260 L planted tank, minimum maintenance

[Outzen]

Im re-entering the aquarium hobby after … urghh … 45 years absence. My goal is to setup a planted freshwater tank that requires a minimum of maintenance when its up and running.
Have for the past 3-4 months been reading up on the current aquarium world, and have arrived at the following list of equipment/actions I need to have in place prior to starting up the aquascaping;

1. Juwel vision 260 Led – Black aquarium
2. Custom made aquarium stand
3. Natural Aquarium (Dirted / Walsted method’ish)
4. Lights
5. Co2 setup, inline Co2 diffuser with Solenoid and ph controller
6. Temperature alarm
7. Low water alarm
8. External Canister Filter
9. Test Kit
10. Plan for a Water change scheme
11. Accessories
12. Plan for the Aquascaping

1. Juwel Vison 260 Led - OK​

   Aquarium ordered 2023-08-14 (the day that I write this)
   Expected delivery 28th Aug
   
   
2. Custom made table - OK
   Do not like the Juwel tables – too high for my tasting, and size would also be problematic for the room im going to place the aquarium in. Have had a blacksmith make a steel rack, and bought some nice oak wood – cut out in custom sizes. It has been expensive. But the table has been made, and levelled – so it is ready and waiting for the aquarium 😊
   
   
3. Natural aquarium.
   Walsted and Father Fish (you tuber) has been my main inspirations. Going for substrate as follows;
   Layer 0; 1 inch of Potting soil /dirt – without chemicals
   will supplement with som mud from a local lake – thinking abt 5 %
   not purchased yet
   Layer 1: 2 inches of black sand – JBL Sansibar Dark, 0.2 – 0.5 mm.
   Purchased – expected delivery 18th sep
   Layer 2: Black gravel – 2-5mm … unsure of brand – bought it second hand
   This will only be applied to part of the aquarium
   
   
4. Lights - Undecided
   - Standard comes with the Juwel aquarium
   Description: Multilux LED lighting technology from JUWEL. The replaceable 1047 mmt DAY and NATURE LED tubes create an optimum light spectrum, while saving up to 50% of energy in comparison to T5 at the same time. The MultiLux LED lighting system for the VISION 260 LED means that you can work on your aquarium in comfort, even when the lighting is switched on. The ultrasound-sealed light unit is 100 percent waterproof and fulfils the stringent European safety standards.
   - Have not yet investigated if I will be satisfied with the standard light … and most important, what I need for my setup 😊
   
   
5. Co2 Setup - Undecided
   
   - Co2 containers: Undecided
   Expect to buy 2 - Want small sized, but ofcause with standard configuration (fittings), refillable
   - co2 regulator: Undecided
   Dual gauges (cylinder pressure & outlet pressure) , needle valve, 12V DC Solenoid, Bubble counter (with check valve)
   - PH Controller, Undecided
   incl. PH needle- able to control the Co2 regulater so that Co2 is automatically adjusted after the current PH value. Must be able to set the bubble rate to a maximum – say a level corresponding to 1 PH drop, so in case of PH controller is failing, Co2 injection will be limited. Have red this and not sure I fully understand it yet – Know that ph will drop when Co2 is injected, and understand that if the PH controller fails, Co2 will be pumped into the aquarium regardless of the PH level. So if I didn’t have the controller I would set the Solenoid after a timer together with the aquarium light … its fine using the needle pin valve to limit the input of Co2, but would like to be able to fall back to only inject Co2 during “daylight” … so maybe I need a timer to control this – before the Solenoid and the PH controller kicks in!
   - Drop checker, Undecided
   Unsure if I need a drop checker – for backup, when using a PH Controller with the Solenoid.
   - Monitoring, Undecided
   Would like to be able to see graphs of ph and other measurements for say the last week, and ofcause also to be able to monitor if everything seems to be right with PH, Co2, temp a.o.
   Have heard abt a Felix Smart Controller – sounds like it can do what im looking for – not in doubt that it is an overkill for my setup, but think that it can provide me with insights that in the long run can save me time 😊
   
   
6. Temperature alarm
   Have bought an INKBIRD Wi-Fi Temperature Controller ITC-306T-WIFI × 1
   To use this for a redundancy setup, I plan to put in 2 heaters, that individually is undersized for the aquarium. Havent received it yet though, so need to look further into how to set this up before I sell the heater that comes with the Juwel and buy 2 new undersized heaters 😊
   Heaters: Undecided
   
   
7. Low water alam: Undecided
   Have seen a DYV solution (Do It Your self), but will go for finden an alarm system I can buy. What I want to accomplish is a warning if the water reaches a certain level, in case some water are running back via the tubing – want to be able to avoid a flooded flor if there is a “silent” (small) water leak in the system. Need to make sure that the closet surrounding the tubing underneath the aquarium can hold enough water so that an alarm/warning can prevent water from reaching the floor.
   
   
8. External Canister Filter: Undecided
   Not sure yet what to buy – intend to buy second hand, and do not intend to remove the internal filter that comes with the Juwel. Think that I might be able to use the Juwel filter as a sponge filter – but will have to investigate how I can make this of some kind of use … either way, like to have it as backup should something go wrong. The main purpose of the external filter will be to inject Co2 – and of oxygen, until I have a balance aquarium (if that ever happens). Also I need to consider having some flow in the tank, so maybe turning it off at some stage will not be an option.
   Spec demand: It must be very quiet.
   
   
9. Test kit: Undecided
   Have looked at “JBL proaquaset Combiset Plus NH4” but not in depth.
   Got these advices from the planted tank forum:
   SmellyDeli: Probably won't use O2, Cu, or SiO2 tests much; if at all. IMO most consumer copper test kits don't read low enough to troubleshoot possible copper toxicity. So it's only useful if you're using copper based medications or algaecides to confirm the concentration is correct. And even then, we try to avoid using those as much as possible. Ammonia and nitrite kits are useful when starting a new aquarium cycle from scratch. After the thank is established and mature it's rarely used unless something goes wrong. Nitrate, GH and PO4 are used pretty regularly. Fe is also interesting to use.
   … and
   zohsix said: +1 for what SmellyDeli says. I set up my first and only planted aquarium in January and obsessed over water testing. Looking back, I really only needed to test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate during the first few months as the tank cycled. Once the tank was cycled I've really only used nitrate and TDS to signal when a water change was needed, usually every seven to ten days. I've maintained a log of every test and water change since setting up the tank and feel very comfortable with my parameters. Watch your plants growth and the fish's behavior for indications of tank health. Relax and enjoy your aquarium.
   
   
10. Water change scheme: Undecided
    Expect only to be topping off when aquarium is up and running, so this would be for the short term.
    My concerns are the water quality. Have been given data from the local authorities – and it seems that I can expect different suppliers, so have to plan for how I will perform testing, heating of the water prior to entering the tank, and possibly also adding minerals/chemicals in that process.
    Need also to consider bying practical things like a bucket – and/or possibly some sort of tubing from the water tap to a temporary sump – where I can perform the measuring and initiater transfer of water to the tank.
    Do not have a lot of space in the “aquarium room” so will have to think of how to set this up for an interim period of time.
    
    
11. Accessories: Undecided
    Would be nice to have a list of practical accessories/tools, like tubes, valves, plant sicissors etc.
    • Tools for planting plants
12. Plan for aquascapeing: Undecided
    • Bottom Levels: Currently I have an idea of making different levels in the aquarium, and have bought some pvc to be able to put In as a separator – seen it used on a youtube video – cant remember which though. Probably need to experiment a little with it.

These are my preliminary thoughts – feel free to comment or suggest items/areas that you think I need to consider 😊

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,
Welcome to UKAPS. If you want a low maintenance set-up you are probably best without CO2.

Cheers Darrel

 

[Tim Harrison]

Welcome
If the Juwel aquarium is new, with its filter and lights etc intact, I'd just plug in and play. They're pretty good systems especially for low-energy, no CO2. You really don't need anything else. Spend your money on plants instead.

 

[papa_c]

Welcome and definitely agree with the comment so far, in my mind I think of it like this, high energy is high maintenance (co2, generally high light levels, strict fert regime, big water changes, fast growth and much trimming) low energy reduces much of the above. I high energy the Vision 260 will see you need to be changing circa 200l of water per week.

 

[Wookii]

Co2 Setup - Undecided

I agree with the other comments, if you want simplicity avoid CO2 and run with the stock Jewel system. The lighting should be plenty for a low tech tank.

Test kit: Undecided

You can just delete this section really - testing is largely pointless in the majority of cases. Sure, you can test for ammonia in the start up phase, but the far simpler and better strategy is just to get the plants actively growing, and not add any livestock for 6 weeks or so after planting.

Water change scheme: Undecided
Expect only to be topping off when aquarium is up and running, so this would be for the short term.

Water changes are a crucial maintenance element for most tanks. You should be considering 10-20% weekly a minimum otherwise your tank may suffer in the long run, and you should consider it mandatory if you are planning to have any livestock. I know you have mentioned the Walsted approach, which is fine if you want to experiment, but do it without livestock and prepare for a rocky road ahead.

As you are in the set-up stage, consider if you can connect your room to your mains water and waste system (from adjacent kitchens or bathrooms). If you are able to bring those right to the tank it will make water changes much less labour intensive than dealing with buckets and hosepipes, if that is you concern and the reason for avoiding water changes.

Accessories: Undecided

Not really an 'accessory', but plan for a complete fertilizer for your plants. This is a fertiliser that contains both macro (NPK) and micro nutrients. Many commercial bottled ferts omit key macro nutrients. Something like 2hr Aquarist APT EI might be available locally to you and is a slightly better value option. Once the tank is up and running you can look at cheaper options when that first bottle needs replacing - there are plenty of resources on this forum to assist with that when the time comes.

 

[erwin123]

Welcome and definitely agree with the comment so far, in my mind I think of it like this, high energy is high maintenance (co2, generally high light levels, strict fert regime, big water changes, fast growth and much trimming) low energy reduces much of the above. I high energy the Vision 260 will see you need to be changing circa 200l of water per week.

For a high energy setup, I believe that one should do at least one 50% water change + maintenance every fortnight (which is my current maintenance regime). Anything more frequent than that is probably "nice to have" if you have the time, but if you don't fortnightly is ok.

As I use hoses for water change, it doesn't take much time - more time is spent doing tank maintenance - cleaning, trimming etc.
If you want lower maintenance, go for slow(er) growing plants like Ammannia Pedicatella, Ludwigia Sphaerocarpa, Bucephelandra, etc

 

[Wookii]

For a high energy setup, I believe that one should do at least one 50% water change + maintenance every fortnight

The water change should be weekly - obviously experience, and knowledge of the requirements for individual tank allows us to flex that a little, but for someone new to a high energy set-up management should be prescriptive, and water changes being part of that, are weekly.

 

[Conort2]

Hi all,
Welcome to UKAPS. If you want a low maintenance set-up you are probably best without CO2.

Cheers Darrel

Agreed, it certainly won’t be low maintenance if you go the CO2 route.

 

[_Maq_]

Frankly, you've made choices that will push you very far from "minimum maintenance". You'll end up sorely disappointed with this approach.
Others have already mentioned CO2 injection. That is clearly incompatible with lazy approach.
I would add the substrate. You've chosen a way which is not easy to handle. Walstad's recipes sometimes work but you must be lucky or know precisely what you're doing. In most cases, a disaster develops within several months and you'll have to rebuild the tank completely. Minimum maintenance = pure silica sand.
Also, you do not mention the quality of input water. Water makes all the difference! What is your tap water like? If it's hard, have you considered getting reverse osmosis?
One more thing: Do not be too concerned about filtration. Biological filtration is far less important than filter manufacturers say. What is important is to ensure water movement - to bring oxygen, carbon dioxide, and nutrients into every corner of your tank. Also the water surface should be moving to ensure intensive gas exchange (O2, CO2).

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Have looked at “JBL proaquaset Combiset Plus NH4” but not in depth.

You can just delete this section really - testing is largely pointless in the majority of cases. Sure, you can test for ammonia in the start up phase, but the far simpler and better strategy is just to get the plants actively growing, and not add any livestock for 6 weeks or so after planting.

We like <"plant and wait">, it does away with a <"lot of the uncertainty"> to do with <"water testing">. Some members <"will test their water">, and some won't, there <"isn't a right or wrong answer">.

Im re-entering the aquarium hobby after … urghh … 45 years absence

Things have really moved on, although you wouldn't always know this from forums etc. Have a look at <"Dr Timothy Hovanec's comments about Bacterial supplements"> and <"Correspondence with Dr Ryan Newton - School of Freshwater Sciences, University of Wisconsin—Milwaukee">.

cheers Darrel

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,
I should have linked in <"Seasoned Tank Time">.

Walsted and Father Fish (you tuber) has been my main inspirations.

I should have done this one as well. I've got a lot of time for <"Diana Walstad">, but she did revise some of her advice after "The Ecology of the Planted Aquarium" was published. <"Walstad revises">.

Father Fish is a bit <"more of a mixed bag"> and I don't agree with all of his advice. Personally I like regular small volume water changes and @_Maq_'s <"sand substrate">.

You might be interested in the "Aquarium Science" web site, it isn't great on planted tanks, but it makes an interesting read.

I'm obviously not <"an entirely objective reviewer">, but I would be a lot keener on following the advice offered by UKAPS members, when compared to other sources. Have a look at <"The scientific background to the "Leaf Colour Chart"">.

cheers Darrel

 

[Outzen]

Thks for all the comments/suggestions ... quit a bit to digest ... especially because you are asking me to fundamentally revise my approach - and its probably good advice ...
I thought that using Co2 was necessary when starting up the tank, to supplement plant growth and also one of the ways to control ph levels (auto co2 injection based on ph levels), but I have no doubt that I will need to spend time on setting it up and getting it right. I will revise this point, and follow the advice to start up the tank with the standard juwel gear ... and plants - for 6 weeks (or more).
But would want to test the water before putting livestock in it. Will get data from the water supply and expose them here, so maybe some of you guys can help me decide what to measure for
Also, if not using co2 - without the fish poop and fish food remains (phosphorus and nitrogen), wont the plants be short of nutrients in the "start up fase"?

/Jakob

 

[LMuhlen]

Also, if not using co2 - without the fish poop and fish food remains (phosphorus and nitrogen), wont the plants be short of nutrients in the "start up fase"?

Availability of nutrients and CO2 are not interchangeable. If anything, the more CO2 you add, the more nutrients the plants need.

A low maintenance tank is a tank in which the plants don't grow too fast, so you don't have to trim them all the time. If you select plants that grow slowly or you create an overall environment where plants grow slowly, they will need less nutrients to stay healthy, as a general rule. It is possible that you'll have all the nutrients required coming from your tap water, but you could also dose ferts every now and then, keeping a lean regime.

 

[Wookii]

But would want to test the water before putting livestock in it. Will get data from the water supply and expose them here, so maybe some of you guys can help me decide what to measure for

I don't think you'll find many on here suggesting any test kit measurement, beyond perhaps ammonia before adding livestock, but again:

the far simpler and better strategy is just to get the plants actively growing, and not add any livestock for 6 weeks or so after planting.

Also . . .

Also, if not using co2 - without the fish poop and fish food remains (phosphorus and nitrogen), wont the plants be short of nutrients in the "start up fase"?

Not really an 'accessory', but plan for a complete fertilizer for your plants. This is a fertiliser that contains both macro (NPK) and micro nutrients. Many commercial bottled ferts omit key macro nutrients. Something like 2hr Aquarist APT EI might be available locally to you and is a slightly better value option. Once the tank is up and running you can look at cheaper options when that first bottle needs replacing - there are plenty of resources on this forum to assist with that when the time comes.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

I thought that using Co2 was necessary when starting up the tank, to supplement plant growth

That is why Diana Walstad suggested a plant with access to atmospheric gases, this is the <"aerial advantage">. An <"emergent plant"> would be best, but not all aquariums can accommodate these and a <"floating plant"> also fulfils this requirement. As a general rule we recommend the <"Tropica Easy"> range of plants as plants that will do well low tech.

and also one of the ways to control ph levels (auto co2 injection based on ph levels),

<"Adding CO2"> causes a depression of pH, by changing the equilibrium point of <"the pH ~ CO2 ~ HCO3 relationship">, but it doesn't change the alkalinity. Have a look at the <"Bouncy Castle"> analogy.

....... Will get data from the water supply and expose them here, so maybe some of you guys can help me decide what to measure for

<"Water quality data"> is always useful.

But would want to test the water before putting livestock in it.

Yes, I think we can all agree that <"we don't want to expose"> our fish to ammonia (NH3) or nitrite (NO2-). Some people will be happier testing the water, personally I'm happy to create <"robust, stable planted tanks"> with extensive <"plant / microbe"> biofiltration.

without the fish poop and fish food remains (phosphorus and nitrogen), wont the plants be short of nutrients in the "start up fase"?

What @Wookii says. I use the <"Duckweed Index"> as my indication of when to feed, others <"will add nutrients"> on a regular basis.

Not really an 'accessory', but plan for a complete fertilizer for your plants. This is a fertiliser that contains both macro (NPK) and micro nutrients. Many commercial bottled ferts omit key macro nutrients. Something like 2hr Aquarist APT EI might be available locally to you and is a slightly better value option. Once the tank is up and running you can look at cheaper options when that first bottle needs replacing - there are plenty of resources on this forum to assist with that when the time comes

cheers Darrel

 

[Tim Harrison]

Also check out the Tutorial and Articles section. Aside from a mine of info, you'll find a tutorial on how to set up a low-energy dirted system. However, if you dose water column fertz, sand is a good low maintenance alternative to soil, which in time will accumulate organic matter and act like a soil.

Soil Substrate or Dirted Tank - A How to Guide

 

[Outzen]

Thks again - Just red the "The Soil Substrate Planted Tank - a How to Guide.." ... Im keen to adopt this approach, only concern is that the article is from 2011

 

[Wookii]

Im keen to adopt this approach, only concern is that the article is from 2011

Luckily for us, plants haven't changed their requirements for growth in the intervening 12 years

 

[Outzen]

Above feedback made me rethink the whole setup. Im still aiming at a dirted tank, but now trying to go for a low tech aquarium, ie skipping the Co2 – which I thought I needed in the startup fase, but instead im going for planting the tank heavily and wait with the fish until there is a good eco balance in the tank. Ofcause that balance will also depend on fish, scrimps and snails … but have been adviced to wait with the fish until things settles. I will probably have to supply with ferts and maybe other stuff (ammonia) in the startup fase, but hopefully I can do without additives in the long run, if I achieve some sort of eco balance in the aquarium. Have red about the “food web” which sounds interesting … but I will have to see how things develop, before venturing down that road 😊

My revised list of actions/equipment looks as follows;

1. Juwel Vison 260 Led - OK
   Aquarium ordered 2023-08-14 (the day that I write this)
   Expected delivery 28th Aug
   
   
2. Custom made table/cabinet - OK
   Do not like the Juwel tables – too high for my tasting, and size would also be problematic for the room im going to place the aquarium in. Have had a blacksmith make a steel rack, and bought some nice oak wood – cut out in custom sizes. It has been expensive. But the table has been made, and levelled – so it is ready and waiting for the aquarium 😊
   
   
3. Substrate.
   Going for a dirted Aquarium (Walsted method’ish);
   
   Layer 0; 1 inch of Potting soil /dirt – without chemicals
   will supplement with som mud from a local lake – thinking abt 5 %
   not purchased yet
   Layer 1: 2 inches of black sand – JBL Sansibar Dark, 0.2 – 0.5 mm.
   Purchased – expected delivery 18th sep
   Layer 2: Black gravel – 2-5mm … unsure of brand – bought it second hand
   This will only be applied to part of the aquarium
   
   
4. Lights - Undecided
   - Standard comes with the Juwel aquarium
   Description: Multilux LED lighting technology from JUWEL. The replaceable 1047 mmt DAY and NATURE LED tubes create an optimum light spectrum, while saving up to 50% of energy in comparison to T5 at the same time. The MultiLux LED lighting system for the VISION 260 LED means that you can work on your aquarium in comfort, even when the lighting is switched on. The ultrasound-sealed light unit is 100 percent waterproof and fulfils the stringent European safety standards.
   • Have not yet investigated if I will be satisfied with the standard light … and most important, what I need for my setup 😊
   • Also need to plan a scheme for startup, ie how many hours with lights on, intensity and how to control this – not sure if the lights come with a timer or if I have to buy this separately … but enough time to find ou – not planning to start planting on day one … it will probably be on day 14 (need to plan the aquascaping first).
   
   
5. Filter - OK.
   Will probably settle with the filter that comes with the Juwel tank.
   Spec demand: It must be very quiet.
   
   
6. Water Column
   
   Live in a flat in the city (CPH). Water is supplied from several different units, hence tap water water parametres will vary. Have checked the announced values and looks like this;
   PH at 25 C: 7.2 – 7.9
   Ammonium+ammoniak, NH4+ : 0.05 mg/Lit
   Chlorid: < 250 mg/Lit
   Fluorid < 1.5 mg/Lit
   Iron: < 0.2 mg/Lit
   Nitrat: < 50 mg/Lit
   Nitrit: < 0.1 mg/Lit
   NVOC: < 4 mg/Lit
   Phosphor, total: < 0.15 mg/Lit
   Sulfat: < 250 mg/Lit
   
   So will probably need to try to lower the ph so it comes aoround 6.8 (Rams/Chilli Rasbora/Kuhli loach)
   
   Low water alam
   A remedy from my initial approach for this plan. Now it seemes that I will not need an external canister/filter, and if there is no other permanent tubing from which leaks could occur, then ofcause there is no need for a low water alarm. But will keep until im sure its not needed.
   
   Temperature/heaters - Undecided:
   Have bought an INKBIRD Wi-Fi Temperature Controller ITC-306T-WIFI × 1
   To use this for a redundancy setup, I plan to put in 2 heaters, that individually is undersized for the aquarium. Havent received it yet though, so need to look further into how to set this up before I sell the heater that comes with the Juwel and buy 2 new undersized heaters 😊
   Temperature alarm – Will see if its possible to use the wifi temp controller to some kind of alarm setup
   
   Fertilizers / Additives, Undecided
   
   Water quality Monitoring, Undecided
   Would like to be able to see graphs of ph and other measurements for say the last week, and ofcause also to be able to monitor if everything seems to be right with PH, Co2, temp a.o.
   Have heard abt a Felix Smart Controller – sounds like it can do what im looking for – not in doubt that it is an overkill for my setup, but think that it can provide me with insights that in the long run can save me time 😊
   
   
7. Water change scheme: In progress
   
   Initial plan – after seeing a lot of youtubes on natural aqauriums, where many youtubers recommend not doing water changes, besides just topping. Was to adapt this approach as one of my goals is to setup a low maintenance aqauarim.
   But again – was discouraged by the many comments I got from the UKaps forum, I have revised the plan.
   
   How to (the practicalities).
   It is not an option for me, connecting a hose to the tapwater in the bathroom (or kitchen). In stead Im aiming for a system which will help me perform the water changes without too much hassle (= low maintenance).
   
   Im planning place a plastic tank in the aquarium cubboard and put a pump, a heater and some kind of fixed temperature measure in the tank. The available room is 30x40x50 cm (DxHXL) which should enable me to place a tank up to 60 lit. According to Tim Harrison in the “Soil Substrate or Dirted Tank” article I will need to do a 20-30% water change every other week, which in my case corresponds to 52-78 litres.
   The extra tank could also be used for quarantine.
   
   Equipment for the extra tank:
   Pump - Undecided
   Could be this: hygger 215 GPH Quick Water Change Aquarium Pump - Amazon.
   Cannot find any info on “Max Lift Height”??
   Think this one looks better;
   Upettools Submersible Water Pump, Ultra Silence Circulation Multifunctional Water Pump with Handle For Pond, Aquarium, Hydroponics, Fish Tank Fountain with 4.6ft (1.4M) Power Cord(220GPH,25W) …lift height is 2 m.
   
   Tubes - Undecided
   Need a tube from the pump up to the aquarium, and a tube to use when I need to take water out of the aquarium
   
   Heater – Undecided
   OASE HeatUp 50 – should be sufficient for 60 Lit. (but maybe it will take to long to heat up 60 lit)
   
   Thermo – Undecided
   OASE Digital Akvarie Termometer
   
   Bucket/container - Undecided
   For use when taking water out of the tank. Thinking that if its foldable, I can place it in the plastic tank underneath the aquarium (when not in use).
   Think 20 Lit. plastic container
   
   
8. Test kit: Undecided
   Have looked at “JBL proaquaset Combiset Plus NH4” but not in depth.
   Got these advices from the planted tank forum:
   SmellyDeli: Probably won't use O2, Cu, or SiO2 tests much; if at all.
   IMO most consumer copper test kits don't read low enough to troubleshoot possible copper toxicity. So it's only useful if you're using copper based medications or algaecides to confirm the concentration is correct. And even then, we try to avoid using those as much as possible.
   Ammonia and nitrite kits are useful when starting a new aquarium cycle from scratch. After the thank is established and mature it's rarely used unless something goes wrong.
   Nitrate, GH and PO4 are used pretty regularly. Fe is also interesting to use.
   … and
   zohsix said: +1 for what SmellyDeli says. I set up my first and only planted aquarium in January and obsessed over water testing. Looking back, I really only needed to test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate during the first few months as the tank cycled. Once the tank was cycled I've really only used nitrate and TDS to signal when a water change was needed, usually every seven to ten days. I've maintained a log of every test and water change since setting up the tank and feel very comfortable with my parameters. Watch your plants growth and the fish's behavior for indications of tank health. Relax and enjoy your aquarium.
   
   
9. Accessories:
   Would be nice to have a list of practical accessories/tools, like tubes, valves, plant sicissors etc
   - Tools for planting plants
   • Quanrantine tank (will use the tank mentioned in the water change scheme para) – will need lights and air pump/filter.
   • UPETTOOLS Aquarium Light Full Spectrum Fish Tank Light Clip
   
   - Airpump (backup)
   Maybe a good idea to have a backup airpump -
   Maybe this: Upettools Submersible Water Pump
   
   - Algae remover magnet (10 mm glass)
   OASE algemagnet til 10 mm glass – floating if falling off
   
   - Auto Fish Feeding
   Oase FishGuard.
   
   
10. Plan for aquascapeing: In progress
    Bottom Levels: Currently I have an idea of making different levels in the aquarium, and have bought some pvc to be able to put In as a separator – seen it used on a youtube video – cant remember which though. Probably need to experiment a little with it.
    
    
11. Plants – Undecided
    From UKAps Forum: “erwin123 “ - quote” If you want lower maintenance, go for slow(er) growing plants like Ammannia Pedicatella, Ludwigia Sphaerocarpa, Bucephelandra, etc” unquote
    
    
12. Stokking
    Expect to shorten the below list, but this is currently my ideas:
    • 4 Rams - Mikrogeophagus ramirezi (DK: Sommerfulgle cichlider) 25.5-29.5 °C, 78-85 °F, water: slow-flowing , acidic (pH 5.2-6.7)

• 2 Golden Dwarf Cichlid - Nannacara anomala (DK: Gylden Dværgcichlide, Dværgacara)
  72-77°F (22-25°C), Acidic, but can tolerate moderately alkaline – 6 to 7.5, Prefer soft, but can tolerate moderately hard – from 3 to 8°dH
  
  or
• 2 Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid - Apistogramma Cacatuoides “Double Red”
  24 - 28° C
  
  
• 12-15 Red Phantom Tetra - Hyphessobrycon sweglesi (DK: Rød Fanto Tetra)
  Wiki: 20°C to 23°C (68°F to 73°F), water acidic (pH 6.5)
  Ser.Fish: 20 – 28 °C, pH: 4.5 – 7.5, Hardness: 18 – 215 ppm
  
  or
  
  5-7 Serpae Tetra - Hyphessobrycon eques (DK: Rød Serpae)
  72°F to 79°F, pH levels: 5 to 7.8, Water hardness: 5 to 25 dGH
• 20 Chili Rasbora, mosquito rasboras - Boraras brigittae (DK: Dværg Rasbora)
  25°C - 28°C , pH range: 6.5 - 7.0; dH range: ? - 10
• 6-8 Rusty Cory Catfish - Corydoras rabaut (DK: kobbermalle)
  25 °C (77 °F) to 27 °C (81 °F), pH range of 6.0 to 8.0
  
  or
• 6-8 Corydoras Sp. Black Venezuela
  72° - 82° F (22° - 28° C), pH: 6.0 - 7.5. Softer water is preferred, but this fish is somewhat flexible as long as sudden changes are avoided. KH: 2 - 15 dKH
  
  and/or
• 8-12 Corydoras. pygmaeus - pygmy cory (DK: dværg pansermalle)
  72–78°F (22–26°C), pH of 6.4–7.5 and moderately soft water.
  
  
• 4 Tiger Hillstream loach - Sewellia lineolate
  20 – 24 °C, pH: 6.0 – 7.5, Hardness: 18 – 179 ppm, size: 55-65 mm
• 2 Catfish (Otos) - Otocinclus sp. er en (DK: dværgsugemalle)
  22 - 28 c, pH: 6 - 8., size 4-5 cm
  70-79°F (21-26°C), pH of 6.0–7.5,
• 3 Red-Tailed Black Shark - Epalzeorhynchos bicolor (DK: Rødhalet Labeo)
  22 °C and 26 °C (72 °F and 79 °F) , pH between 6.8 and 7.5, water hardness 5 - 15 dH
• 3 Kuhli Loach - Pangio kuhlii (DK: Kuhli ål)
  75 – 86 °F (24 – 30 °C) , 5.5 – 6.5 pH-but will tolerate 7.0 pH in aquaria, a water hardness of 5.0 dGH
  
  
• 10 Zebra Nerite Snail - Neritina natalensis
  65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit, pH level range: 6.5 to 8.5, kH 12-18; gH 12-18
  sensitive to copper, do not tolerate water with high nitrate levels, need a decent amount of calcium in their water to maintain their shell health
  Several members of the planted tank forum is recommending not to keep Nerite Snails because they plaster the glass and everything else with eggs.
• 10 Tiger Shrimp - Caridina cf cantonensis
  76–78°F. slightly acidic-to-neutral water
  or
• 10 Cardinal Shrimp - Caridina dennerli
  78 and 88°F, with a slightly alkaline pH.

Will not start stokking before the tank is properly cyceled – which afaik involves letting the plants grow and see if they are thriving before introducing fish/shrimps/snails.

Never had shrimps before – will start out with snails and shrimps and the Serpea or Phantom tetras.



These are my preliminary thoughts – version 2. Feel free to comment or suggest items/areas that you think I need to consider 😊

 

[_Maq_]

Honestly, some of my colleagues would not completely agree with my advice, but I maintain that if you want to create a "foolproof" low-maintenance tank, you should avoid all "improvements" regarding substrate. Pure silica sand proved to be a sufficient substrate in thousands and thousands of tanks, both low-tech and hi-tech.
Also, I have noticed that you are concerned with plant nutrition after the start-up. You don't have to be. Plants usually take their time before they begin growing. What they really need in the beginning is enough oxygen (yes, plants do need oxygen!) and few potential parasites and various chemicals in the water produced by microbes.
To make plants starving takes several weeks at least. To kill them by lack of oxygen and proliferation of microbes (thanks to abundant nutrients) takes days.