooding?