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A couple of CO2 system questions

sussex_cichlids said:
Also have you used PTFE (plumbers thread tape) on your threads i used this on every thread conection throw my whole systerm

Try this you may find it helps you can get the PTFE from most place only few quid
Click to expand...
Hi
I don't think your supposed to use plumbers tape on regulators....there is a few reasons why.
I cant remember all of them though...I think its in-case a small piece of detached tape gets pushed into the regulator.
Maybe someone else can jog my memory.
hoggie
 
hogan53 said:
hogan53 said:
Hi
Turn the working pressure knob up to try and get it up 2 bar.
hoggie
Click to expand...
Sorry ballsed that up...If you have a key switch on the solenoid and use the key to increase the working pressure.
hoggie
Click to expand...

The solenoid is plugged into a digital timer?

I assume you mean turn the working pressure on the reg up to 2bar - I take it that is the same as 2kg/cm3? - I'll do that & see.

I may be going for an inline diffuser, so guess I'll need to increase to at least that anyway.

I seem to remember re the PTFE tape, so will leave that for now.
 
chrisjj said:
hogan53 said:
hogan53 said:
Hi
Turn the working pressure knob up to try and get it up 2 bar.
hoggie
Click to expand...
Sorry ballsed that up...If you have a key switch on the solenoid and use the key to increase the working pressure.
hoggie
Click to expand...

The solenoid is plugged into a digital timer?

I assume you mean turn the working pressure on the reg up to 2bar - I take it that is the same as 2kg/cm3? - I'll do that & see.

I may be going for an inline diffuser, so guess I'll need to increase to at least that anyway.

I seem to remember re the PTFE tape, so will leave that for now.
Click to expand...
Manually switch on your timer so the solenoid opens then increase the working pressure.
 
Chris
You are correct will need about 2 bar to run a UP in-line atomiser.
So best get this sorted first.
I like the look of that regulator...the working pressure shouldn't fall much when everything is running smoothly.
Keep us posted. :thumbup:
hoggie
 
hogan53 said:
sussex_cichlids said:
Also have you used PTFE (plumbers thread tape) on your threads i used this on every thread conection throw my whole systerm

Try this you may find it helps you can get the PTFE from most place only few quid
Click to expand...
Hi
I don't think your supposed to use plumbers tape on regulators....there is a few reasons why.
I cant remember all of them though...I think its in-case a small piece of detached tape gets pushed into the regulator.
Maybe someone else can jog my memory.
hoggie
Click to expand...

Ive been using PTFE tape on CO2 bottle thread for 6 years with no problem not sure how you can come to conclusion you shouldn't use it it designed for this use also if applied properly its trapped between two threads and cannot block the pipe never herd this or seen any problem with using PTFE tape
 
Ive been using PTFE tape on CO2 bottle thread for 6 years with no problem not sure how you can come to conclusion you shouldn't use it it designed for this use also if applied properly its trapped between two threads and cannot block the pipe never herd this or seen any problem with using PTFE tape[/quote]

I've read that you're not meant to use it either - its designed for plumbing (i.e. water). For any pressurised system the rubber/plastic o-rings provide the seal not the thread. If gas is leaking from the thread then you need to replace your o-rings.

The new style UP in-line atomisers need a slightly higher pressure than 2 bar. These are the ones that are perfectly cylindrical and you can unscrew the top to clean the inside.
 
I set the pressure to 2 bar (2 kg/cm3) last night - crazy amount of gas, so adjusted the needle.

Somewhere between 5 & 10 bps, but the dropchecker went green so all fine.

Will see what happens today when I get in from work......
 
Hi Chris
Nice one your on the road to success :thumbup:
Can you give us a heads up on the accuracy of the needle valve is it stable.....will it do 1 bubble a second without any fluctuations.
Cheers
hoggie
 
hogan53 said:
Hi Chris
Nice one your on the road to success :thumbup:
Can you give us a heads up on the accuracy of the needle valve is it stable.....will it do 1 bubble a second without any fluctuations.
Cheers
hoggie
Click to expand...

You're asking me to mess around with the needle when I'm trying to get it stable!!! :lol:

Will do - I had it steady a 2bps when first set up. Then steady at 3bps when drop checker wasn't changing, then 4 & then 5, so from my limited experience, I'm guessing it's pretty stable. It stayed at what ever I set it whilst it was on - so several hours. Just that the next day it dropped (eg from 5bps to 3bps) - but guessing that's the pressure issue rather than the needle.
 
p1100985.jpg
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Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/img]

pic of set up for comment.
 
Thanks susssex!

It's been a few days now & the pressure seems to be stable now it's set at 2 bar, bubble counter stable, drop checker going green - all good :thumbup:

Got to start dealing with the algae now!
 
Hi Chriss

Thats ok mate

Sometime the easyest and only way to sort the algae out is to have a full 4 day blackout that should help knock it on the head some members may have few other tricks you can try
 
Hi Chris
Nice set-up. :thumbup:
Lower your lighting levels and you will get shot of your algae now.
As long as you keep your Co2 levels stable in conjunction with feeding your plants .....and doing regular water changes.
hoggie
 
sussex_cichlids said:
Try editing your post
p1100985.jpg


You need to remove the two red bits ive marked in the code below your image will then work



Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/img]
Click to expand...

That powerhead looks like it will interfere with flow from the spray bar. Maybe try having the spray bar shorter and on the same side as the tank blowing across and right.
 
Tried that, but it left the bottom left of the tank dead.

The LHS powerhead is positioned just below the spraybar, angled towards the rear, so pushes water along the back of the tank, to the right. The spraybar flow goes over the powerhead, so I still get good flow from it towards the front, so getting to the bottom left.

The powerhead on the RHS is angled slightly towards the front - this is only on for a few hours a day.

With this set up, I get good circular flow from the spraybar - rear the front (top), down the front & front to rear (bottom) and good clockwise "whirlpool" flow from the powerheads.

It appears to have good flow in all areas with this set up.

I haven't needed to touch the reg pressure or needle valve since my last post, so that's good.

(I set the bubble counter to 1 bps for a while, & it seemed to be pretty steady)
 
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