Search results for query: fertiliser burn

Thank you very much for your reply. I'll look into this and see what I can do about it

Hi all, It isn't over-watering. I think it is a combination of <"fertiliser burn"> and the opportunistic "fungal" disease caused by Pythium <"damping off disease">. cheers Darrel

Cheers! Just removed them. On inspection, I think perhaps that’s the spot the condensation drips. Thanks for confirming the health and nutrition is fine. Will just keep everything as it is and hope the tank recovers in time.

Hi all, No, they look pretty healthy. Looks likely to be some form of damage, it maybe fertiliser <"burn"> if they got some dry salts or strong nutrient solution on them. You need to remove all the brown leaves. cheers Darrel

Hi all, It does look like heat damage, rather than a nutrient deficiency. Might the fertiliser have got on the plant leaves? You can get <"fertiliser burn">. Would be my guess. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Definitely looks true for Anubias <"https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/my-unfortunate-vacation-experience-and-who-dun-it.12705"> (which is also an Aroid). I'm going to guess most plants <"would be more tolerant">. That is the difficulty, knowing what level of ammonia (NH3) they...

I think EI idea is to provide nutrients in excess, so that deficiency of any nutrient cannot happen. Of course, without CO2 injection, plants will use much less of it. What remains the same is that plants have to cope with such a "strong" solution. See original post. I do not aim at any target...

No, the complete opposite. The plants that developed the ability to gain nutrition from absorbing insects did so out of necessity as they come from areas with very poor nutrition. To put it simply, fertiliser can kill them; their roots often can't handle it and burn or they simply dislike it and...

Regarding my salvinia issue. Never really solved it as such. Pretty sure it wasn’t fertiliser burn as changing the way I dosed made no difference. The die off was worst where the plants sat on top of very dense curled up Vals on the surface but improved when some of the Vals were cleared and it...

...that is what high light Salvinia looks like. The marks are fungal. but look like they might have appeared on leaves damaged by fertiliser burn or <"water droplet lensing">. Because it is a floating plant, neither flow nor CO2 is really relevant. I'll copy in @KirstyF because she had a...

I checked for NO2 and NO3 traces every week, when NO2 was close to zero and NO3 was high it seemed to me it was good enough, that took 1.5 month. I still waited two weeks after that just to be sure and then did water changes to lower GH/KH that were very high (GH~22/KH~14). I did a black start...

Hi all, It looks like fertiliser burn, which is why I suggested it may be ammonia burn, but glutaraldehyde would also cause those symptoms. How did you measure how far your cycle had got? cheers Darrel

No burn... I would follow Johns and previous advice and dose gently. With my tanks I'd rather skip a dosing/ maintenance/feeding cycle if I feel like I would have to do it in a rush. Ah! So there you go John, it is a thing.... really akin to me forgetting to turn off the lawn spreader and...

Hi all, If you add dry salts fertiliser burn is a real risk and it would look almost exactly like that. We have a thread somewhere where Hemianthus in a dry start with ADA Amazonia shows the same effects and we think that was <"fertiliser burn, followed by opportunistic "fungal" attack">...

John, I have never heard of that in a planted tank. But then again, there are an abundance of things that I've never heard of! :lol: Fertilizer burn (from Nitrogen) is definitely a thing with terrestrial plants... just come and inspect my lawn in the spring, and I'll prove it:lol: Following...

Now wouldn’t that be ironic 😂 Well, happy to give anything a whirl so I’ll add that remedy to the list. 👍 Ferts do also go through the ‘air gap’ 6” away but I’d expect them to be taken down and disperse as they are going directly into the flow from the gyre. 🤔 Could be getting a bit of drift...

Distribute your ferts in alternative sides of the tank, feel quite confident the "fungal infection" will go away 😁 Suspect this is, wait for it... fertiliser burn...

Hello everyone. I think I added too much ferts and my H. tenellum losing their leaves and melt, even though I’ve done several 60% water changes after the accident. Is there anyway I can fix this?

...ever get there with a <"turned up to eleven plant"> like <"Eichornia crassipes">* What @MichaelJ says. We have a few threads on <"fertiliser burn">, although they mainly relate to DSM set-ups. * Hongjie Q., et al. (2016) "Site test of phytoremediation of an open pond contaminated with...

Hi all, My guess is that this is a <"common response in Aroids">. I'd go down the very "pale blue" route with Miracle Gro (or Solufeed 2: 1: 4) <"liquid feed">. From the Solufeed technical data sheet I think you would want an <"Orchid growing approach">. cheers Darrel

What brand of soil is it? If you've been swapping out the water regularly you should be okay - it's difficult to test. If it were me I'd swap the water out in the bucket - leave it to stand for a couple of days and then test the water for ammonia - if more for the same of the livestock than the...

I'm doing a foreground rescape on the weekend with new soil that's been soaking in a bucket since September. Do you think I'll be ok using that without issue? I suspect this could be the case. Im slightly reluctant to fertilise with a foliar spray as I don't want to burn the leaves. My thought...

...Are they the older leaves (furthest away from the growing point?) or the <"newer leaves nearest the growing point?">. The Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus) has suffered from drying, it could be they've <"actually dried out during planting">, or it could be <"fertiliser burn">. cheers Darrel

...to make decisions based on test kits, unless I'm pretty confident they are accurate. In this case, the plant damage looks like fertiliser burn, which means that whatever the test kit says it is likely that you have high levels of ions in the water, and they are likely to have come from the...

...be causing damage to the plants before it is processed by the bacteria, even tough levels in the water are undetectable by the tests. Also wondering about those root tabs now, having had a quick look at those fertiliser burn threads... maybe I added too much with also adding some new Amazonia?

Hi Darrel, Im not so sure about this to be honest. All of the Guyana started to start to thrive, stood up and was bright green after a day of being in the tank, as if starting to take root. It then started going like this stem by stem progressively. The healthy stems you can see on this pic...

Hi all, The highlighted area looks very much like <"fertiliser "burn">. It could be from <"high salts concentration"> in the water, or it could be from heating damage in transit etc. cheers Darrel

Hi all, I wonder if its the soluble carbon addition, it looks like <"fertiliser burn">, but you would get the same effect with an oxidising agent like hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) or glutaraldehyde. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Yes, fertiliser burn. It has similar symptoms to the leaves drying, because in both cases the water has been sucked out of the leaf and you get localised cell death. If it is a humidity effect the edges of the leaves are where you get the symptoms, but with fertiliser burn it is where...

...instant greening response, it would be something with a lot of nitrogen, and probably in the form of urea, to reduce the risk of <"fertiliser burn"> in terrestrial plants. My guess is that is why <"Tropica, ADA etc"> use urea as their nitrogen (N) source, <"it only adds N">, it is cheap to...

Hi all, They look like they may be burn marks on the Salvinia. It definitely looks like snails have been feeding on the older leaves, possibly because they were already unhealthy. If it is snails, when you look at the float cells (on the undersides of the Amazon Frogbit leaves) you may be able...

Hi all, Was it fresh Aquasoil? We have a few threads where there maybe <"fertiliser burn"> from the high level of nutrients using nutrient rich substrates in a <"dry start method">. Once the plants are damaged they are much more likely to fall victim to <"opportunistic pathogens">. cheers Darrel

...be because the plant has actually become dry and not enough water got to the leaf edges (which would be my guess), or it can be <"fertiliser burn">, where a strong solution has pulled the water out of the leaf via osmosis. You can also get it when a shade leaf (with a lot of chlorophyll in...

Thanks for the tip will do, It might be worth doing a water change anyway as I'm using a leftover bag of tropica powder soil so probably don't need to dose anything for a while, It's so easy to plant and nothing floats away.

...I left, but they were obviously going to be the next big thing because you could root really small, soft cuttings with them. I'd go for a much <"weaker salts mix">, no more then a 1/4 EI and probably nearer 1/10. You can still get <"fertiliser burn"> even with very weak solutions. cheers Darrel

Hi all, <"Fertiliser burn"> for me as well. Mosses, fern prothallia and liverwort are particularly at risk from osmotic stress, because they don't have the protective leaf epidermis that a higher plant would have. cheers Darrel

Well there will still be one but it probably won't be so large and last as long. Not really the reason for doing DSM. There will always be an ammonia spike whilst soil transitions to sediment once submerged. Really up to you, there are + and - . I've done it just for the Craic and the learning...

No dripping or condensation of any kind... all open... the riparium have par38 LED bulbs and the wabi has par30 LED so they are point source... but the wabi does not have the brown spots... the quarantine tank had a finnex LED... Anyways I'm probably taking them out of the main tanks... they...

Hi all, It might be dripping condensation (from one of the emersed plants or the luminaire)? or fertiliser burn? Not sure otherwise, but it definitely looks like a burn mark. I think it depends on the light source, you don't get it with fluorescent tubes, but you do with a point light source...

...but you have to be careful with the strength of the fertiliser when you use it for a dry start. In the tank you have the dilution effect of the large volume of water, but when you just mist the plant with the fertiliser mix you run the risk of <"fertiliser burn"> via osmosis. cheers Darrel

You don't really need to put anything under AS to build raised areas it'll be fine as is. But to make it go further you can use tights or filter media bags filled with gravel or crushed pumice. As for quantity depends on area and depth, this may help...

I agree, if it's an option I'd do it that way too... Low-energy lawns and the Dry Start Method One of the biggest bugbears of the low-energy way is the length of time it can take to establish a lawn of foreground plants. However, it is possible to give your plants a head start by using the DSM...

Answered here:

...nutrients via their leaves and aerial roots, they don't have conventional roots), than ammonia or nitrate, both of which can cause <"fertiliser burn">. So in that case the N: P: K are quoted as P2O5 and K2O, so you have ~5.3:1:0.7 Yes it is, but with more nitrogen and less potassium, or...

Sprinkling the shoots avoids this for me but Darrel’s spot on I’d say. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

...can replace it. The growing tips and edges of the leaves are furthest from the root, and are the first to show signs of distress. You could try adding a little bit of water back in to the tank. It can also be because the air has become too dry, or it can be <"fertiliser burn"> etc.. cheers...

Many thanks, Zeus. I have added the Oase biomaster thermo 350 aquarium external-filter to my list. Looks like a very good filter, and as you say it negates the need for a separate heater. Will also take a look at the smart controller. As for the Co2 around £150 if that's possible? Cheers Many...

Hi and Welcome to the forum :) :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: but Oase BioMaster Thermo 250 Aquarium External Filter Nice also with built in heater and prefilter bit more powerful too :thumbup: but no need for it with filter above plus less plumbing If the room is at a comfortable temp...

...It may be that the leaves have actually got dry (been out of the tank for a while?) or it might be physiological damage from the <"excess energy from high light levels"> or <"osmotic damage ("fertiliser burn")"> where a salty solution (fertilizer dry salts?) has got on the leaves. cheers...

Hi all, It is usually chlorides and nitrates that cause "fertiliser burn", partially because they are very soluble. This high osmotic potential means that water is "sucked" from the leaf when it is in contact with the dry salt or concentrated solution. Because of their high solubility there...

Hi Darrel, I dose aquarebell liquid fertiliser this way; 3ml aquarebell estimative index / day 0,5 ml aquarebell eisen / day 50% waterchange with tap water per week. Since this problem I'm now trying this; 2ml aquarebell estimative index/ day. 4ml aquarebell eisen after weekly waterchange...

Hi all, That looks like fertiliser burn, do you dose dry salts? cheers Darrel

Hi all, I'd probably stop adding the fertiliser, mosses don't need it and it may be causing osmotic burn. Dry start method is a bit of a misnomer, it is wet start method but without the water covering the plants. Sit it on a heat mat, they sell them for "<vivariums">. It can be a low wattage...

I dont use water flow or filtering the water. I just add some water if soil going to dry. I always checking it in the morning everyday before going to work. Organic fert is more save than chemical. It going to mixed with soil and provide nature nutrition. except you adding posphat or others...

Thanks for these info. You can indeed you use normal garden soil (usually free) and add some cheap terrestrial fertiliser but take care not to fertilise too much as the roots can burn. Do you use the ebb and flow technique for these?

I use it too :) great stuff.. But it's a little on the heavy side, especialy for immature tanks.. As complete micro macro fertilizer it contains also nitrogene and a bit amonia. When i starter using in i noticed a bit of amonia rise (not much but still) and also some extra beard algae growth. I...

...saturated and no mold as yet. I'm hoping this isn't something I can't fix! I'm wondering if this is either a deficiency or if it is fertiliser burn from the weak ro:fert mix (0.5ml aquavitro synthesis to 1.5l ro water) The tank has been flooded and drained a few times to reduce some of the...

Hi all, It definitely looks like "fertiliser burn", I've never had a tank with really acidic water, but very low pH may create the same effect. cheers Darrel

Thanks Darrel. As mentioned, some cuttings of HC that I threw into a Tupperware container with some ADA and a tiny bit of water is doing really well. Logic tells me to try and recreate these successful conditions in my tank so I'll chuck it in and see what happens.

...the Amazonia will have a very high conductivity (the soluble salts will have gone into solution), and it is the salts that cause the "fertiliser burn". You could try capping the soil with some sand where the HC is going to go, but even then you may still have problems with fertilizer burn...

...Tissue cultured plants would be particularly susceptible to damage because of their very soft growth. If you look at what is left of the carpet in the "after" picture that looks very much like "fertiliser burn". (from <http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/TOOLS/TURF/PESTS/abiofert.html>) cheers...

My preference would be to use a specialized aquatic plant fertilizer such as Tropica & just add it to the EC at 10- 20X normal dose (you won't need much water volume to "wet" the EC, so this really is not that much liquid fertilizer), then carry on using this fertilizer for water column dosing...

Osmocote Plus uses ammonium nitrate in a binder (soya based I think) as its source of ammonia, see contents, and will cause fertiliser burn if left soaking on plants. Also the release of ammonia will be toxic to fish. However many people had successfully used Osmocote, if you don't use too much...

Hi all, Yes it could be ammonia, or just general fertiliser burn, you have at least x10 the amount of Osmocote you need. If you have a conductivity meter you could measure the tank water. If you have more than about 2000 microS (1200ppm TDS) your plants may be suffering from osmotic effects...

Hi all, Controlled Release Fertilisers, like Osmocote, have urea formaldehyde or IBDU (Isobutylidenediurea) as their nitrogen source. Most liquid fertilisers or foliar feeds will have urea or nitrates as their primary nitrogen source. This is because high levels of ammonia can cause...

Something else that seems to come up frequently is low energy lawns. So I thought it might be an idea to write an introduction and add it as an addendum to the Tutorial. Low-energy lawns and DSM One of the biggest bugbears of the low-energy way is the length of time it can take to establish a...

Hi all, One of the problems with tissue cultured plants is the weaning period, but that looks like "fertiliser burn", this happens where there are a lot of salts are in solution in a small volume of water. I think the problem is probably the ADA Amazonia, all the salts (fertiliser) it...

Hi all, It will grow indefinitely emersed, in fact it will be much happier. Would be my recommendation as well. Other than the HC they are all plants that are much more likely to be damaged by the salts in the fertiliser, rather than aided by it. The moss and liverwort don't have any...

....well, rather ironically it was the first opportunity in some weeks to get out in the garden and cut the grass after the deluge of rainfall weve been having recently....and low and behold the Ceg strikes again. The first thing i noticed was all the patches of dead, brown burnt grass had been...

You wernt duped by the Matrix were you :lol: Maybe dog pee would work as an ammonia fertiliser if watered in after each 'tinkling' to dilute slightly and not burn. Ill don my wellies, armed with watering can for the next few weeks and let you know how it goes..... :wink:

The Soil Substrate Planted Tank - a How to Guide... ...or Zen and an Introduction to the Art of Underwater Gardening with Soil or Dirt... ...or The Hybrid-Energy Approach. Introduction In writing this I hope to illustrate that using soil substrate offers a range of possibilities and that it's...

...majority of plants it makes no difference whether the fertiliser addition is to the water column, or to the substrate. If the leaf burn is a ring around the edge and tip of the leaf? it is probably to do with water loss (in the less humid atmosphere), rather than fertiliser burn. cheers Darrel

Hi all, Are you growing them hydroponically? if you are you need to aim for N ~ 150ppm, P ~ 40ppm, K ~ 200ppm, Ca ~100ppm, Mg ~ 50ppm + traces in the solution and no more than 3 milli S conductivity. If they are potted the cheapest option is probably to buy "Chempak Tomato Feed", "Tomorite" or...

Hi all, I think nearly all the complete substrates are calcined clays, the amount of nutrients they contain would depend upon the clay (some would be potassium rich) and how hot the calcining temperature was. Very hot temperatures will produce a harder fired product, and the heat of firing...

(I apologise in advance for the length of the post) Hi my name is Steve and I'm new here. While I don't profess to having quite the technical expertise as some of our more esteemed members (you know who you are) here are some words of advice based on my own experiences. If you know all of this...