A noob vs some hardest plants

[eminor]

try adding some Iron Gluconate. what ppm of Mg and Mn are you currently adding?

would like, but i dont have, i only have edta csm+b right now.

For the mn i use colombo flora grow, they tell 0.02%, which is nearly nothing, with csm+b i target 0.1 ppm Mn. For the magnesium, if i change 10 liters, i add 5 ppm Mg for the 10 liters changed not the global volume.

Well nitrate is a mobile nutrient so I would say iron is most likely if it’s a new growth issue, and would try an increase there first.

I understand that an Mn deficiency can also show up as chlorosis but it’s a less likely candidate, so would give the Fe a try.

I’ve found it to correct fairly quickly if that is the issue.

Thanks, it's weird there is no sign of iron deficiency in the way that there is no strong green veins on the leaves

 

[eminor]

What is your gh and kh? For softer water 0.08 Fe dtpa should be sufficient.

GH is 5, KH is 2, i thought it would be enough too but plant seems to tell me otherwise. I now switched to EDTA because there is only few days in the dtpa bottle, so i target 0.25 ppm iron, i added less than 0.1ppm with DTPA when i used it

 

[Happi]

with csm+b i target 0.1 ppm Mn

in your other post you wrote that you add 0.08 ppm Fe weekly, but if you were dosing csm+b to target 0.1 ppm Mn, this would also add 0.35 Fe. please clarify

 

[eminor]

in your other post you wrote that you add 0.08 ppm Fe weekly, but if you were dosing csm+b to target 0.1 ppm Mn, this would also add 0.35 Fe. please clarify

Until today i added colombo flowgrow which is a micro nutrients fertilizer, pump is not the best but i'm sure that i added more than 0.06 ppm iron dtpa weekly so 0.008 ppm daily.

i now use EDTA micro powder, i actually never found the exact powder i have for micro

Composition : Fe 8,4% ; Mn 2% ; Zn 1.15% ; B 0.9% ; Cu 0.23% ; Mo 0.15%

i used rotala butterfly to reach 0.5 iron ppm weekly but i managed to have lots of room since i need 4 pump to reach the desired daily ppm which is 0.071 ppm, but since i don't exactly know the powder brand, i've seen that tnc trace is fairly close, 8.2% iron if i remember

 

[Happi]

Composition : Fe 8,4% ; Mn 2% ; Zn 1.15% ; B 0.9% ; Cu 0.23% ; Mo 0.15%

but since i don't exactly know the powder brand, i've seen that tnc trace is fairly close, 8.2% iron if i remember

how did you get those numbers listed in the Composition ? can you take a picture of the Product including the labels?

 

[eminor]

how did you get those numbers listed in the Composition ? can you take a picture of the Product including the labels?

here, there was no label, just micro powder in a bag

 

[eminor]

Looks like it was a Mn deficiency, i tried to add only Fe, nothing changed, i was tired of deficiency and since i have only sand i wanted to go back to estimative index, it's been 6 days and plants start to show muscles, specially the tuberculatum which for the first time have nice shape and color !!

The pelia is getting too big, the new rotala stem are green/orange. the Walichii looks so pink because there's some white deficiency leaves i think. Weird that tuberculatum stem isn't stunted. I'll see if i can grow a bunch of tuberculatum now

For macro i use : KNO3, K2SO4 50%, KCL 50%, KH2PO4 // 0.1 ppm urea
Water change day : 4:1 CaCl2/MgSO4 (different bottle)
Micro : easylife Profito ~= FE 0.6 ppm / week

Funny that reineckii mini have better color since i dose EI, can't see on pictures but looks like she have a kind of gloss on the new leaves. Same thing when i dose tropica specialized nutrition on other tanks, specialy the cryptocoryne species, they have kind of gloss too, don't know why though.

Since tuberculatum grow, does that mean that i'm in the high light field ?

 

[eminor]

I don't know if somebody cares, but i'll update lol

So i use 100% rain water, dKH should be near 0 and GH is lower than 4, iron deficiency seems gone with profito, some white leaves plant have new green one. @GHNelson (i think) told me that tetra initial sticks might be good with sand so i put them, 5 stick near difficult plants, it's been a week so, too soon. I have some rare plant, syngonanthus sp rio, which seems to be really hard, it's been almost a week and the leaves stay green and there is some new growth, will see in the long term. i also have rotala mancadra type 4 which turn red and grow fine. i trimmed tuberculatum there is lot of new stem, walichii is not growing much...
Blyxa japonica is now in too, she seems a slow plant, but there is new leaves, will see too

I had trouble growing the red stem myriophyllum in sand back then, it seems healthy now. I think i'll switch to RO water before the summer because summer rain water is bad...

The plant that have the most trouble is ammania golden, maybe the stem is not good anymore, but she won't grow in sand, i had no trouble in fluval stratum even with hard water. The reineckii have so much fun in that tank

 

[eminor]

Hi, a week later

Rotala's : rotala orange juice/ indica continue to grow really well, the 2 weeks macandra mini type '4' seems in good shape. The walichii is coming back to life, at least 10 new stems in really good color

Myriophyllum's : The red stem is a weed, i need to trim it often, she grow like 2 inch a day, the tuberculatum is growing slowly but nicely, no stunt and good colors

Blyxa Japonica: this one is a mystery, i can't tell if there is new growth, maybe she need time to settle in there ?

Tonina rio negro : she's still green but i can seen more yellow on the tips of old leave, i still have hope because i can see a root on the bottom of the stem going to the sand, is that good sign ?
I also use RO water ( 12 ppm) she have lots of co2, the only thing that can bother her is that the soil pH is neutral, maybe tetra initial sticks will help her.

I already can see the Tetra initial sticks effect on lots of plant, seems promising, for the first time of my life the tank is almost algae free !! It's funny because plant that drive me crazy yesterday like pogostemon erectus are easy now, maybe i progress after all

Sorry for my bad english, i try to do my best

 

[hypnogogia]

Sorry for my bad english, i try to do my best

No worries, we understand you, and you’re putting in the effort to communicate in a second language.

 

[Happi]

Sorry for my bad english, i try to do my best

don't worry about the language, the most important and valuable thing to me is that you are putting lot of efforts into these experiments.

 

[MichaelJ]

don't worry about the language, the most important and valuable thing to me is that you are putting lot of efforts into these experiments.

Definitely! Its always great to follow your updates and see your progress @eminor!

Cheers,
Michael

 

[Hanuman]

Sorry for my bad english, i try to do my best

Your English level is far and above 99.9% of Frenchman's English literacy. 😂 - For the haters, I am French as well, so I am allowed to say that. 🤣

 

[hypnogogia]

Your English level is far and above 99.9% of Frenchman's English literacy. 😂 - For the haters, I am French as well, so I am allowed to say that. 🤣

😂

and how far above Englishman’s French literacy?

 

[Hanuman]

😂

and how far above Englishman’s French literacy?

I'll have the decency to leave that assessment to an Englishman. 😂

 

[eminor]

Your English level is far and above 99.9% of Frenchman's English literacy. 😂 - For the haters, I am French as well, so I am allowed to say that. 🤣

I learned way more the langage on the internet than at school, my english skill are still too low, but yes my fellow french people are really bad with English lol. But they miss so much because without english i wouldn't have found that board and there is no board similar in French, never seen so much skilled guys in that hobby.

Sometimes when i go to buy some aquarium plants, i see some tanks with lots of algae problem, and now i can see more clearly what's wrong, it's been months since they try to fix a tank, that tank is an algae nightmare. I told them to reduce the light, to put some ferts regulary because they rely on the fish food which i read on this board that fish food can't feed plants well, there are lots of nutrients missing. They always tell me that they learned it at school which is true but it don't seems to work that fine.

When i can i try to help aquarium people but i'm miles away from the knowledge of some fellow here, those guy are machine lol

Back to the subject on this thread, is there anyone who know if it's normal for the tonina to be that way ? thx

 

[Hanuman]

is there anyone who know if it's normal for the tonina to be that way

In general, the yellowing on the older lower leaves of a plant is a sign of a mobile nutrient deficiency. The plant is redirecting some of the nutrients in favor of the younger tissue. Mobile nutrients are NPK Cl, Mg, Mo and Zn. Immobile ones are B, Ca, Cu, Fe, and S. I would bet it's probably an NPK deficiency considering you are using a sand.

 

[eminor]

In general, the yellowing on the older lower leaves of a plant is a sign of a mobile nutrient deficiency. The plant is redirecting some of the nutrients in favor of the younger tissue. Mobile nutrients are NPK Cl, Mg, Mo and Zn. Immobile ones are B, Ca, Cu, Fe, and S. I would bet it's probably an NPK deficiency considering you are using a sand.

Maybe because root haven't reached tetra sticks yet ? could be Mg because i only have 3 dGH because tonina grow in really soft water, KH is 0 though.

If i change 15 liters of water, i dose for the 15l so i add 3:1 Ca:Mg, Magnesium is 5ppm, maybe i should reach 5 ppm for the 40 liters ? is tonina really sensitive to GH ?

I fear that if i dose 5ppm for 40 liters after water change, the accumulation would rise enough to get 10 GH+, I tried the rotala accumulation tool but i don't know how much Mg the plant consume ?

Also, i only dose 5 ppm nitrogen (50% KNO3, 50% urea), Phosphates = 0.5 ppm, Potassium = 5 ppm, maybe i should increase a bit ?

 

[eminor]

Don' know if it's the tetra stick, the RO water, but seems that ammania golden is coming back from the dead, she send new roots, there is 2-3 new shoots, finger crossed. there is no cyanobacteria on the bottom, its tennelum plant which is so hard to remove

Lily pipe is so much better than classic inlet/outlet, the flow is perfect everywhere. If i manage to grow a tuberculatum bush, and the tonina, i think i'll be able to grow anything but i'm still far from there. There will be no change in plant layout anymore, i want to push that tank to the max

The rotundifolia are my protection against algae, so i can manage difficult plants easier, that was my intial plan. They grow so fast

 

[eminor]

I cranked up the co2, Skimmer seems to help a lot with gazeous exchange, i had green drop checker, plant growth was good, but something was missing for sensitive plants, drop checker is now yellow, shrimps are fine, when i did that whithout skimmer, i gazed shrimps. I know i can't go up right now, there is a limit, i won't play with the devil. Tuberculatum, walichii are pearling. I think i saw Dennis video in which he explain that with good gazeous exchange you can crank up the co2, the balance come quicker and more stable. I keep a high biomass with high light to consume co2, i do soft trimming

I though i had a good co2, i was far from that, really the hardest thing to fix. i often watch youtube tank, i don't know how they manage to grow with deep green drop, maybe they use lower light ? but i doubt tuberculatum would grow great in that condition. @ceg4048 would tell me that plant don't need high light but high co2