Anubias leaves curling?

[Seditro]

Hi guys im wondering if someone could help me figure out why my anubias plants leaves are curling and turning yellow?

i dont really know what infomation you need from me to help figure this out


My current set up
this set up is about 2 weeks old now and just recently added aload of plants

Juwel Rio 125 with high lite day bulbs 28w x 2 (although i have blacked one out because i thought this would be to much light) so i have 1 28w hi light day juwel bulb
i have the standard internal juwel filter that came with the aquarium
i have a 1600 hydor koraila wave maker to give abit of extra flow and to blow my co2 around
im using aquatic compost capped with black gravel
im using a co2 fire extinguisher as my co2 source set to around 1 bubble per second
drop checker is green so im assuming iv set it right

im EI dosing the tank everyday and alternating the days with macro and micro nurtrients and following the instructions that the ferts come 10ml per 50litre of water (i do it on 150Lrather than 125L as i think its more accurate?)

My lights come on at 12 go off at 8
My co2 comes on at 11 and goes off at 7

 

[Seditro]

Current plants in the tank

saggitaria subulata
Vallisneria straight
cryptocoryne becketii
cryptocoryne wendtii
java fern
anubias nana
echinodorus ozelot "green"

 

[ceg4048]

Hi,
If you have just put the plants in then there will always be some casualties as the plant transition. i see that generally the anubias leaves look nice and green, with only a young leaf failing. T

I think generally the tank looks in good shape. As long as the DC is lime green when the light comes on then you ought to be OK. You can prbably stand to increase the injection rate. Curling leaves or other deformities generally indicate a CO2 issue.

You were wise to reduce the light. Anubias is a low light plant and has difficulty when submerged if you throw a lot of light at it.

I really wouldn't worry at all about being accurate with the dosing. Do not get caught up in numbers. The fact that you are dosing at all is enough.

The tank looks good to me so far.

Cheers,

 

[Seditro]

Hi thanks for the reply

Oh good i was starting to worry but I have read that pretty much all the plants I have picked are going to melt which apparently is normal

I think I may need to increase the co2 level as the drop checker is a dark green rather than lime

Any suggestions for better co2 distribution around my tank

As id like it not to look like a glass of fizzy pop lol

Currently using a bazooka atomizer diffuser which was good at first very small fine mist of bubbles and when put next to a wave maker or filter you could hardly see any bubbles but its a about a year old now and has lost that effect so not sure if that’s one of the problems

 

[ceg4048]

Oh good i was starting to worry but I have read that pretty much all the plants I have picked are going to melt which apparently is normal

Hi,
Well, it's not necessarily automatic that they will all melt. Plants automatically melt when people blast the tank with too much light and don't pay enough attention to CO2, flow and distribution.

I think I may need to increase the co2 level as the drop checker is a dark green rather than lime

Yes, dark green is not generally good, but again - that's only if there is too much light.
I like to use this chart as a visual reference.
The idea is to stay in the blue band as much as possible when you first flood the tank.
This gives you a fighting chance.
A Rio 125 is about 20 inches top to bottom. Although the max distance from top to bottom is 20 inches, if you have a couple inches of gravel, then the substrate will be a bit closer to the bulb. It's probably 15 inches or so from the bulb.

At 15 inches, you can see that even using only a single T5 bulb the anubias is sitting in the yellow band. They are actually still getting fried so that's why they have started to curl.

If you don't have any fish in the tank you can boost the injection rate far beyond lime green (even to yellow) to help the plants out.

Any suggestions for better co2 distribution around my tank

As id like it not to look like a glass of fizzy pop lol

Well, what you could do, if you have the space under the cabinet, would be to add another cheap second hand filter, get rid of the bazooka and use a simple airstone or ceramic diffuser to send the bubbles into the filter inlet and attach the outlet to a spraybar mounted on the back wall pointing forward. If that's too complicated then forget the spraybar and just center the outlet of that filter on the back wall pointing forward. Depending on the strength of the second filter you might be able to get rid of the wavemaker.
That would rid the tank of two large items in exchange for a few smaller ones...

Cheers,

 

[Seditro]

Hi, thanks for all your help I appreciate it alot

So i was looking at these inline diffuser since you mentioned about adding a filter these seem to have good reviews

What filter would you recommend for me to use with one of these on my tank
As i think the pipe diameter on a all pond solution external are to big for these at a quick glance

You said i was in high light region on my tank is there a way i can reduce it anymore or would it just be addin more co2 to combat that I have no fish in the tank at the moment

 

[ceg4048]

What filter would you recommend for me to use with one of these on my tank

Hi,
Following the 10X rule, if you want to disable and remove the internal filter, then any filter with a flow rating of 1000LPH-1300LPH will work fine. If you want to keep the internal filter and if you want to minimize cost, then simply subtract the internal filter flow rating from 1300LPH and that's the filter rating you can use. It really all depends on your budget, on space available in the cabinet, and on how elaborate or simple you want to keep things.

Here is an example of a very elegant and effective diffuser (17mm spud version). A pity that is is all glass instead of a more sturdy plexiglass:

You said i was in high light region on my tank is there a way i can reduce it anymore or would it just be addin more co2 to combat that I have no fish in the tank at the moment

Well certainly you can add a lot more CO2 since there are no fish, but at some point you will want to add fish so you do need to find a solution. Anubias are notorious for falling prey to GSA and BBA.

Since there is no way to raise the height of the lamps, what you might want to experiment with is to remove the reflectors from the hood, if it has any and /or try to find some kind of light diffuser such as cheese cloth or waxed paper or some other material to block some of the light from the bulbs. That way you can use both bulbs so that you obtain a more even spread without pumping so much energy.

I've seen clip-on type reflectors for sale (can't recall where) that actually clip on to the bulbs themselves and other folks have used these by rotating the reflectors so that it is at the bottom or side of the bulb and which blocks the light. You'll have to put your thinking cap on to figure out ways of blocking the light from the bulb, and without a PAR meter it will be difficult to determine how effective your efforts are.

Cheers,

 

[Soilwork]

Hi,
Following the 10X rule, if you want to disable and remove the internal filter, then any filter with a flow rating of 1000LPH-1300LPH will work fine. If you want to keep the internal filter and if you want to minimize cost, then simply subtract the internal filter flow rating from 1300LPH and that's the filter rating you can use. It really all depends on your budget, on space available in the cabinet, and on how elaborate or simple you want to keep things.

Here is an example of a very elegant and effective diffuser (17mm spud version). A pity that is is all glass instead of a more sturdy plexiglass:
View attachment 110563



Well certainly you can add a lot more CO2 since there are no fish, but at some point you will want to add fish so you do need to find a solution. Anubias are notorious for falling prey to GSA and BBA.

Since there is no way to raise the height of the lamps, what you might want to experiment with is to remove the reflectors from the hood, if it has any and /or try to find some kind of light diffuser such as cheese cloth or waxed paper or some other material to block some of the light from the bulbs. That way you can use both bulbs so that you obtain a more even spread without pumping so much energy.

I've seen clip-on type reflectors for sale (can't recall where) that actually clip on to the bulbs themselves and other folks have used these by rotating the reflectors so that it is at the bottom or side of the bulb and which blocks the light. You'll have to put your thinking cap on to figure out ways of blocking the light from the bulb, and without a PAR meter it will be difficult to determine how effective your efforts are.

Cheers,

You can buy the clip on reflectors from iaquatics.

I had the vision 180 which has similar dimensions. I upgraded the 2 x T8 fixture to Juwels 2 x T5 high lite (patented jargon) fixture and grew lots of algae. That was until I significantly increase the co2 concentration and replaced the old Fluval 205 canister for the JBL 1501e. I Purchased a spray bar and mounted it along the back wall and within a couple of months I somehow managed to create this

Here are some closer pics of the Anubis. You can make out the before and after leaves of said plant.

Hope this helps.

Regards
CJ




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ian_m]

I upgraded the 2 x T8 fixture to Juwels 2 x T5 high lite (patented jargon) fixture and grew lots of algae

I did exactly the same on my Vision 180. Upgraded from T8 to T5 and didn't change timing or light levels and promptly grew algae, green spot on glass and Anubias and BBA on rocks/fittings. So cleaned as much algae as possible, reduced light on time and removed reflectors for a couple of weeks, before adding reflectors and increasing the on time. Ran for ages with 2 T5 tubes and no algae.

Had go round the whole shebang again when I upgraded to 4 T5 tubes (iQuatics replacement light fixture) but at least you can run with just 2 tubes on and slowly increase the time 4 tubes are on. This time no algae when I increased the light level.

I think my algae issues I get occasionally are due to me overfeeding...just have to keep remembering couple of pinches of food and that is it...no more.