Gilles
Member
- Joined
- 29 Mar 2011
- Messages
- 122
Hi all!
In the past I've had multiple aquariums equipped with either sumps and sand filtration or external filters, all of them combined with massive PVC plumbing and 'bored out' AquaMedic 1000 reactors to increase flow. Some even had automatic water change with RO based on water sensors. I even built myself a 800 liter plywood tank completely myself with DIY lighting (80w T5 tubes). Maybe some of you still remember my posts on this forum but they range back about 5 or 6 years; Next to that i own and run a Dutch based fertiliser shop where i not only sell my own plant nutrition but also powders like potassium, nitrates, micro elements etc. I have also built my own Arduino based swimming pool controller which monitors pH and ORP and doses chlorine and acids with dosing pumps. I am telling this just to give you some background on my knowledge of water chemistry etc.
However, in the past 6 years i have never ran a tank due to me moving houses, getting kids and never really had the time or the urge to start a new tank.
The new project:
However... I've recently bought a store demo model of the 60l Dennerle Scapers tank formy kids me and it came with the LED light and the corner filter. Reason for buying this one was because I have the intention to move to a 180 liter or 250 liter tank (on my bucket list is an ADA but also the new Oase Scapers Tank is a gem to be honest) but since it was 6 years ago that i had my last tank i wanted to start small and see if i would still want to move to a bigger tank. Off course it started with buying new filtration cartridges and the tank is now cycling with 50/50 RO/tap water, added FB7 bacteria (it came with the tank) and off course the tank is filled with Dennerle Scaper's soil since it looked cool and was available in the shop. Plant wise only limnobium laevigatum is added to the tank which i've added in an in-vitro bred form. That is now cycling since Sunday and i am planning on doing my water changes every other day (10l) for at least 2 weeks before i measure NO2 and even attempt to add live-stock.
The livestock:
I am planning on adding about 20 Boraras brigittae to this tank and about 25 crystal red shrimps combined with an unknown amount of blue-ish shrimps which don't inter-breed. I think about 5 Otocinclus for algae control should be enough. I am still doubting between the Boraras and the danio margaritatus or even the popondetta furcata but i think this tank is to small for that fish.
The plants:
Since i want to have shrimps in the tank and want to have a carpeting plant so i am thinking about a mix of Blyxa Japonica and glossostigma elantoides or something similar. Nothing more to keep also the scape 'clean'.
The tech:
I've bought a Milwaukee pH controller for adding CO2 to this tank. The injection is done via an Aquario CO2 diffusor and i want to monitor pH not only via the controller but monitor the probe and accuracy of the controller via a CO2 test so that i know when to calibrate the pH probe.
The questions:
Basically i have only 2 questions.
(1) Do you have any feedback on the above plans and ...
(2) Given the fact that i want to migrate to a bigger tank in the future, and the fact that i already have a in-line Hydor heater at home, i am thinking about removing the heating element and the corner filter from the tank and move to an external canister filter, but i need some advise.
I am thinking about the Eheim 5e 450 (due to the later to be added external CO2 reactor) and (for now, e.g. in this tank) add an optional bypass to it if the lowest flow speed in the WiFi app is still to strong, so that it doesn't create waves in the tank but still has plenty of power. Reason for moving to an external filter is that it has way more filtration capacity this way and maintenance would be easier without disruption to the tank + the fact that i am then 'ready' for the bigger tank besides maybe an external CO2 reactor. So one of the requirements would be that it would need to be able to power a 250l tank but with an internal heater in the line and a CO2 reactor also plumbed into it.
Thoughts/advice/tips?
In the past I've had multiple aquariums equipped with either sumps and sand filtration or external filters, all of them combined with massive PVC plumbing and 'bored out' AquaMedic 1000 reactors to increase flow. Some even had automatic water change with RO based on water sensors. I even built myself a 800 liter plywood tank completely myself with DIY lighting (80w T5 tubes). Maybe some of you still remember my posts on this forum but they range back about 5 or 6 years; Next to that i own and run a Dutch based fertiliser shop where i not only sell my own plant nutrition but also powders like potassium, nitrates, micro elements etc. I have also built my own Arduino based swimming pool controller which monitors pH and ORP and doses chlorine and acids with dosing pumps. I am telling this just to give you some background on my knowledge of water chemistry etc.
However, in the past 6 years i have never ran a tank due to me moving houses, getting kids and never really had the time or the urge to start a new tank.
The new project:
However... I've recently bought a store demo model of the 60l Dennerle Scapers tank for
The livestock:
I am planning on adding about 20 Boraras brigittae to this tank and about 25 crystal red shrimps combined with an unknown amount of blue-ish shrimps which don't inter-breed. I think about 5 Otocinclus for algae control should be enough. I am still doubting between the Boraras and the danio margaritatus or even the popondetta furcata but i think this tank is to small for that fish.
The plants:
Since i want to have shrimps in the tank and want to have a carpeting plant so i am thinking about a mix of Blyxa Japonica and glossostigma elantoides or something similar. Nothing more to keep also the scape 'clean'.
The tech:
I've bought a Milwaukee pH controller for adding CO2 to this tank. The injection is done via an Aquario CO2 diffusor and i want to monitor pH not only via the controller but monitor the probe and accuracy of the controller via a CO2 test so that i know when to calibrate the pH probe.
The questions:
Basically i have only 2 questions.
(1) Do you have any feedback on the above plans and ...
(2) Given the fact that i want to migrate to a bigger tank in the future, and the fact that i already have a in-line Hydor heater at home, i am thinking about removing the heating element and the corner filter from the tank and move to an external canister filter, but i need some advise.
I am thinking about the Eheim 5e 450 (due to the later to be added external CO2 reactor) and (for now, e.g. in this tank) add an optional bypass to it if the lowest flow speed in the WiFi app is still to strong, so that it doesn't create waves in the tank but still has plenty of power. Reason for moving to an external filter is that it has way more filtration capacity this way and maintenance would be easier without disruption to the tank + the fact that i am then 'ready' for the bigger tank besides maybe an external CO2 reactor. So one of the requirements would be that it would need to be able to power a 250l tank but with an internal heater in the line and a CO2 reactor also plumbed into it.
Thoughts/advice/tips?
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