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Nightmare Algae/Incubo alghe!
- Thread starter max73
- Start date
hypnogogia
Member
È un forum inglese, quindi per ottenere il meglio, dovrai sforzarti di usare l'inglese.
eccomi ho allestito un acquario di 80.40.40 a gennaio con oase 600 thermo light chihiros wrgb2 60cm.filtro bombola co2 ricaricabile.all'interno ho messo lapilli vulcanici in calzini e coperti dal fondo ada amazonian v2.all'inizio avevo un periodo senza luce per evitare le alghe ma poi sono arrivate. le luci sono accese dalle 15 alle 22. la co2 parte alle 10 del mattino. metto le foto. ho provato easylife algexit ma niente e non ripeto niente.
here I am I set up an 80.40.40 aquarium in January with oase 600 thermo light chihiros wrgb2 60cm. rechargeable co2 cylinder filter. inside I put volcanic lapilli in socks and covered by the ada amazonian v2 bottom. at the beginning I had a period without light to avoid the algae but then they arrived. the lights are on from 3pm to 10pm. the co2 starts at 10am. I'll post the photos. I tried easylife algexit but nothing and I won't repeat anything.
here I am I set up an 80.40.40 aquarium in January with oase 600 thermo light chihiros wrgb2 60cm. rechargeable co2 cylinder filter. inside I put volcanic lapilli in socks and covered by the ada amazonian v2 bottom. at the beginning I had a period without light to avoid the algae but then they arrived. the lights are on from 3pm to 10pm. the co2 starts at 10am. I'll post the photos. I tried easylife algexit but nothing and I won't repeat anything.
Last edited by a moderator:
hypnogogia
Member
Please read the guidelines for Algae help!
Dear Member Please give as many details as possible regarding your aquarium set-up, when requiring advice/help! The above will be posted at the start of each help request. Why do we ask these questions? It will stop the member posting multiple times, plus adviser's don't need to scroll through...
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hypnogogia
Member
please provide the information requested in post 7 above, and use English. People here are very willing to help, but it's an English speaking forum.
aquarium 80.40.40 128 liters .7 months started.oase 600 filter loaded with matrix seachem.lighting chihiros wrgb2 light duration 7 hours. volcanic lapillus substrate with ada Amazonia v2 .co2 on top with drop cheker complete apt3 fertilizer. change water every 15 days plants I don't know the names
SteveMid
Member
on the maintenance side maybe shift to weekly water changes. I have always found floating plants to help - you can always remove later once your tank has matured.
Wookii
Member
How much are you dosing? Your test kits - if correct (big if) - suggest you are not dosing enough nutrients as they are showing zero quantities residual in the water column.
Hi all,
They are quite different otherwise in concept. The <"Estimative Index" (EI)"> relies on the mineral nutrients being non-limiting and the <"Duckweed Index"> uses the health and leaf colour of a floating plant as an indication of when nutrients are required.
These were developed because there are some difficulties involved in <"getting accurate values"> for nitrate (NO3-) etc
cheers Darrel
It is a <"bit strange with ppm TDS">. We actually measure the conductivity (in microS) and this is a measure of all ions (charged particles) in solution. Rather than there being <"an absolute value">, everyone <"will start with a different datum value"> and then you just look for changes. Basically if the TDS value continually rises you need to change more water.
We've developed <"two different methods for fertiliser management">, that don't rely on water testing.
They are quite different otherwise in concept. The <"Estimative Index" (EI)"> relies on the mineral nutrients being non-limiting and the <"Duckweed Index"> uses the health and leaf colour of a floating plant as an indication of when nutrients are required.
These were developed because there are some difficulties involved in <"getting accurate values"> for nitrate (NO3-) etc
cheers Darrel
MichaelJ
Member
In addition to what Darrel says above, a good rough guideline to establish a reasonable whereabout of your expected TDS is to add some WC water to a small bucket and add the weekly relative amount of fertilizer and measure the TDS of that. For instance if your tank is 100 L and you change 50 L weekly and add 3 ml of fertilizer per day: Add 5 L of WC water (remineralized RO or tap - whatever you use), add (5/50 * 3 * 7) 2 ml of fertilizer and measure the TDS. Of course this won't account for uptake and unavoidable background waste and fertilizer, but it should give you a pretty good baseline of what your TDS should be around before each water change. If that number comes out at say 150 ppm on your TDS meter, thats what the TDS should be hovering around over time. If you see a gradual uptick (or variation) over time you can be assured that you have a combination of varying tap water TDS (if your using tap), accumulation of fertilizers, decomposed plant/fish/food waste, leaching hardscape/substrate, overfeeding etc. In my own tanks my TDS is rarely outside 10% of my target.
Cheers,
Michael
