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I've never used one because of lacking space. But I would hope it will not release water like this one. The shape looks right but the flow does not.

They said it's normal. http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/forum/general-discussion/252-prime-question

Jatujak is a market for wholesale and retail. Fish in the bags are normally available from Wednesday's night to Thursday's noon. They're generally bought by LFS's from other areas/regions.

Every pump has its head height limit. What is the height the pump will have to push water up to? Measure the height from the pump to the hose opening of your setup and look at the pump's Hmax (Head Max) or pump head specs. Then you can roughly guess how much flow is left. For example, an...

This eBay shop ships worldwide with very reasonable shipping cost, I also bought mine from them. A 250g can last me almost 5 years. It is the powder form of Prime...

Please tell me this is mistyped. Please show a reference about that. Yes, Ascorbic Acid will react to water hardness. But, it doesn't seem to "drastically" reduce the effectiveness of it dechlorination capacity. All that I could find is when using it with chloramine, the pH will defy chance of...

To make it more complete, actually it takes about 0.45 gram for 165 litres, I just add another 0.45 to cover any error. And if 0.90 gram is needed to neutralise the chlorine according to my test kit, I will add another 0.45 g. NH3 (occurs in higher pH, not in acidic condition) which is the...

Although I believe vitamin C is better than Sodium Thiosulphate, both release ammonia after neutralizing chloramine. If your tap contains chloramine, you should use a dechlorinator that can lock ammonia as well as neutralise chorine. Because ammonia is harmful to animals in the tank. Seachem...

Yes, and this document shows how it's better than sulphur based dechlorinators: https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/html/05231301/05231301.html I've been using it for yeas now. Because: 1. I think it's better for my Cory's than Sodium Thiosulfate because they often acted like chewing something but...

JBL Ferropol contains only Potassium and Traces which is probably adequate for a fish tank with some plants and no CO2 injection. For a CO2 injected planted tank, you also need Nitrogen and Phosphorus.

OK, that's good since it adds oxygen in dark hours. It's just an educated guess, things I would try in this situation, I couldn't guarantee it. And for a 27 litres tank in this condition, I would have 5-6 Amano shrimp in it too.

During the first month, it's best to do 25-50% (Tropica said), 33% (ADA said) or 50% (EI method) water change two times a week. Even though it's more than a month old now, I would up the water change to help clean it up. And the spray bar should be under the surface for CO2 injected tank to...

If it's not the light. The tank looks a bit dirty. How often is your water-change? If the soil leaches ammonia, some plants will melt and ethylene from dying plant signals other plants to reach surface to survive. Dirty/rotting environment can cause plants dying as well. It also may be CO2...

Occasionally my Rotala green grow three leaves per node for a branch and two leaves per node on another, in the same plant. I also have a few Rotala rotundifolia. Some are two leaved, some three, not in the same plant but I believe it's possible. I might see it if I had enough number of them.

At that level of light, even algae might be dead by photoinhibition. But if you can afford to have that light, well, there must be a way. :lol:

https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20161222223332/http://www.aquamazon.com/en/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=47&Itemid=103 But, seriously, I'm afraid this would be more like a burden for me even with unlimited budget. That said, my perspective might change if I was that...

Still too far and the out-of-water picture is not very useful for ID'ing algae because they don't fluff up showing their character. I still think it's BBA by the way. Cause(s) of BBA? It's still debatable. It has been like a moving target to me. In my case, previously it went crazy when...

Although the last picture the last one is not close enough to be sure but the black outline looks like BBA (black beard algae—welcome to the club).

Mine is needle-leaf type. Old leaves at the top of the tank really stay green except ones buried under the floating tuft of Vivipara that turn distinctly darker green. I know they are old because they no longer have "transparent" tips anymore. Some of them are very old as I intentionally keep...

IME, more light will make old Java Fern's leaves stay bright green.

Bulky yes, but you probably don't have to clean it every other day because when the scum is inside, the strong ripple there will disturb it continuously, break it down into the filter. I just clean mine once a week when doing water change. Agree.

I don't think both will help but you can try of course. If it's Fe and trace elements, you should see improvement within 2 weeks and sooner than that for Mg and Phosphorus. The next phrase, IMO, is focus on water hardness. Are you sure the rock you use is inert? Small tank can be easier...

Let's recap your problems. 1. Glassy leaves. 2. Thin new stem's tips. You've doubled fertiser dosing for 10 days, added Epsom Salts for 5 days. For me, I would not worry about the #2. From my observation on my own stem plants like Rotala green, the stems at the tips will be thinner while size...

The number is just copied from the calculator, I didn't bother rounding it out. But yeah, I use a two-decimal gram scale. :oops: By the way, I think when you're used to using something, you can be quite accurate about its amount even without a measuring accessory, like in cooking.

The suggested level option of the calculator is confusing. For me, I always use the how much to add to reach the target option because I know the target. But the OP might not.

I would add 461.46 mg of Epsom salt per week for your tank size. This is 3.5 PPM of magnesium. I would mix it with some water and pour into the tank after a water change. The amount of water to mix with is not important as long as it all dissolves. For the spoon, I only have a small 1/4...

The OP is using Tropica liquid ferts which already use strong chelators (DTPA and HEEDTA). And Fe will be chelated by DTPA because iron has the highest affinity with it than other nutrients. Fe-EDDHA is stronger than DTPA but the colour is very intense even at low concentrations that it's...

Ultimately, if Micros dosing is already high and if water hardness is the culprit, I think the best step to take is to mix the tap with RO or rain water to lower the hardness.

When I experimented about Fe and Cu, Zn ratio in my micro mix. Rotala Green showed some glassy leaves when I stopped dosing Cu. But in the case of the OP, both of Tropica's liquid ferts contain generous amount of Cu. If there is Cu shortage from using their ferts, I don't know what to switch to...

They seems to cater more to newcomers. There is not a single product in their new line of liquid ferts that contains PO4. So they are very similar to PMDD method and concept now.

That is probably the effect of strong light which makes most stem plants look more bushy. It is definitely not the weight because if you uproot or trim them, they will float.

1 pump equals 1.2 ml. And according to Tropica Plant Nutrition Liquid, the weigh of 1.2 ml. is 1.248 grams. Each 1.248 grams of Specialised or Premium contains 0.8736 mg of Fe, which is 0.0672 PPM for 13 litres. Dosing 0.0672 PPM of Fe daily is right in the EI ballpark for Micros. And your...

I once wanted to sterilise some Eheim blue filter pads before taking them to storage . I soaked them in a bleach solution then rinsed and soaked them in a sodium thiosulphate solution. But they still smelt of chorine. So I resoaked them until there were mosquito lavae in the water. Now they are...

Is a clear lily pipe skimmer OK for you? There are two styles: https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/mine-a-mates.27184/ and https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/skimmer-in-combination-with-floating-plants.42821/

That, you have to try. But I don't think you can control algae with light alone. Light level that can grow plants will grow algae too. And if you lower it too far, your plants will die but some algae (diatom, BBA) can still keep growing. On the other hand, more light means many things happens...

Then there might be another question: how high is too high? Well, I could grow Japanese dwarf hair grass in gravel under full sun with intermittent ferts and intermittent CO2 supplement (yeast). Light in the summer afternoon should be no less than 2000 micromols. They didn't die from getting...

Now that you're saying like you're going to add CO2. With CO2 addition, plants are more tolerant to lower light than without. Your 48 micromols (at substrate?) should be enough, about the same as this ADA distributor's tank. See post #1, #2, and #5...

I also don't feel comfortable about applying dechlorinator directly to the tank. So this is the method I use. Yes, I still have to lift the 12l bucket but that's OK. I also use the same long hose (about 10 metres perhaps) to vacuum and drain the tank to the backyard. My tank is 340 litres, the...

Someone may raise some successful cases using very low light, like some versions of Mark Evans' tanks. But the brightness we see with our eyes or even PAR values can be misleading. Because our eyes favour wavelength in the green range more than others and PAR favours every photon from 400 to 700...

Yes, plants use light to make food. Not enough light = not enough food, no matter how much nutrient you dose.

I use the OTO type, it measures total chlorine, which includes chloramine.

I use a chlorine test kit for swimming pools. It will turn yellow when there is chlorine and will be clear without. I will add a little more de-chlore after it looks clear to cover some misreading. I've recently switched from Prime to Seachem Safe. With the test kit, I've found that the...

We have a few that look similar to that. They have been working well for years. Some of them are used to draw petrol from the cars. Quite reliable. So there might be variation between manufacturers or a change in production lately. By the way, the tube size of mine is about 14-15mm. I just...

If you have used the filters longer than a year, I think dirty hoses might be the culprit. Have you tried cleaning them? The result can be dramatic. Biofilm makes the hose wall less smooth and that will disturb flow pattern and can reduce the flow.

A colour temperature doesn't indicate a particular colour of light but a range. I used to understand this graph (used to work in a colour printing related job). But all I remember now is that look at the lines of Kelvin temperature, for example, a 10000K light can be a bit blue to a bit pink as...

From what I've read, they put a phosphor material into the blue LED. When a phosphor is excited it can convert the input light into another light with a different wavelength. In this case it converts some of the blue light to yellow light (yellow light contains red and green). The yellow light...

So the reason plants look red is probably not because they want to reject red spectrum by reflecting it off. But it is probably from the process of blocking UV and blue spectrum, i.e., they use red pigments to absorb/detain blue and UV. Perhaps kind of like us, we don't protect ourselves by...

White light also contains red spectrum unless it would look cyan. But after reading Darrel's post, I'm rethinking about the need of red spectrum now. :)

I guess red spectrum is needed too. Red plants may dislike red spectrum, so they produce red pigments to reflect it off. And if there is no or little red in the light, they probably won't turn red because there is no need to do that.

Why wasn't it a waste of money when that couldn't solve my problem? I should not have participated in this thread.

Asking "is it possible" in a situation we don't know all the factors is always resulted in "it is possible".

Tried that. I mean I "really" tried that by buying an Eheim 2213 and bottles of Seachem Matrix Carbon only for this purpose. It failed, waste of money. The water was crystal clear with algae that looked as happy as ever.

The tank in the video has the better type of structure as well, i.e., side panels enclosing the base. Looks more beautiful and stronger than one with side panels sit "on" the base. It will be quite easy, if you start with very precisely cut sheets of glass. I've built mine (yep, side panels...

I started with yeast CO2 when I got into this hobby. I've done the math and know that it is viable for my 340 litres tank by using a 3 bottles system with 1 kg of sugar in each. With a bottle getting renewed every week, the cost is 4 kg of sugar a month. And with a normally-open solenoid and a...

I would clean/suction it up, it's regular maintenance. Your carpet is getting thick. You should monitor it and trim it before the lower part rots with lack of light/getting too cramped. If it rots, you will have to spend time and effort replanting the whole of it.

Have you considered using a dropper? I have measured mine and it is 21-22 drops per 1 ml. I also treat each bucket before adding into the tank.

Did you go straight to marine without trying freshwater side first? Freshwater planted tank is a subset of freshwater aquarium and shares most of the same basics. It seems you take the wrong starting point. Instead of deciding what plants and animals you want to keep and start researching from...

Not sure since I don't have the book. But there is a tank with a name like that. Forward to 2:21

IME, they can uproot hairgrass. But I don't think they intentionally do it. They just walk on the substrate, dig and grab whatever around them. And if the tuft of hairgrass has weak rooting... :mad: You have to try and see if for yourself. It is probably not as bad as you might think. BTW...

This is me. I had thought I could just use a pair of chopsticks...until I realised I could not use them with my left hand while looking at the right hand side of the tank. :banghead:

Personally, I look at the pearling rate.

Aquarium Soil can break down to dirt overtime, how long have you had it? Light + nutrients + microorganisms can generate detritus as well, diatom for example. How often do you change water? You might be better off with smaller tank, easier/less energy demand to maintain.

Comparing the growth from the start until last week, it seems it had been good. So I think may be it's because you reduced the light. I figure some algae in initial period is normal. I would just wait until plants have a good hold to the substrate then I would introduce algae crews.

My guess is they are just planted. They are adjusting and starting to grow. Currently there are not enough roots and leaves to gather large amount of nutrients. So the plants have to sacrifice some of the old leaves to create new ones. Some small patches won't survive.

Yesterday I was watching a Toyota AE86 video and wondered what ADA shop was like back in 1983. :(

A DC is a close unit. CO2 that dissipated into the DC has no way to go unlike that dissipated into the atmosphere. It will accumulate there and eventually the CO2 level in the DC solution will be the same as in the tank water.

The function of a DC unit relies on CO2 transfer between two liquids (tank water and DC's solution) separated by an air gap. The process will result in the same CO2 level in those two liquids. When you inject CO2, the CO2 in the tank water rises above the equilibrium with the air, and it will...

I think you don't need more K. I used to dose K2SO4 to supplement K to 30 PPM/week. But then I doubted I need that much. So I tried stopping K2SO4 dosing 2 weeks ago. All the K now is from KNO3 and KH2PO4, no adverse effect seen. Let's think about it. The amounts (numbers of PPM) of K and NO3...

I use plain gravel, no root tabs and no under-soil. But honestly, growing small carpet plants such as hair grass mini (belem) is extremely slow. And I'm not doing EI because I limit my PO4 dosage to 0.1 PPM daily. Overall it looks quite lush and healthy for me. But I think I should have started...

The so called DIY mixes are actually not DIY because you don't mix it yourself. They are off-the-shelf "ready-mix" products for terrestrial plants sold by vendors in planted aquarium business. Most of these products use EDTA iron, perhaps to keep price low or they are meant to use in foliar...

That's a good move, because your tank is big. The side walls are too far away to help give the reflection. And the big rocks just block the reflection from the front wall. To give the best chance for it to grow. It's best to half-burry the crown. The green dashed line is substrate level. This...

In case you haven't seen this one. :) http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/diy-twinstar-thoughts.34795/

Info about light level for various aquatic plants. http://answers.seneye.com/index.php?title=en/Aquarium_help/What_is_PAR_&_PUR_?/fresh_water_plant_PAR_levels Vallisneria americana 50 micromoles minimum, Vallisneria spiralis 40 micromoles min. Even Tom Barr will be hard pressed to recommend...

If the solution to grow plants without algae was just dialling into a light level, many threads in the forums would not exist. :)

The light may be two low. A Grobeam 600's PAR reading is just 16-18 micromols at 58 cm from the substrate at 100% setting. http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/anyone-using-these-without-trouble.30700/

I never keep a Panchax. But I think any big fish will make Amano shrimp hide in the plants or stay on the substrate only. That happened in my previous tank with a medium sized Angel fish. Its mouth was too small to swallow them. But it still made them afraid. You already have the Siamese Algae...

Any moss can have algae problem. And Java moss is already the least demanding species. I thinks Amano shrimp work better for this delicate job. You have to have enough of them though, to see the result. My mosses in the high light area had always been entangled with Spirogyra and Oedogonium...

Only SOME slime coat products are incompatible. http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/Purigen.html They know what they are selling and not selling. I'm just saying. :lol:

Tank's temperature affects growth rate and lifespan. Mine is generally at 28 celsius and dosing CO2. My Oto cats die at average age of 5 years. Black neon tetras, 4 years. A Rineloricaria sp., 6 years. There are several that died from diseases and accidents. But I think it's probably normal?

Try using another electrical outlet? I avoid plugging my solenoid into my UPS unit because it causes a rapid shuttling between on/off positions.

I think it has something to do with toxicity (metals/ph, etc, in tap water) too. Not serious enough to kill the fish or plants but enough to make the plants unhappy. Dirt helps balance out many issues, making things easier than with inert substrate.

He doesn't use it. Aquajournal.ro - Despre apa ‘my four meter long aquarium has no heater and the water temperature is not very high since it’s indoors. The temperature in winter is quite low inevitably’