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Roma 240 Planted Tank

Neil Blowfield

Neil Blowfield

Member
Joined
13 Aug 2015
Messages
30
Location
Leicester
Need some help with the tank please to see if am doing something wrong or should change anything.
Am currently 31 days in to cycling the planted tank and the readings are as follows: PH 7.4, AMM 0.25ppm, NITRI 0ppm, NITRA 40-80ppm, GH 13, KH 8.
The API test kit is good but hard to read sometimes so have attached a photo also

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I am water changing 25-50% twice a week and the last two changes have added 10 and 25 litres of RO respectively (with tap water) to try to bring the GH down but it is not happening.

I am also not adding Ammonia as per advice from PFK magazine as the plants would produce a level of Ammonia to aid the tank cycling & adding more would produce an Algae bloom? Do my levels look like it is cycling or am I making a pigs ear of this?

Am also noticing what I think is Algae building on rocks and leaves, pics attached. Lights/Co2 back down to 5 hours from 6 and will clean rocks later with a toothbrush and trim brown leaves if better to do so also? Dosing EI ferts as per instruction.

dbd28431013eaf7df731a1c6ec44cdd1.jpg
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Any help/advice very appreciated, thanks

Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk
 
Sorry, here are some other details also.

This is my first attempt at an Aquascape planted tank by the way.
The tank is a Fluval Roma 240 with standard lights, heater and 306 filter.

The substrate is JBL Aquabasis plus & Manado (rinsed in v.hot water first)
The hardscape is made up of Redmoor wood x 3 & several pieces of Seiryu stone.
My plant list is as follows; Vallisneria spiralis, Ludwigia perennis, Echinoderms bleheri/barthii, Cryptocoryne wendtii/nevellii, Bacopa caroliniana, Hygrophila augustifolia, Eleocharis parvula, Pogostemon helferi, Anubias Nana and Christmas moss.

I am dosing EI ferts as per their instruction, have a Koralia 900l/hour power head for flow and a Colombo CO2 set at about 3 bubbles/second (recently increased)
The tank temp is approx 28° & am cycling the tank at the moment just simply with the plants. (after advice from PFK) I was looking to add some shrimp after approx 4 weeks if the levels are OK obviously and then fish gradually at 1-2 week intervals after this (after advice from PFK)
I am also changing 25% of the water twice a week for the first 3-4 weeks and then it will be once a week - using prime for this also.
The tap water levels are (after 24 hours)
PH - 8,
AMM - 0.25ppm
NITRI - 0ppm
NITRA - 5ppm
KH - 8
GH - 12
Tank water levels on Day 16 are
PH - 7.6
AMM - 0.25ppm
NITRI - 0ppm
NITRA - 40 - 80ppm
KH - 9
GH - 12

This post was my first post on the PFK forum but not getting any replies so thought would try you guys for help. Many thanks

Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk
 
Hi all,
Neil Blowfield said:
I am also not adding Ammonia as per advice from PFK magazine as the plants would produce a level of Ammonia to aid the tank cycling & adding more would produce an Algae bloom? Do my levels look like it is cycling or am I making a pigs ear of this?
Click to expand...
We prefer not adding ammonia, and we aren't very big on test kits. Have a look at <"Will fishless cycling...."> (and links).
Neil Blowfield said:
Am also noticing what I think is Algae building on rocks and leaves, pics attached. Lights/Co2 back down to 5 hours from 6 and will clean rocks later with a toothbrush and trim brown leaves if better to do so also?
Click to expand...
Definitely remove the algae and dead leaves. I'm not an added CO2 user myself, but even with added CO2 your plants will take a little time to transition from being produced emersed to being submerged in your tank, and during this process leaves will senesce and be shed.

I'd read through the <"drop checker sticky"> as well.

cheers Darrel
 
You say 6 hours lights / Co2 but how long is the Co2 on before the lights start.
Are you using a DC to give you an indication of Co2 levels or using a PH pen?
 
I'd also lower your tank temperature. I'm sure I've read that a higher temperature can drive off your Co2 quicker - I might be wrong though:)
 
Thanks Darrel, great advice and really appreciated - will have a good read through the articles shortly.

Hi John,

Lights/co2 are now 5 hours with the co2 on 1 hour before on and off 1 hour before off. Have got a Co2 indicator but this seems to stay green most of the time, shouldn't this be back to Blue in the morning? Was going to start moving the indicator around the tank to see how this affects the colour and also invest in a PH pen so I can do a PH profile. I have the API test kit but on reflection this is quite hard to read and is very open to interpretation!
Meant to say on the first post have lowered the temp to 25° also to see if this helps with the algae.
Thanks again guys, very helpful.

Many thanks Blowfish
 
The DC wont always return to blue overnight. It you have little surface agitation then it may stay green. You can check if the solution is still OK by removing the DC from the tank for an hour. It should go back to more of a blue colour.

While you have no livestock you can turn also up the co2 to see if it helps. Look for the DC being a lime green to yellow colour. You may have to back the gas off before adding any livestock.
 
Thanks John, I will take it out the tank later to check it and let you know. One of the outlet pipes is pointing to the tank surface and causes a nice ripple but probably not enough. Got a good list of bits to do now and try!

Many thanks Blowfish
 
Took the indicator out the tank for an hour and returned to Blue as you said. Have put it back in in the back left top corner and went back to greenish pretty quickly, will have another check tomorrow and keep an eye on things. Have tried to point the outlet upwards more, will it cause a problem not having much surface agitation?

Many thanks Blowfish
 
You may get different answers to that as some peoples DC's do stay green. The important thing is probably that you do not have too much agitation, ie splashing, as your Co2 will drive off quicker. The main thing to remember is that the changes you make will not fix things overnight, you need some patience - although it can get frustrating.

Are your lights T5 or T8?
 
Thanks John, the outlet is causing a good ripple but not really breaking the surface. Yes, have definitely realised over time that require a very good level of patience in fish keeping! Lol. Lights are standard T8's 40W.


Many thanks Blowfish
 
Tank water levels on Day 38. Tested just before co2 goes off and an hour before lights go out.
PH - 6.8 AMM - 0.25ppm NITRI - 0ppm NITRA 40-80ppm GH - 15 KH - 8.
Do people think these levels look OK/the tank is cycled?
Wanted to add some shrimp firstly to help with algae but don't want to harm them obviously. Was going to ask my local Maidenhead to check the levels for me also as a back up.

Many thanks Blowfish
 
Hi Blowfish!, you are off to a sensible start although I think you would see benefits from more water changes.
Once the tank is well established, 50% water change a week is what most of us find successful however you can do as many water changes as you can find the time for! 25% a day would be great (or more).
You could also add more plants as it seems the bigger the plant mass the less algae..... (as long as the plants are growing well)
I know plants can be expensive but you can sell any excesses via the forum for a reasonable sum once they have out grown your space!
I think you can safely add some Amanos if you want to but while the tank has no creatures in it, it is a great time to experiment with the C02!
You can really turn it up & see what happens. With max levels of co2 you should see almost instant growth & quite likely oxygen bubbles forming on the plants!
This is a great way to get your tank established fast.
If you are adding 3 x BPS try 6 BPS. Once you add fish or shrimp you cant just play with the gas as you might kill them but at the moment you can!
 
Many thanks foxfish, great reply and help. Misjudged my container size, have actually been changing 40 - 50% twice per week and last night made sure did a good 50% change. Have turned the co2 up and will see what happens for a while, also upped my ferts slightly too. Will nip in my local shop in the next few day and see about some more plants. Thanks Edvet also.
Is the best way to check the co2 levels a PH pen then, it is going in the tank via a diffuser placed low down under my inlet pipe.

Many thanks Blowfish
 
Neil Blowfield said:
Is the best way to check the co2 levels a PH pen
Click to expand...
It's a way to see, I personally prefer it over a dropchecker. I tend to strive for a 1 unit pH drop between dark and lights on.
 
Anybody recommend a type/make for this? Have seen quite a big price difference on these and wondered if the cheaper ones would be suitable and up to the job.

Many thanks Blowfish
 
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