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RO Unit recommendations

Paul Kettless

Member
Joined
17 Aug 2015
Messages
349
Location
Lowestoft
Hi,

After some of my recents post I have been thinking long and hard about an RO Unit, and the benefits that it will give to my soon to be set up. I think if I start with tap water, I am going to want to make the move sooner or later so it might as well be right from the start.

I live in Lowestoft, Suffolk so we have very hard water here, and I have been reading that units have to work overtime in hard water areas and are prone to blockages and poor performance. My system will be approx 160 litres im guessing after displacement, so I a going to need something that will produce 80 litres or so for the 50% weekly water change.

There does not seem to be much difference in price between a 100 and 200 gpd unit, and I understand that the bigger the unit the less waste it will produce. There are also a multitude of different stage filters, and it seems that 3 stage without DI resin makes Life simpler and that the DI resin does not last long in hard water areas. I can see the benefits of using a pump version.

Can anyone recommend a fairly decent unit, that wont kill the already over spent budget, but is also not going to cut corners on the job that it needs to perform. I am seeing them advertised from as little as £50 on bay of e, and right up to £450.

Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Paul
 
I'm really happy with my Vyair 100gpd pumped unit,usually can do 25lts in just over an hour temperature dependant as I run mine off my outside tap.
Not far from you (just outside Bungay so similar water) and I use their colour change resin which lasts a fair while considering the hardness of the water here and the fact I'm running off around 350lts a week.
Just looked on the Spotless Water website and they will have a filling station in Lowestoft soon so might be worth waiting for that.
When you sign up and get your fob you get a fair amount free to start with,after that cost is around 3.5p a litre and they guarantee 0 tds.
 
I'm really happy with my Vyair 100gpd pumped unit,usually can do 25lts in just over an hour temperature dependant as I run mine off my outside tap.
Not far from you (just outside Bungay so similar water) and I use their colour change resin which lasts a fair while considering the hardness of the water here and the fact I'm running off around 350lts a week.
Just looked on the Spotless Water website and they will have a filling station in Lowestoft soon so might be worth waiting for that.
When you sign up and get your fob you get a fair amount free to start with,after that cost is around 3.5p a litre and they guarantee 0 tds.
That's good to know, I have contacted spotless water but they have not confirmed when either of the local stations to me will be opening.

I have the opportunity of a second hand unit on this site but its only a 50gpd unit and I'm wondering if it's man enough.
 
I used a 50GPD at work for years, had a booster pump fitted, and small storage tank, tap PSI was never went above 1.0 PSI but never used it to it's fully potential as we just use what was needed to run autoclaves and other medical devices. Never had to check the ppm as one machine had a ppm limit before it spat it's dummy out. The ROembrane lasted well over 2 years and only replaced it when when the DI Resin only lasted a few weeks. If using DI Resin better/cheaper to refill cartrades yourself
 
I used a 50GPD at work for years, had a booster pump fitted, and small storage tank, tap PSI was never went above 1.0 PSI but never used it to it's fully potential as we just use what was needed to run autoclaves and other medical devices. Never had to check the ppm as one machine had a ppm limit before it spat it's dummy out. The ROembrane lasted well over 2 years and only replaced it when when the DI Resin only lasted a few weeks. If using DI Resin better/cheaper to refill cartrades yourself
Thanks for this, I went through and bought @soggybongo Seems as though it will do the job upon your advice 👍
 
@MirandaB as we appear to have similar water living so close together, what do you use to buffer your RO, and do you use a percentage in your tank of full RO. would also be interested to know what you use for ferts and the doses you use for those also.
 
@Paul Kettless I usually do around a 60/40 ro/tap mix for the majority of tanks which gives me a middle ground for most of the species of fish I keep.
As virtually all my tanks are planted any Nitrates added back from the tap water are of no concern to me :)
Only a couple of tanks are currently high tech and they're only small so I use Vimi all in one/Vimi all in red but since Brexit it's more tricky to get hold of as the 2 UK stockists have stopped doing it by the looks of things so may have to go back to ei dosing with powders.
 
I use Vimi all in one/Vimi all in red but since Brexit it's more tricky to get hold of

we should be able to get a clone of those products 'I think', if your interested?
The data figures are slightly unclear with their use of full stops and commas in the ppm values for the composition

1615712033920.png

the Fe DTPA : Fe EDTA is unknown from the data also
 
I would be very interested @Zeus. Tried a few all in ones and this one seems to work best for me both in low and high tech tanks,the cost is getting prohibitive now though as buying direct from their website the postage has shot up and I can't justify £20 on postage!
Did manage to source some on Amazon but the all in red is much more expensive so just got the all in one.
 
Data used- used the % of composition as it integrates well in the IFC calculator
1615718184579.png


Dose Vimi AIO
1615718435942.png

Dose Vimi AIO red
1615718488087.png




Initial results if dosed for high light and high planted (needs double/triple checking)
1615716989158.png


Also it is one for the few that contains Cobalt (Co) and one of the very few that contain Nickel (Ni)

1615717113052.png

1615717163589.png


Quite interesting to see the differences in the trace elements between the AIO and AIO Red.

My initial thoughts are this 'Vimi' is a a pretty comprehensive AIO thats well suited for tanks with 100% RO water,( would be interesting to hear input from @dw1305 , @X3NiTH and @Hanuman)

If doing a clone adding Ni IMO would be advisable, Co maybe 😬, but getting a trace mix salt with all the elements off the shelf is tricky, but a bit of DIY trace mix is doable also ;)

If using 100% RO water I can't see the need for using Fe DTPA either as it shouldn't be needed as the pH should be in the range to suit Fe EDTA well
 
The data figures are slightly unclear with their use of full stops and commas in the ppm values for the composition

1615712033920-png.png
A lot of countries use decimal commas and period separators for thousands, while UK and US use decimal points and comma separators for thousands. So, swap the commas and periods and it will be more recognisable. e.g. K is 23,000 (twenty three thousand) and Ni is 1.25 (one and a quarter).
 
A lot of countries use decimal commas and period separators for thousands, while UK and US use decimal points and comma separators for thousands. So, swap the commas and periods and it will be more recognisable. e.g. K is 23,000 (twenty three thousand) and Ni is 1.25 (one and a quarter).
Thats what I was thinking, but found the % composition which was easier to work with in the IFC calculator, thanks for the input all the same :thumbup:
 
Hi Paul,
I am intrigued as Reef keeper myself. From your introduction I assume you have or are still with a Reef set up.
As you are enquiring about R/O unit I use a 3 stage compact system a 50GPD finerfilters. The system requires a minimum of 40PSI or 3 Bar work. The membrane will last between 1-3 years depending on water Hardness. The filter requires changing every six months. So..The system here I use on 273litre set up includes the bottom sump.So..for your 160 litre this should be more than adequate to cover your water changes.
Also pending what live stock set up you are due to do, go low Tec as they say to start with, research as much when advancing to High Tec better to have good understanding. Horses for coarses as we say.
I myself came to join UKaps purely for 5yr old granddaughter who now into fishkeeping.
 
I got vimi all in red because I thought it might be lower in nitrates compared to other all in one fertilisers. ( I have a lot of live breeders in my tank so don't need too much nitrate)
But I've noticed that my tank tds rises by 20ppm after each dose compared to about 2 ppm for tropica specialised. The ppm drops on the tank quickly during the day after the vimi dose though.
@Zeus. where did you get the nitrogen figure for all in red above?
I'm guessing the tropica dose must have urea or some non ionic form of nitrogen since it has lower tds readings.
 
Hi all,
I got vimi all in red because I thought it might be lower in nitrates compared to other all in one fertilisers.
It is definitely low in nitrate, my personal view would be stick with a complete mix. It could be <"VIMI AIO"> if you don't mind paying the <"mark-up"> on liquid fertilisers. The "VIMI Red" blurb is quite entertaining:
...Liquid, easily absorbed complex fertilizer meant to nourish plants in aquariums with additional CO2 supply and intense lighting. The composition of fertilizers is specially balanced to reveal the red colors of red plants......
So basically if you starve your plants of nitrogen <"they will appear redder">, because they don't have much chlorophyll to mask the anthocyanin. It is making a plus point out of a negative and for some reason <"werewolves"> and <"IT departments"> come to mind.

I'm going to have a go at this (for humans):
....... <"Accentuate your natural pallor">, our special iron free diet will give you ivory allure.......
......... I have a lot of live breeders in my tank so don't need too much nitrate)
But I've noticed that my tank tds rises by 20ppm after each dose compared to about 2 ppm for tropica specialised. The ppm drops on the tank quickly during the day after the vimi dose though.
The easiest way to remove the nitrate (NO3-), the nitrate from any fertiliser addition and from the aerobic oxidation of ammonia, is by <"having floating plants">. They aren't CO2 limited and are capable of removing a lot of fixed nitrogen, most of the aquarium literature <"vastly underestimates"> the potential of plant/microbe systems to remove nutrients.
I'm guessing the tropica dose must have urea or some non ionic form of nitrogen since it has lower tds readings.
It does, because the TDS meter is really measuring electrical conductivity it doesn't measure any non-ions, like urea (CO(NH2)2).

cheers Darrel
 
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@Zeus. where did you get the nitrogen figure for all in red above?
From data/PDFs supplied/published/found in historical posts by the various companies, some of it was hard to find, the worse sin is for many ferts is there is no data to be found and they ignore your requests for it :rolleyes:- the the loose terms of 'complete' , 'all your plants needs' etc etc. Would you buy a car without going though the tech details? I normally now more about the car than the sales team, but that may be just me 🤣
 
Ivory allure! I had low iron problems until I increased my liquid fertiliser to daily, and I can't say I like the ivory & green vein look on my plants older leaves!
but to prevent wastage i'm going to alternate between vimi all in red and Tropica specialised nutrition every 2nd day.
At the moment my nitrate is fine for my fish (ranging 20-40ppm) but I was going to get some amano shrimp & I heard 20ppm nitrate is their upper limit.
 
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