Thank you Mark - I knew I could rely on you for some constructive criticismsaintly said:lovely ray.
do you think the path could "sweep "more. looks a tad clinical?
Ray said:Also the first snail arrived - where the blazes did he come from?! I was so careful!
Ray said:Thank you Mark - I knew I could rely on you for some constructive criticism
.Ray said:Originally I wanted the path to perform a switchback and vanish back behind its own screen so that you could never see down the whole thing and got an infinite feeling
Ray said:Also I think the back left hand half needs more backdrop. Not sure what
Thanks Jay. Perhaps I should call this scape Primevil! or Primevil Forest Not sure I'll win any competitions with a title like that mind!jay said:Still loving that wood, although I did start to think it might be a bit... aggressive looking. Almost mean hehe.
But I think the plant choice is going to go well with it. The word 'prehistoric' is in my head
From back right to left we have: Cyperus Helfrei, Cryptocoryne Balansae, Crypotocoryne Retrospiralis. Actually back left was pegged for Blyxia, but as you know that melted in the post. I do have about 100 Blyxa seeds dried on a sheet of kitchen paper that I could try to grow, or maybe something else. Possibilities:saintly said:well the c heferi or is it nana>? will cover the right hand side but IMO you dont want to all of a sudden start with another plant on the left. tricky one.(for me anyway) personally i can see small leaved stems in this set up. tight and bushy! well pruned stemsRay said:Also I think the back left hand half needs more backdrop. Not sure what
Ray said:A nice asian stem - Limnophilia aromatica?
also would be nice especially when starts to spread. i personally dont like grass foregrounds.Ray said:a stand of a longer Elocharis
Hi Aaron. For the TPN, I have a 200L tank and I am targeting 20ppm NO3 as per EI standards. If I do a 90% water change I am at 0ppm give or take. So I need 70ml to hit the target. 20ml is how much I've been adding daily all these weeks and doing 2x 90% water changes a week. The algae is testament to the fact it is not enough. As for the blackout, I will quote what ceg4048 told me in a PM (trust this is OK to share your wisdom Clive )aaronnorth said:didnt think you were supposed to dose when doing a blackout, as the plats wont use them as there is no light?
also with the TPN+ dosing, you are adding enough, 70ml is way to much
5ml per 50l adds 6ppm of NO3 so 20ml would of been fine.
I have BGA in the sand and that is indicative of low nitrates. I can't say I fully understand the science but I trust Clive and I know I need strong plants when the lights come back on and I think dosing in the dark should help. No light and high nitrates should sort the BGA out at least.ceg4048 said:Anyway, forget about cloudy water. When you have fixed you problems the milkiness will go away. Believe me that is the least of your worries. CO2 plus nutrients will feed the plants and generate oxygen stabilizing the bacterial populations. The milkiness occurs in part because of the bacterial population crash. The bodies die and contribute to the cloudiness as well as to NH4. This is another thing people go crazy over and I can't figure out why. The cloudiness is just a visual indicator of why the tank has problems. Fix your plants and you'll fix your cloudiness.
Oedogonium and Rhizoclonium are easy to fix. Just dose like crazy and they will never come back. You're lucky it's not BBA because that is really tough to get rid of.
Do a 100% WC to begin with then refill, dose and cover the tank. Do a 3 or even a 4 day blackout but dose at night in pitch black at 2 day intervals. At the end, 100% water change 1/2 lights if possible and continue dosing and make sure CO2 is good. You should notice a difference.
I actually picked it up for about 50 pence in a Malaysian hardware store - when I saw it I thought exactly what you did. Sorry I can't help more than that...Fred Dulley said:What is the clip that is holding the hose in place? I could do with one of those... thanks