Sure some are (there is some rotala indica/rotudifolia on the picture) but they should not be green under high light, 1 t5ho on top is supposed to be high light according to PAR diagrams etc, rotala butterfly light calculator say that i have 137 Par+ let say there is a margin of error, i have 100+ it's still high light, plant are still green. conclusion in my case is that the t5ho bulb do not deliver high light. bulb is 12 inch from the soil
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A noob vs some hardest plants
- Thread starter eminor
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@Happi
urea magic, less than a week @0.4 ppm daily, the tuberculatum start new shoots, intense brown red, leaves upwards, walichii is really pink. Plant are pearling even in the dark...
urea magic, less than a week @0.4 ppm daily, the tuberculatum start new shoots, intense brown red, leaves upwards, walichii is really pink. Plant are pearling even in the dark...
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that is the power of Urea, Intense color and straight fuller leaves are some prime example under Urea dosing.
That why the same plant in my garbage tank thrive, the outdoor fertilizer i use (in the garbage tank) have some urea, under KNO3 it's way harder for me at least.
have you tried the Urea+KNO3 Combo that we talked about? if your tank test low for NO3 levels, i would definitely try this combo.
i actually do 2:1 urea/kno3 ratio, i wanted to do 100% urea but might be too much
i do 50/50 in another tank, so far so good
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there is nothing wrong with going 100% Urea, NO3 is almost always present in the aquarium around 5-10 ppm consistently. the 50/50 approach is good overall because it also provide K+
whats the scientific explanation for this?
I don't even know, they seems to love urea so muchwhats the scientific explanation for this?
@Happi
Never seen rotala grow that quick, the 2 taller stem grow insanely fast, you can see the urea use, leaves become larger and fuller, the picture don't show it well but the green is really more intense. I don't use high light, Par is 80. Tuberculatum is still doing nicely. Didiplis diandra which was kind of stunted start to kick in. I though she needed high light to get color, she's getting orange/red 1 inch above the sand.
The roots system of some plants was brown/black, new one are white, exept tuberculatum which send new root, root color is pink. I'll update later with more pictures of the hard ones
Never seen rotala grow that quick, the 2 taller stem grow insanely fast, you can see the urea use, leaves become larger and fuller, the picture don't show it well but the green is really more intense. I don't use high light, Par is 80. Tuberculatum is still doing nicely. Didiplis diandra which was kind of stunted start to kick in. I though she needed high light to get color, she's getting orange/red 1 inch above the sand.
The roots system of some plants was brown/black, new one are white, exept tuberculatum which send new root, root color is pink. I'll update later with more pictures of the hard ones
Back to the colour of your Rotala OrangeJuice - I assume the stem on the left is the OJ? it doesn't look very orange? If it has been a few weeks already, they should have converted fully and you should be getting a nice orange colour....
Yes, it's the orange juice, Not yet fully converted, i know she need some time to get the color except if insane high light is used. some are fully converted, some are orange. 1 * t5ho =/= high light as i told despite what i read on different board. I saw lot of par diagram for t5ho, i used lot of new bulb, reflector is good, par is no more than 100 here. if i trust par diagram like one on tom barr website, i have more than 150 at that distance, par meter tell me that i have not
some news, i did a mistake with the cycle i think, i cleaned the filter and let the filter moss without water for few minutes, the tomorrow after that, i had diatoms bloom. since few days diatom seems to go back there is now some green algae which looks like the nitrogen cycle is going on. Not a single BBA but i had BGA few patche which do not evolve.
tuberculatum was covered with algae, they are recovering right now, rotala walichii seems to resist well to algae which impress me.
The rotala rotundifolia/indica/orange juice are growing really fast despite the medium light. there is new walichii stem from the bottom, the didiplis diandra start to grow nicely. The disaster could've been far worst
tuberculatum was covered with algae, they are recovering right now, rotala walichii seems to resist well to algae which impress me.
The rotala rotundifolia/indica/orange juice are growing really fast despite the medium light. there is new walichii stem from the bottom, the didiplis diandra start to grow nicely. The disaster could've been far worst
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The tuberculatum doesn't seem to be in good shape - lower leaves look like they are decaying (aftermath of an algae attack?) and the colour is no longer reddish brown..... not sure what's going on if your other plants are all ok.
By the way, you have Ammannia Pedicatella Golden in a different tank? Maybe you should put one stem of Tuberculatum into that tank - I suspect they may like similar conditions so if you can grow the Golden well in your other tank, the Tuberculatum should be no problem as well.
By the way, you have Ammannia Pedicatella Golden in a different tank? Maybe you should put one stem of Tuberculatum into that tank - I suspect they may like similar conditions so if you can grow the Golden well in your other tank, the Tuberculatum should be no problem as well.
There's still diatoms on the tuberculatum yes, few days ago i though the plant would be dead, she's not intense brown, but the color is coming back slowly. The new leave shape is good so far, the bottom is indeed in bad shape. ammania golden is way easier than tuberculatum, ammania grow well in hard water (GH 17, KH 11). The last time i tried tuberculatum is hard water shee seemed to grow a bit then die off. the co2 was bad though
It was easier to manage water change with tap water, i doubt walichii/tuberculatum would like it. I think i saw a topic in which someone grow walichii in hard water which was not in perfect shape but fine using lot of co2/ferts
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I added 25% tap water to add nickel for the urea since rain water do not have it, since i did that, the tuberculatum send lot of new shoot which seems in good health despite the algae bloom due a fail with the filter. walichii seems impossible to stunt with urea
Hey, some update, the algae bloom is almost gone, still few patch of cladophora here and there but smaller everyday. I also have a deficiency, i can't figure if it's co2, iron or nitrates deficiency, i put 10 ppm nitrates, 1 ppm phosphate, 0.08 iron total dose for the week (few everyday) any idea ? thx
the tuberculatum looks in correct shape ?
if you look the picture of the didiplis diandra, you'll see that the new leaves are pale green, and small, the rotala only seem to have new leave really white, not stunted at all...
To me it looks like an iron issue because old leave are in good shape but i could be wrong. i also read that tuberculatum is an iron level indicator, it seems that she have good color, walichii is also pink...
the tuberculatum looks in correct shape ?
if you look the picture of the didiplis diandra, you'll see that the new leaves are pale green, and small, the rotala only seem to have new leave really white, not stunted at all...
To me it looks like an iron issue because old leave are in good shape but i could be wrong. i also read that tuberculatum is an iron level indicator, it seems that she have good color, walichii is also pink...
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KirstyF
Member
Well nitrate is a mobile nutrient so I would say iron is most likely if it’s a new growth issue, and would try an increase there first.
I understand that an Mn deficiency can also show up as chlorosis but it’s a less likely candidate, so would give the Fe a try.
I’ve found it to correct fairly quickly if that is the issue.
I understand that an Mn deficiency can also show up as chlorosis but it’s a less likely candidate, so would give the Fe a try.
I’ve found it to correct fairly quickly if that is the issue.
try adding some Iron Gluconate. what ppm of Mg and Mn are you currently adding?
plantnoobdude
Member
What is your gh and kh? For softer water 0.08 Fe dtpa should be sufficient.
