I would say after mayb 2 weeks. I use RO water. Let me try distilled see what happens. As well.as boil my bottles since i had it for so long
-
You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up
transparent growth
- Thread starter Roediger
- Start date
I mix Potassium Nitrate KNO3 + KH2PO4 Potassium phosphate.
I do this:
That's one bottle. The other bottle is Plantex CSM + B with a drop of vinegar in distilled water.
Josh
Hi thanks for your response. I started to use seache. Equilibrium 1\4 spoon. I did see on youtube someone adding magnesium sulfate to the npk mix.
So you dose this daily sinc eits EI daily
Hi all,
It sounds like you need to make the stock solution less concentrated, because you've exceeded <"the solubility limit"> and the <"least soluble compound"> has come out of solution, via the common ion effect.
cheers Darrel
That is interesting, I don't think it will be a potassium (K) compound coming out of solution, because ~all <"potassium compounds are soluble">.
It sounds like you need to make the stock solution less concentrated, because you've exceeded <"the solubility limit"> and the <"least soluble compound"> has come out of solution, via the common ion effect.
cheers Darrel
Hi all,
cheers Darrel
You will. If you make it half as concentrated you'll need to add twice as much.
cheers Darrel
Yes! I space them out by about 10 hours (macro in the evening micro in the morning).
Craig Matthews
Member
I have this exact same problem with my Monte Carlo, transparent leafs. I dose mg and Fe eddha, even tried doubling the ei macro +micro dose just can't seem to get rid of it 
I was dosing both daily not even seconds apart. Was that bad?
Its crazy... My DC almost white from the co2 i inject and plants dont look good idk what to di but add more ferts... Or start from scratch. I clean my tank and use turkey bastor every week cleaning the groundI have this exact same problem with my Monte Carlo, transparent leafs. I dose mg and Fe eddha, even tried doubling the ei macro +micro dose just can't seem to get rid of it
The phosphates will react with the iron, displacing the chelate (EDTA etc), so it locks up the nutrients. Now, if you dose on opposite ends and have a power head at each and it distributes quickly, then it may be ok ... but if you dissolve iron into distilled water with low pH (I.e added vinegar) then add phosphate a solid should form (I haven’t tried it, but I may).
So, spacing it out is a good idea.
Its crazy... My DC almost white from the co2 i inject and plants dont look good idk what to di but add more ferts... Or start from scratch. I clean my tank and use turkey bastor every week cleaning the ground
Did you adjust the power heads to try and see if it is flow?
Theres good flow. The fluval 306 moves wate rto the left. I placed the power head on the right to move more water back around and to keep the ground clean of gunk. So you really see a circular motion happening. I just dont know if im over doing co2 and not giving enough ferts. Idk need dhelp
Hi @Roediger,
Don't worry!
When something goes wrong in a planted tank it is either:
1) Unhealthy plants (and there is a plethora of issues to cause this)
2) Poor maintenance leading to 1.
So, to make plants healthy, we need:
1) Nutrients
2) Light
Nutrients = CO2 + all the other nutrients.
They get the nutrients from the substrate and/or the water column via water flowing by.
They get CO2 primarily from the water column, which is delivered by water flowing by. It is hard to get gas in water. That is why, your flow distribution needs to be bang on so the CO2 gets to all the corners - it is important.
Given a constant flow rate (like your canister filter rating), there are 2 ways to do this ...
1) concentrated and fast ... this is what you have from those outputs.
2) spread out and slow ... this would be like a spray bar or a lilly pipe which drastically reduces how fast the water "jets" out.
People make both ways work.
There are 2 ways to do nutrients:
1) respond to plants and dose nutrients "as needed" or minimally.
2) dose in excess using the EI method which "ensures" you have enough of everything in.
Light = how much energy goes into the system ... it will increase the rate at which things in the tank happen ... good and bad.
You need minimum light for plants to grow. The suggestion to reduce lighting to prevent algae is so that you can slow down the system, reduce CO2 demand on the plants (as light drives photosynthesis); this makes your weekly water changes and maintenance feel like "daily" maintenance compared to a High-high light system.
You are cleaning well.
You are dosing EI.
You have good CO2.
You have good flow.
You have enough light.
... filtration + surface agitation?
But something is still going wrong. So that means that one of those things are actually not good.
Nutrients:
Let's go with EI for now.
Read <this>. Mix 2 solutions and dose as per the schedule that Clive suggests. You are welcome to add the booster to 1 dGh to your water change water. However, your water report will tell you what your water is. It is almost worth NOT putting in the booster, just to see how you tank fairs without it. You can always add it after. The rationale to add it is so that you just know it is there without requiring a test.
One thing that we need to know about nutrients is that if you have one immensely out of proportion, there will be an issue with uptake but we cannot say anything until we do the next step:
If it were me, I would reset the tank. To do that, I would do a massive water change maybe 2 back to back, until the TDS in the tank drops close to your tap water. Take this time to do maintenance well. You shouldn't have any issue with fish shock, provided you have been doing regular maintenance (the water won't be that different).
This < post I made > is exactly what I would do after the massive turn over.
A pH profile requires you take a pH reading from the moment you turn on the gas every half an hour until you turn it off.
Ex:
Gas on (9:00) : 7.4
9:30: 7.0
10:00 : 6.6
10:30 6.6
11:00 : 6.4
... 6.4 every reading until gas off.
In this case, I would say we may want to turn the gas on earlier (by 1 hour) to get your pH drop to be stable from the start of your photoperiod. Let us get your data first, then we can move forward.
Temperature in your tank: if you do not have fish that require hotter water, turn it down to 72 fahrenheit.
I hope that helps. Please keep us updated.
Also, this will take time, so hang in there.
Really do need this information:
1. Size of tank.
2. Filtration.
3. Lighting and duration.
4. Substrate.
5. Co2 dosing or Non-dosing.
6. Fertilisers used + Ratios.
7. Water change regime.
8. Plant list.
9. Inhabitants.
10. Full tank shot.
Josh
Don't worry!
When something goes wrong in a planted tank it is either:
1) Unhealthy plants (and there is a plethora of issues to cause this)
2) Poor maintenance leading to 1.
So, to make plants healthy, we need:
1) Nutrients
2) Light
Nutrients = CO2 + all the other nutrients.
They get the nutrients from the substrate and/or the water column via water flowing by.
They get CO2 primarily from the water column, which is delivered by water flowing by. It is hard to get gas in water. That is why, your flow distribution needs to be bang on so the CO2 gets to all the corners - it is important.
Given a constant flow rate (like your canister filter rating), there are 2 ways to do this ...
1) concentrated and fast ... this is what you have from those outputs.
2) spread out and slow ... this would be like a spray bar or a lilly pipe which drastically reduces how fast the water "jets" out.
People make both ways work.
There are 2 ways to do nutrients:
1) respond to plants and dose nutrients "as needed" or minimally.
2) dose in excess using the EI method which "ensures" you have enough of everything in.
Light = how much energy goes into the system ... it will increase the rate at which things in the tank happen ... good and bad.
You need minimum light for plants to grow. The suggestion to reduce lighting to prevent algae is so that you can slow down the system, reduce CO2 demand on the plants (as light drives photosynthesis); this makes your weekly water changes and maintenance feel like "daily" maintenance compared to a High-high light system.
You are cleaning well.
You are dosing EI.
You have good CO2.
You have good flow.
You have enough light.
... filtration + surface agitation?
But something is still going wrong. So that means that one of those things are actually not good.
Nutrients:
Let's go with EI for now.
Read <this>. Mix 2 solutions and dose as per the schedule that Clive suggests. You are welcome to add the booster to 1 dGh to your water change water. However, your water report will tell you what your water is. It is almost worth NOT putting in the booster, just to see how you tank fairs without it. You can always add it after. The rationale to add it is so that you just know it is there without requiring a test.
One thing that we need to know about nutrients is that if you have one immensely out of proportion, there will be an issue with uptake but we cannot say anything until we do the next step:
If it were me, I would reset the tank. To do that, I would do a massive water change maybe 2 back to back, until the TDS in the tank drops close to your tap water. Take this time to do maintenance well. You shouldn't have any issue with fish shock, provided you have been doing regular maintenance (the water won't be that different).
This < post I made > is exactly what I would do after the massive turn over.
A pH profile requires you take a pH reading from the moment you turn on the gas every half an hour until you turn it off.
Ex:
Gas on (9:00) : 7.4
9:30: 7.0
10:00 : 6.6
10:30 6.6
11:00 : 6.4
... 6.4 every reading until gas off.
In this case, I would say we may want to turn the gas on earlier (by 1 hour) to get your pH drop to be stable from the start of your photoperiod. Let us get your data first, then we can move forward.
Temperature in your tank: if you do not have fish that require hotter water, turn it down to 72 fahrenheit.
I hope that helps. Please keep us updated.
Also, this will take time, so hang in there.
Really do need this information:
1. Size of tank.
2. Filtration.
3. Lighting and duration.
4. Substrate.
5. Co2 dosing or Non-dosing.
6. Fertilisers used + Ratios.
7. Water change regime.
8. Plant list.
9. Inhabitants.
10. Full tank shot.
Josh
Last edited:
1. Size of tank.29gal
2. Filtration.fluval 306
3. Lighting and duration. Agrobrite florecent t5 6400k bulbx3 powerveg 660 red. lights on 7.5 hrs
4. Substrate. amazonia light
5. Co2 dosing or Non-dosing.co2
6. Fertilisers used + Ratios. Kno3 4ppm x5 kh2po4 1ppmx5. K 5ppm x5 . Csm+b plantex .02ppm x5 i dose both chems everyday for 5 days
7. Water change regime. Sundays wc 50% and turkey bastor the floor every time.
8. Plant list.bacopa, ludwigia sp red, cryto indulata,monte carlo, ludwigia arcuata, rotala rotundofolia
9. Inhabitants. Neon tetra 6x , otos cleaner x3
10. Full tank shot.
2. Filtration.fluval 306
3. Lighting and duration. Agrobrite florecent t5 6400k bulbx3 powerveg 660 red. lights on 7.5 hrs
4. Substrate. amazonia light
5. Co2 dosing or Non-dosing.co2
6. Fertilisers used + Ratios. Kno3 4ppm x5 kh2po4 1ppmx5. K 5ppm x5 . Csm+b plantex .02ppm x5 i dose both chems everyday for 5 days
7. Water change regime. Sundays wc 50% and turkey bastor the floor every time.
8. Plant list.bacopa, ludwigia sp red, cryto indulata,monte carlo, ludwigia arcuata, rotala rotundofolia
9. Inhabitants. Neon tetra 6x , otos cleaner x3
10. Full tank shot.
Hi all,
cheers Darrel
We don't have much magnesium in our tap water in the UK, even if it is from a limestone aquifer. You may well have more for <"geological reasons">.
Plant health looks pretty good.9. Inhabitants. Neon tetra 6x , otos cleaner x3
cheers Darrel
