Indeed, amazing to see the progress and solid experimental approach in this thread.You've done a great job! Thumbs up! 👍 And with perfect results, too. ✅ You have my utmost admiration. 🎖️🏆
Indeed, amazing to see the progress and solid experimental approach in this thread.You've done a great job! Thumbs up! 👍 And with perfect results, too. ✅ You have my utmost admiration. 🎖️🏆
Thank you for your detailed explanation! I’m too tiered from the business this week to dig into the details though. Will do this the upcoming days.I would do this, as a mechanical engineer who knows enough soldering to be dangerous:
IRFZ34N is the most basic MOSFET I have on hand, but there are countless alternatives that would do. Important bits of the datasheet:
- Drain-to-Source Breakdown Voltage: needs to be above 12V to switch in a 12V system. This one does 55V, I'm not sure if they make MOSFETs that can't switch 12v
- Drain-to-Source On-Resistance: 40 mOhm, so for a 3W 12V solenoid (250 mA) the MOSFET will dissipate 2.5 mW. IRFZ34N is in the TO-220 package, so is overbuilt for this load by a factor of 1000 without needing any additional heatsink
- Gate Threshold Voltage: >2V, so should be switched by 3.3V logic level. The max in the datasheet is 4V, so I admit I am playing a bit loose - there's a chance the specific MOSFET you get won't be switched by 3.3V, but it probably will (and definitely will be switched if the ucontroller has 5V logic level)
I think chatGPT is right about the flyback diode (the 1N4001 in the diagram), but the capacitors and gate resistor are not needed for a simple implementation like this. The gate resistor wouldn't hurt to add though if you wanted to though. This device also doesn't need a manual shutoff valve; the user can either turn off the regulator connected to the CO2 bottle or just unplug the whole thing if you need to stop the CO2 addition in an emergency.
You could switch an LED light in the same manner without the flyback diode, but if it needed more than a couple amps I'd recommend either adding a heatsink or a lower resistance MOSFET like IRLB8314. Come to think of it IRLB8314 also has a lower gate threshold, so should reliably trigger at 3.3V - it would be a better choice.
A DC motor controller lets you PWM the output to fine-tune the speed of a motor. It'll also work as a switch, but is overkill for a solenoid that just has to be on or off. It would be useful if you had a proportional solenoid valve, PWMing that would let you adjust how open the valve was.
Motor controllers will also you you reverse the polarity across the motor, so you can reverse its direction. I think a solenoid supplied with the reverse voltage will be unharmed but won't do anything - the coil will have the same resistance either way so the power draw will be the same, but it'll be working with the spring instead of against it. If it does try and turn the solenoid on backwards, just swap IN1 and IN2
I’m tempted to buy the off-the-shelf solution as well, to eliminate errors in design from my side, buying the individual parts and soldering the whole thing. I’m aware now it is overkill, and some extra attention is needed in getting it wired up.For a non-expert like me, it is often easier to opt for an off-the-shelf solution than to understand the details.
I’ve glued the sensor base to the lid, eliminating an air gap. For the metric quoted above, the CO2 loss time is increased from 60 to 100 minutes, so the gain is quite substantial. The measurements is in the graph below.I'm doing the same thing. Blowing breath in it and testing how fast the CO2 is disappearing in the waterless test tank. I already printed a new lid which lowers the air gaps. The metric would be the time for CO2 to decrease from 1% to 0,5%. I started with the first prototype from 15 minutes, next adjustment 30 minutes and currently near 60 minutes. Still working on a gasket/seal which will make a notable difference I assume.

















A peltier based water chiller can work really well for this. Lots of commercial options and good homebrew possibilities as well.However, during summer, the temperature rose to 29 °C despite the room temperature being only 23–24 °C, mainly because of the lamps and the two 60 W pumps inside the tank.
I have not heard about the Peltier coolers before, but I'll check them.A peltier based water chiller can work really well for this. Lots of commercial options and good homebrew possibilities as well.
Well... it worked great in the lab, but looking into it a bit I think it won't scale suitably for your 900L setup. If you don't mind homebrew, you could pump the water through a car heater core with fan to act as a passive ambient heat exchanger. If that's not enough cooling, you can blow cool air over the core from a portable air conditioner - these can be pretty affordable used. The upside is you can keep your tank relatively sealed and you don't have to replace a lot of water from evaporation.I have not heard about the Peltier coolers before, but I'll check them.
Regarding the sealing seemed to me that it didn't matter that much; I am still getting very similar CO2 profiles to those in my previous aquariums without cooling, although it is hard to compare. I run the fans only during the night. And I have no before-and-after measurements with this aquarium yet, but I plan to do the before part soon... So we will see. One clear benefit of this evaporation is that without it, with the daily 5-6 liters of soda, the headspace is filling up quickly. With all-night (during summer) evaporation, I lose roughly the same amount that is injected in the morning. During the winter, I do not run the fans all night because the air gets too oversaturated with water in the house and it condensates. But the room temperature is now cooler too, so there's no need for that much cooling.Well... it worked great in the lab, but looking into it a bit I think it won't scale suitably for your 900L setup. If you don't mind homebrew, you could pump the water through a car heater core with fan to act as a passive ambient heat exchanger. If that's not enough cooling, you can blow cool air over the core from a portable air conditioner - these can be pretty affordable used. The upside is you can keep your tank relatively sealed and you don't have to replace a lot of water from evaporation.