Hi all,
cheers Darrel
Same here, we have various bits of old lab kit we don't use ("Bomb calorimeter") that might do.
cheers Darrel
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ADA Mini L Reskape the Tree
- Thread starter clone
- Start date
clone
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- 11 Jan 2013
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- 204
It might be a curtain rail but is sleek and cheap 
there are not big difference with the ADA units. I think not too bad for DIY. It doesnot require skills and tools as well, it is durable and good looking. The canister is a stainless steel pasta canister from e- bay, powered by ECHEIM compact 600L/h which will turn the water 20 times per hour not too bad a..? The clamp is LGA775 waterblock part and treaded rods M4. I will pair it with inline heater DIY 100w and Purigen reactor made from PC watercooling reservoir from my old rig. Lines- Lab tube Tygon with antibacterial internal surface to avoid algae in the lines. Lily pipe and Intake- Aqua-Gro they are as good as ADA I think, but on better price. Thanks for the replies.
there are not big difference with the ADA units. I think not too bad for DIY. It doesnot require skills and tools as well, it is durable and good looking. The canister is a stainless steel pasta canister from e- bay, powered by ECHEIM compact 600L/h which will turn the water 20 times per hour not too bad a..? The clamp is LGA775 waterblock part and treaded rods M4. I will pair it with inline heater DIY 100w and Purigen reactor made from PC watercooling reservoir from my old rig. Lines- Lab tube Tygon with antibacterial internal surface to avoid algae in the lines. Lily pipe and Intake- Aqua-Gro they are as good as ADA I think, but on better price. Thanks for the replies.
Looking like a nice scape, i wouldnt worry about the HC. I found it does this, it will yellow a bit then settle and go like the clappers, just give it a bit of time. was it 12grow by chance?
The hard part is if it starts to yellow once you fill it.
The hard part is if it starts to yellow once you fill it.
this was end june
then by end august
it'll be fine
then by end august
it'll be fine
jack-rythm
Member
Amazing transformation!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Keeping the moss damp was a bit of a problem for me but as always the hydro goes mental, no doubt youll you'll find this out soon enough clone when its starts to take over!
clone
Member
- Joined
- 11 Jan 2013
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- 204
Wow I love ur HC carpet and thanks for the advice. Yes Hydrocotyle is fast grower I noticed I have two kinds. The second picture is still DSM right. The moss is a bit yellow mine dry out fast too. I will force wiyh the CO2 I think. Do u think can afect badly on the DSM?
mine dry out fast too. I will force wiyh the CO2 I think. Do u think can afect badly on the DSM?
Hi clone, i found moss really hard to get right, too wet and other plants would be unhappy, too dry and it looks like the pic above. Apparently it needs cooler temps and 100% humidity to thrive, saying that it struggled in my propogator too..??
second pic is still dry, i flooded it a few weeks after that, took out the moss but it had left little bits attached to the wood so when it was flooded it actually looked really natural and wild.
Emmersed is good fun, it has a few extra challenges but also adds a new aspect to the hobby. Keep it humid and relatively warm and it'll all be gravy mate.
second pic is still dry, i flooded it a few weeks after that, took out the moss but it had left little bits attached to the wood so when it was flooded it actually looked really natural and wild.
Emmersed is good fun, it has a few extra challenges but also adds a new aspect to the hobby. Keep it humid and relatively warm and it'll all be gravy mate.
clone
Member
- Joined
- 11 Jan 2013
- Messages
- 204
Hi,
First I would like to apologise for the unapropriate pictures and thanks censoring them. I did not ment to......expose what is on my wall no matter it is a form of art..... Anyway there is the update and that is week four. I have learned a lot about the way plants adapt to DSM and would like to share it. Why I choose DSM:
1] Almost all of the aquatic plants can be grown emersed but they change their form ( appearance) and "behavior" during the period of adapting. That is so natural as the rain falling......The river beds are cahnging during the rainy and dry season in the tropics so all flora and fauna has to adapt to the new situation. That is why DSM is natural process.
2] Avoiding The ALGAE bloom. During the DSM there are no standing water in the tank so even the exessive light and nutritiens will be no algae ( it might be some green algae but can be wiped off easily)
3] Does DSM requires additional heat? Yes, only if your ambient temp is below 15C. The fact is that when I bought the plants was snowing in London air temp ar -2 to 0 the plants was in a plastic bag and they survived on my way home. If your room is very cold during the night the plans will be exposed to continous low temps so you will need a heatpad under your tank or a fan heater blowing hot air against the wall of the tank.....not directly into it. The heat speeds up the plant growth same as in the green house.
4] During the DSM you dont need standing water in the tank. But your plants have to be wet at all times and the soil too. Covering the tank with clingfilm is a must if you dont live in a tropical country with hi humidity. Keeping the plants wet is esential to achieve well rooting and leaf development-dont forget you grow aquatic plants. I use spray bottle every morning and night before the lights shutt off.
5] How long photo period? Well 10-12h are fine. You can push your plants with 14h but green algae may occur. I put mine on timer for 12h and plants liked it, no algae so far. The light might be weaker than what you plan to use when fill the tank, because no water to be penetrated. Always cover your tank with something ( cling film), to avoid drying out the plant leaves from the direct light.
6] Do I need to dose ferts? Depend on what soil is in use and how your plants respond to DSM. I spray very weak solution RO water and Easy Life ferts. Bare in mind the ferts will accumulate in the substrate and will be released when the tank is flooded. Some of the plants are root feeders and some leaf feeders. When using active substrate like Amazonia combined with root feeders I think no ferts required. Durind the first weeks of the DSM all plants develop new root system so will not be so obvious progress above the ground (leaf development). During the DSM your substrate will mature and the beneficial bacteria will colonise in the substrate.
7] CO2 injection and DSM. During the DSM the plants will use atmosphere CO2 so for good gas exchange open the cover at least once a day. You can inject CO2 and that will speed up the proces and no harm on the plants. I use pressurised CO2 during DSM and the dropchecker is yellow all the time, but I keep the kling film cover all the time to prevent CO2 escaping and water evaporation. As long you dont have any fauna in the tank CO2 is not a harm but additional cost during the DSM
8] The GREAT FLOOD. When you are happy with the plant growth can flood the tank. Usualy after a month or two of the DSM. The first water filled in the tank need to be trown straight away or used in the garden (other plants) because it is very nutritious and full of amonia and accumulated ferts. If you leave it in the tank the algae is WELCOME! In theory your tank is cycled now and you can start you emmersed fun according that:
Week 1: 3 Hrs of Light , 50 % Water change once in 3 Days
Week 2: 5 Hrs of Light , 30 % Water change once in 3 Days
Week 3: 7 Hrs of Light , 30% Water change once a week
Week 4: 9 Hrs of Light , 30% Water change once a week
I think you can go for every day WC for thr first week just to achieve good balance and avoid algae. CO2 blast is essential due the plants was using atmospheric CO2 by now so you need enough dissolved in the water. The plants took over anyway now and should use big amounth of nutritients in the water column. Good luck everyone with the DSM. I will be very happy if someone add or comment on this if it is wrong written. Enjoy the pics
First I would like to apologise for the unapropriate pictures and thanks censoring them. I did not ment to......expose what is on my wall no matter it is a form of art..... Anyway there is the update and that is week four. I have learned a lot about the way plants adapt to DSM and would like to share it. Why I choose DSM:
1] Almost all of the aquatic plants can be grown emersed but they change their form ( appearance) and "behavior" during the period of adapting. That is so natural as the rain falling......The river beds are cahnging during the rainy and dry season in the tropics so all flora and fauna has to adapt to the new situation. That is why DSM is natural process.
2] Avoiding The ALGAE bloom. During the DSM there are no standing water in the tank so even the exessive light and nutritiens will be no algae ( it might be some green algae but can be wiped off easily)
3] Does DSM requires additional heat? Yes, only if your ambient temp is below 15C. The fact is that when I bought the plants was snowing in London air temp ar -2 to 0 the plants was in a plastic bag and they survived on my way home. If your room is very cold during the night the plans will be exposed to continous low temps so you will need a heatpad under your tank or a fan heater blowing hot air against the wall of the tank.....not directly into it. The heat speeds up the plant growth same as in the green house.
4] During the DSM you dont need standing water in the tank. But your plants have to be wet at all times and the soil too. Covering the tank with clingfilm is a must if you dont live in a tropical country with hi humidity. Keeping the plants wet is esential to achieve well rooting and leaf development-dont forget you grow aquatic plants. I use spray bottle every morning and night before the lights shutt off.
5] How long photo period? Well 10-12h are fine. You can push your plants with 14h but green algae may occur. I put mine on timer for 12h and plants liked it, no algae so far. The light might be weaker than what you plan to use when fill the tank, because no water to be penetrated. Always cover your tank with something ( cling film), to avoid drying out the plant leaves from the direct light.
6] Do I need to dose ferts? Depend on what soil is in use and how your plants respond to DSM. I spray very weak solution RO water and Easy Life ferts. Bare in mind the ferts will accumulate in the substrate and will be released when the tank is flooded. Some of the plants are root feeders and some leaf feeders. When using active substrate like Amazonia combined with root feeders I think no ferts required. Durind the first weeks of the DSM all plants develop new root system so will not be so obvious progress above the ground (leaf development). During the DSM your substrate will mature and the beneficial bacteria will colonise in the substrate.
7] CO2 injection and DSM. During the DSM the plants will use atmosphere CO2 so for good gas exchange open the cover at least once a day. You can inject CO2 and that will speed up the proces and no harm on the plants. I use pressurised CO2 during DSM and the dropchecker is yellow all the time, but I keep the kling film cover all the time to prevent CO2 escaping and water evaporation. As long you dont have any fauna in the tank CO2 is not a harm but additional cost during the DSM
8] The GREAT FLOOD. When you are happy with the plant growth can flood the tank. Usualy after a month or two of the DSM. The first water filled in the tank need to be trown straight away or used in the garden (other plants) because it is very nutritious and full of amonia and accumulated ferts. If you leave it in the tank the algae is WELCOME! In theory your tank is cycled now and you can start you emmersed fun according that:
Week 1: 3 Hrs of Light , 50 % Water change once in 3 Days
Week 2: 5 Hrs of Light , 30 % Water change once in 3 Days
Week 3: 7 Hrs of Light , 30% Water change once a week
Week 4: 9 Hrs of Light , 30% Water change once a week
I think you can go for every day WC for thr first week just to achieve good balance and avoid algae. CO2 blast is essential due the plants was using atmospheric CO2 by now so you need enough dissolved in the water. The plants took over anyway now and should use big amounth of nutritients in the water column. Good luck everyone with the DSM. I will be very happy if someone add or comment on this if it is wrong written. Enjoy the pics
Hi all,
Quality job, what is the moss? is it Calliergon cuspidatum?
cheers Darrel
Quality job, what is the moss? is it Calliergon cuspidatum?
Didiplis diandra?
cheers Darrel
No problem, the only reason they have been edited is due to the fact that we have some younger members
I would go for either a red stem to add some contrast and a strong plant focal point, maybe Rotala Wallichi or another fine leaved stem such as d. diandra that Darrel mentioned to keep the scale (not full tank height though, kept trimmed to form a 'halo' above the wood), or the direct opposite with some tall delicate strands of vallis nana to compliment the hairgrass, maybe you could incorporate both?.....personal taste though, youve done a great job so far so im sure you'll choose a winner!
Its looking great and some good DSM advice too
Cheerio,
Ady.
Excellent journal so far!
Thanks for sharing, especially your DSM experiences. I have found them very useful, as I'm doing the same very soon.
Keep up the great work.
Thanks for sharing, especially your DSM experiences. I have found them very useful, as I'm doing the same very soon.
Keep up the great work.
Hi all,
cheers Darrel
I can't grow any type of Vallis, so don't quote me on this, but I think all species of Vallis are true aquatics and won't grow emersed.
cheers Darrel
Ah yes, good point, obviously one for after the flood!
Would cyperus halferi be suitable for an emersed set up as an alternative for those who intend on keeping it 'dry'?
Hi all,
cheers Darrel
I can't grow C. helferi either, but I'm pretty sure that will be OK (and probably a lot happier emersed rather than submersed).
cheers Darrel
