_Maq_
Member
I'd suggest using just magnesium sulfate (MgSO4). Ideally, Mg : Ca should be about 1 : 3 [by weight].
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RO system, worth the "hassle"?
- Thread starter riioKen
- Start date
In a non RO water this can't be really measured right?
I mean, I know that in water report of 2 month ago, the Ca Mg ratio was 9:1
If I decide to use MgSO4 (which I already have) how I know when to use, and how much?
_Maq_
Member
Yes, Ca and Mg specific tests are rare and expensive.
The ultimate judge are your plants themselves. Magnesium is essential for chlorophyll. (While iron is essential for creation of chlorophyll.) So, if your plants are not green enough, one of possible reasons may be relative deficiency of magnesium. Relative means that magnesium is present but it's uptake by plants is hindered by other elements, in this case calcium.
True, I have some curling on hygrophila polysperma
I'm dosing masterline golden AiO.
I think that my plant are green, the rotala h'ra was orange (and had black stripes on older leaves, due NPK deficiency (?)) in my old tank, now it is completely green (due lower light intensity and photoperiod duration imo) but very healthy from top to bottom
This is what I'm afraid of, and that's why I was thinking into RO system. In some months during the year, my Ca is 80ppm and Mg 8.5ppm.
Tank photo added, take note, tank is 3 month old, 2 months dark start without plants and only filter and soil. I planted 1 month ago, 70% were in vitro
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Wookii
Member
Just to add to @_Maq_'s advice above, if you use Magnesium Sulphate (MgSO4), and Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) for your remineralisation of pure RO it makes things very easy for dry dosing (assuming you don't add any tap water), as approximately equal weight of each salt will yield a 3:1 ratio of Ca:Mg.
The total level you dose to remineralise your water change water will depend on whether you wish to keep any shrimp in the tank or not. In the absence of any shrimp you don't need a great deal. If you have shrimp you ne to get up around 5dGH give or take, to ensure sufficient calcium in the water column.
Right now I have a nano fish, Dutch style "inspired" 330L (true are 280L) tank. I have for now only 1 amano and around 25 fish (cpd, ember tetra, pygmy and otos), if I ever buy a Ro unit, I will definitely go for CRS (will they be compatible with low EI style nutrition? Like APT or Masterline?). Afaik, they need GH 4-6 KH 0-2.
I already have MgSO4, I need to buy some calcium powder in case I decide to go with ro route. But my reservoir is only 65L, I can't go bigger than that. Will be enough 65L WC weekly? Or should I do 2 WC weekly?
Wookii
Member
Caridina are more sensitive and trickier to keep than Neocaridina. I've never been able to keep them in a CO2 injected tank - though I've never specifically had CRS - but I believe some people have got them to breed in a CO2 injected tank, so YMMV.
If the tank is CO2 injected and EI dosed, I would be doing two 65 litre changes at least - more likely three.
Remember that when you do split consecutive water changes, you are replacing not only the old tank water but some of the previous new tank water you just added. So when you change the second 65 litres, you are effectively changing out 23% of the 65 litres you just changed, so the effective total water change is only 115 litres (41%). If you did a third consecutive water change, you'd be effectively changing 153 litre (55%).
Yeah, I know that but I heard that CO2 isn't problem for them, or better, pH swing due CO2 injection isn't a problem for them (if the KH remain stable during the pH swing, the shirmp doesn't feel change in pH)
Yeah, makes sense, specifically due nitrate build up?
In the end, if I buy a Ro system, I need MgSO4, CaCi2, TDS/EC (I will buy myaqua 1900, due to efficiency, it's rated 1-1.5:1, the tds come from the ro unit) and KH-GH test?
For the first times doing a WC, my KH and GH is 3-4 - 6-7, if I reminalize my ro water to GH 6 and KH 3, then to GH 5.5 and KH 3, then GH 5 and KH 2. Considering that I have still half tank with GH 7 and KH 3.5, should be a "nice" acclimation?
Which is the best way to achieve a 100% ro water tank, starting from a 100% tap water tank (tank tds is ~ 230ppm)?
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Hi all,
If you want to add divalent ion hardness (dGH), without adding any carbonates (dKH), you would <"need to add remineralising salt">, @Wookii's & @_Maq_'s suggestion is where I would start for this.
cheers Darrel
I agree with that as well, we can't see them, but a stable, patchy environment with low nutrient conditions are likely to maintain <"maximal microbial diversity"> (but <"relatively low microbial biomass">) and I'm pretty sure that is what you want.
<"You can use tap water">, @Geoffrey Rea does, and so do I. You can either use a <"conductivity datum range"> or the <"snail shell index"> as a measure of how much to remineralise.
If you want to add divalent ion hardness (dGH), without adding any carbonates (dKH), you would <"need to add remineralising salt">, @Wookii's & @_Maq_'s suggestion is where I would start for this.
cheers Darrel
_Maq_
Member
If you buy a RO (+DI !) system, you'd better learn complete mineralization/fertilization with individual chemicals. This is where the big fun begins!
"RO system, worth the "hassle"?"
yes"Which is the best way to achieve a 100% ro water tank, starting from a 100% tap water tank (tank tds is ~ 230ppm)?"
It's never going to be 100% RO unless you start over. Two back to back large water changes ~90% will get it close enough.
Sorry @_Maq_ I'm a bit inexperienced
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Materiali filtranti naturali, senza additivi chimici. Prezzo: € 299,99. 45 recensioni. Spese di spedizione gratis. Consegna in 2 giorni.
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This one has DI, or there something more to add?
Got it, it's "deionized" part
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Yeah, I'm going in that direction (with a 300L tank, Dutch inspired means around 50€ of fertilization every 2 months with commercial fertilizers). Right now I have all the salts needed (KH2PO4, KNO3, MgSO4, K2SO4, Fe DTPA, E202 and I have just bought micro mix from a guy here)
_Maq_
Member
I don't see any source of calcium. With KNO3 the sole source of nitrogen you'll always overdose potassium. Also, you have no source of alkalinity (I'd suggest CaCO3; you'll probably want some alkalinity if injecting CO2), and if you seek perfection, you'll need some ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4Cl, urea, a.o.).
Wookii
Member
MichaelJ
Member
Not sure I would go with CaCO3 as you will raise both dGH and dKH/Alkalinity (as you obviously know). For a tad of Alkalinity in an injected tank say ~1 dKH and say 4 dGH (as OP wish to keep shrimps) I would go with a combo of CaCO3 and CaSO4/MgSO4 ...
On a side note: I wouldn't use CaCl2 unless you're pre-batching, but rather use CaSO4 instead as it will result in a lower TDS (EC) for the same level of Ca. And S in relative abundance appears to be preferable over Cl.
Cheers,
Michael
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I meant about fertilization, not for RO. I need to buy all the things needed to remineralize ro (and an ro system lol).
I need something for raise GH and KH
_Maq_
Member
If there's very small alkalinity and you aim to inject, say, 20 mg/L CO2, you'll push pH too low.
Discussions about preferability of SO4 or Cl sometimes appear. I've failed to find an argument which would persuade me to prefer one to another. You think chlorides are worse than sulfates? Why?
Wookii
Member
I run all my CO2 injected tanks with zero carbonates, without any notable issues for plants and live stock (that my amateur eyes can spot anyway).
I usually run with a higher GH for shrimp and dose ferts of course, so perhaps other elements such as phosphates provide some buffering preventing the pH getting too low?
I will be monitoring pH in a couple of my tanks shortly, just for personal interest, so I can reply back on my main tank which is zero carbonates and 15-20ppm CO2 injected.
