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1000+

Quite busy preparing everything for moving, but somehow I did find time to make this schematic drawing:

R1Drkzo.jpg


I don't know whether it would make a difference, but would you use one 12000L/h pump or two 6000 L/h pump? Either way I'm ordering one extra just in case one breaks down, but why would either option be better?
 
Edvet said:
Why UV?
Click to expand...

The UV is because I have one:p I once bought one, because of a green water explosion. It's almost never on right now, but I'll install it on the next tank as well, just in case! (And maybe for organics control as well...)

Edvet said:
Why pH controler?
Click to expand...

The pH controller is more like a safety feature after losing lots of amano shrimps two times due to 'end-of-tank-dump'. Now if the CO2 runs too hard (EOT-dump), the pH controller shut off the CO2. I also think it gives me more steady CO2 values during the day as long as my KH isn't changing. I do not use the number on the screen for adjusting or anything, but 'I feel' this way my CO2 system is the most stable and safe there is. There is a second magnet valve on the regulator on the bottle to shut off CO2 at night. So this is the way I use it right now. If the KH would fluctuate, I would set the pH a little lower. That way it runs just like a CO2 unit without pH controller (KH independent), but it still prevents an EOT-dump:happy:
 
Yo-han said:
The UV is because I have one:p I once bought one, because of a green water explosion. It's almost never on right now, but I'll install it on the next tank as well, just in case! (And maybe for organics control as well...)
Click to expand...

I've got a UV to add to mine, mainly to kill parasites etc :thumbup:

I lost a few dwarf cichlids in my old tank due to parasites, preventions better than the cure. The cure not working anyway in this case :(:lol:

It needs to be run slowly though for this, and not like you'd run it for algae.

RE the pumps, I'd personally opt for 2. I know you're getting a back up, but if you're out for the day or weekend for example, the system will still be fine with no need to worry. The back up will only work when you actually notice it and install it, obviously.

I thought of something the other day as well, for my own system. I don't know how you're intending on plugging them in or wiring them up, but put each pump on a different circuit or extension. That way, if say the heater tripped or blew a fuse etc on one, the other pump would still continue to run, hopefully minimising any major catastrophes.
 
NC10 said:
It needs to be run slowly though for this, and not like you'd run it for algae.
Click to expand...

I know, it's not meant for killing diseases, I plan on quarantaining all fish this time! Learned my lessons with Camelanus! Lost a few beautiful dwarfs as well.

NC10 said:
I don't know how you're intending on plugging them in or wiring them up, but put each pump on a different circuit or extension.
Click to expand...

Wow, thats a great idea! I'll see whether that is possible;)
 
For those interested, this is the sump design I came up with:
7u4yvu7a.jpg


Filtersocks for mechanical filtration, Red-X filtermat for mechanical and biological (easy to clean) and Superbio (sintered glass) for biological. The CO2 and UV will most likely be plumbed into a bypass on one of the main pumps instead of a separate pumps like in the drawing.

Superbio:
uqabazeh.jpg


Air will be ran at night to improve filtration and purigen will be added to polish the water.

Please comment!
 
Edvet said:
Hou does the water get into the filtersocks?
Click to expand...

It flows over the first separator and into the socks. There is a small border at the end to prevent the water from flowing on and not passing through the socks. Off course not all the way up in case the filtersocks get clogged.

This way I can use more socks (clean them less often) and they are more easy accessible compared to using them below the overflow pipes! :)
 
sciencefiction said:
Maybe you can skip the trip to Malaysia :p He, he

On a serious note I can almost imagine how much planning and work is involved. I was exhausted setting up my last tank and not looking forward to another one on such a scale. It takes months before you can sit down and relax.
Click to expand...

Yes it does, but I feel it is part of the process; the desire to get it and eager is all part of the fun. When I was little I always said that one day I would own a 5m tank. Putting things in perspective, this is probably going to be that tank:p No way I can house a bigger tank the next 20 years, so this needs to be that dream tank, but on a smaller scale:D

Probably the main reason I want it to be 80cm depth is that I don't want it to be higher, and longer is impossible and I at least want 1000L. Call it stupid but it is a border that when I'm not making it that big, I'll probably regret it and always desire a bigger tank. I hope I satisfy that need now:p
 
Ha, ha, same with me. If or hopefully when I get a large, large tank I won't need money to spend on fish as I already have the damn clown loaches and a common plec waiting eagerly. I want an immersed plant setup mainly with some low light ferns, anubias, crypts and grasses as submerged. Though I've got convincing to do to use the spare bedroom for the size I want or move the sofa out of the way :)
 
Sump comments :meh::D

Not sure you need 4 heaters, but I'd have them in the last chamber anyway. There's no point in them heating the water in the first chamber, when it has to go through all the media losing heat and then being pumped to the tank. Plus, just think of the first section as your dirty chamber and the water getting cleaner as it goes along. The last chamber is obviously cleaner so is were you want all your gadgets & gizmos. You could even add a small heater hidden in the display, just in case.

I think the air is just unnecessary. Even in a normal setup you wouldn't need it, but in a sumped system you definitely won't need any extra oxygen added.

I don't understand why you're using filter socks, it's just a needless expense really. It would be just as easy to layer some cheap pond media in the same chamber to serve the same purpose. If you did go with the socks, depending on what micron you went with, you wouldn't really need the second section of mechanical filtration either.

You've already said you're running the Co2 and UV off the two pumps which is also what I'd do. No need for a third. You have the Co2 sensor in the sump though, I'd put this in the tank. Who cares what's in the sump really? For the same reason, I wouldn't inject the Co2 into the sump either. Just use an inline diffuser after the pump or a diffuser in the tank itself.

I'm not saying I'm right or wrong, but I think you're over thinking/engineering things. Like the section overflowing on to the filter socks for example. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. Simple is best :thumbup:

The water level is way too high too, you need to be running (and planning) the sump just above half full. At least so any water left in the weir if the pumps failed, would still leave you with room to not panic and cause a flood :nailbiting:

Choose to do as you wish with my opinions, at least I've made you think :lol::rolleyes:

:thumbup:
 
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NC10 said:
Sump comments :meh::D

Not sure you need 4 heaters, but I'd have them in the last chamber anyway. There's no point in them heating the water in the first chamber, when it has to go through all the media losing heat and then being pumped to the tank. Plus, just think of the first section as your dirty chamber and the water getting cleaner as it goes along. The last chamber is obviously cleaner so is were you want all your gadgets & gizmos. You could even add a small heater hidden in the display, just in case.

I think the air is just unnecessary. Even in a normal setup you wouldn't need it, but in a sumped system you definitely won't need any extra oxygen added.

I don't understand why you're using filter socks, it's just a needless expense really. It would be just as easy to layer some cheap pond media in the same chamber to serve the same purpose. If you did go with the socks, depending on what micron you went with, you wouldn't really need the second section of mechanical filtration either.

You've already said you're running the Co2 and UV off the two pumps which is also what I'd do. No need for a third. You have the Co2 sensor in the sump though, I'd put this in the tank. Who cares what's in the sump really? For the same reason, I wouldn't inject the Co2 into the sump either. Just use an inline diffuser after the pump or a diffuser in the tank itself.

I'm not saying I'm right or wrong, but I think you're over thinking/engineering things. Like the section overflowing on to the filter socks for example. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. Simple is best :thumbup:

The water level is way too high too, you need to be running (and planning) the sump just above half full. At least so any water left in the weir if the pumps failed, would still leave you with room to not panic and cause a flood :nailbiting:

Choose to do as you wish with my opinions, at least I've made you think :lol::rolleyes:

:thumbup:
Click to expand...

That is why I ask! please share all thoughts.

The idea of the 4 heaters is that if one 'sticks' in the on position (wouldn't be the first) it's not enough to overheat the system. And the other way around, if one breaks down, the others have spare enough to heat the system:) perhaps too safe, but I prefer to do it right this time! Killing all livestock to safe 5 bucks is not my idea of having a tank. Your the shepard, tend your flock accordingly!

The heaters in the first chamber is mainly because bacteria work harder in warmer water and the last chamber is more likely to run dry (not my biggest problem as turned out, but why shouldn't I place them in the first chamber?

Air is for degassing CO2 and extra oxygen for bacteria makes a huge difference in my current tank! Bacteria work harder when the pH is higher and extra oxygen will help them just as much! Why do you think Amano aerates at night? You can't talk me out of that one;P

The Red-X after the socks is of little mechanical filtration if the socks work. It's more biological and back up mechanical.

The pH probe will be in the overflow of the tank, good idea!

I calculated the extra water in the sump at about 125L. So my drawing shows a flood indeed. Need to redesign that! Thanks for the heads up!
 
I'm guessing you're running the heaters off a controller? STC-1000 for example. This will be the thing setting the temp, so if one did stick on it wouldn't matter, power would be cut as soon as the controller reached the temp you set. You'd be running them slightly higher then the desired temp anyway, just so they didn't cut out too early.

The difference in temp between the first and last chamber and it causing issues with optimum bacteria is nothing and not worth thinking about. Which cancels my original thought out really, but it still means they're not getting covered in crap being in the last chamber.

With the sheer size of the tank and sump, you'll have more than enough bacteria to cope without extra oxygenation, but if you're not going to be talked out of it, go for it :D
 
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