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New reactor question

Martin cape

Member
Joined
21 Dec 2012
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611
Location
Workington
Hi guys. I was using a ceramic diffuser which came on 3 hours before lights on and went off 2 hours before lights off.

Connected up my new reactor at the same bubble count but it was still blueish when lights came on. Does it take reactors longer to get the CO2 into the tank as it has to pretty much fully dissolve first?

I've changed the timing now to come on 4 hours before lights on and 3 hours before them off. What's everyone's thoughts?

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Will be interesting to see the answer mine comes on 6 hours before

ant
 
I think it just takes time. As it dissolves at the top of the reactor and has to travel to the bottom before going to the tank.

Thinks its more efficient though, it will dissolve it all as the gas can't escape in the reactor, only the tank.
 
It's a Sera 1000. I shouldn't have to up the bubble count really, they are supposed to be a lot more efficient than the ceramic diffusers. If anything, I thought I would have to lower the bubble count.

Unless its just taking the drop checker longer to react as the CO2 is more "dissolved" in the water than loads of little bubbles flying around and into the drop checker?

All plants are still photosynthesising at lights on.
 
It's possible that the in tank diffuser had bubbles being blown into your drop checker giving you false readings. I swapped an UP atmoiser from the filter out let to the inlet thinking I would use less CO2 - it didn't work out that way and I had to up my bubble count.
 
I reckon this reactor will be more accurate as, like you say, bubbles will have been getting blown into the checker, popping and affecting the colour. Ill see what colour checker is at lights on tomorra. May change it to 5 hours before lights on if its not green enough.
 
If you are starting up the gas 5 hours before lights on then something is not working properly! Just think how much more gas you will be using compared to 99% of folk who switch on 2 hours before.
The confusing issue for me is you say your plants are fine but you want to add more gas?
Drop checkers are a simple guide - the plants tell the truth.
 
I may be too obsessed with the drop checker colour. We're just told that the colour should be lime green at lights on.

If I started it even an hour earlier, it would be going off an hour earlier too. It's lime green for about 4 of the 6 hour light period anyway.

Plenty oxygen bubbles coming off the plants. Ill take note tomorra when the lights come on.
 
Hi Martin. That's definitely not right having it come on 3hours earlier. I used tp use one of these sera reactors myself and actually used less bubbles per second and co2 came on 2 hours before lights. Its definitely had all the air bled out of it correctly before you started the co2 for rthe first time hasn't it???

As foxfish says if all's well in the tank, plants are fine and pearling then i wouldn't worry to much about the drop checker as it's only a guide.
 
Yea. Took me a while of thinking to bleed the damn thing lol. Just turned it upside down :). A lot quieter once I done that lol. Could well be old solution in drop checker. I'm sure I read somewhere they can take a little longer to get the co2 in there. But, once co2 finished, it doesn't take long for the air (ie co2) in the reactor to leave the chamber. So it must be getting there.

I am using a spray bar facing slightly downwards along the back of the tank and the drop checker is a couple inches below the bar.
 
It's definitely working by the sounds of it and they are really good reactors as long as your careful not to break the connection to the co2 tubing. Its very fragile and solved by leaving a non return valve and piece of tubing connected to the reactor so you never have to remove that bit.
It could be that you need to change the drop checked fluid and also the placement of them.
 
Another tip from a user of this reactor is to put a little bit of vaseline on the threads of the main reactor body. One down side of this reactor is no one seems to know where to get a new rubber seal should it be broke. CO2 has an habit of perishing plastic and rubber making it brittle hence co2 tubing being differentfrom airline tubing. When I used diffusers placed underneath a koralia the last couple of inches of cable would stiffen up and not be as flexible as the rest which was outside the tank. The vaseline keeps the rubber seal a bit more flexible and also aids when you need to take the reactor to bits. When it has been left for long periods the reactor body is quite difficult to unscrew with little you can grip. Like Alistair mentioned when unscrewing the body keep well away from the co2 inlet. I have the mobile number for the sera rep so I may give her a call and see if she can get hold of the o rings. Best to have spare and not need than damage it and not have one!
Regarding co2 diffusion, I was in the same train of thought as yourself. There is definitely a big difference when using one of these compared to a diffuser. It was highlighted to me over Christmas hols when I would leave my lights on for decorative effect until quite late at night( sometimes 2 AM or later) That's drink for ya :D I noticed that even though my co2 switched off about 7.30 in the evening my drop checker would just get yellower and yellower even to the early hours so I started knocking it off a bit earlier. Doing some PH tests with a PH pen and standard liquid kit I found that my PH at lights on was around 6.2 and dropped to about 6.4/6.5 at lights off so indeed the co2 was not just getting higher and higher like the drop checker suggested.

Even 4 hours before switching lights on just and so got the drop checker a green colour for lights on. My conclusion was that as we already know the drop checker is displaying 2/3 hours behind the actual levels and as you have noticed due to the co2 give or take being fully dissolved before it leaves the reactor the drop checker seems IMO to react a lot slower than it would if there was a fine mist of bubbles floating around the tank which is what you would expect with them entering the DC.
Switching over to the reactor from diffusers has taught me that firstly they do indeed need to switch on a bit earlier than a diffuser as you don't have the misty bubbles on the leaf surfaces which work for the plants quicker than co2 being dissolved in the water column and secondly that drop checkers do take a little bit longer to react to the changes. The combination of the two gives the impression that co2 needs to be on/off earlier. Generally people work to two hours before but if you use the drop checker as your guide it will give the impression 4 hours is more realistic. Doing real time PH tests is the best way to check your co2 profile as long as you do them properly and take into account other acids that could be in the tank other than the co2.

One thing I did also notice was the Sera type long term co2 drop checkers, although not as pleasing on the eye as the glass type ones did react quicker to co2 changes. To summarise diffusers give a false early reading and reactors give a false late reading. Just use the drop check to make sure your gas is on. :)
 
Everything is fine pal. Plants are producing oxygen bubbles half hour after lights on I noticed so it must all be fine. Upped my bubble count to about 5 bps now. Fish seem happy, drop checker goes very lime green at the end so is all good.

Took the internal filter out too. Running external now through heater, then to the reactor and out through spray bar. Got 2 Koralia Nano's either side to increase flow.

Trying to get a carpet of HC going in the substrate. Posing quite difficult at the min.
 
Interesting thread, I have been pondering about using a reactor instead of an inline diffuser. I'll be honest I don't like the look of a tank full of bubbles even if they are tiny.:thumbup:
 
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