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Calzone's new 120x60x45 optiwhite tank build

In my capacity as a once-scientifically-minded-but-now-too-mentally-lazy person, I suspect that in a filter the size of the eheim 2180, there's just way more media than you're ever going to need and you are therefore most likely oxygen limited. If you had a small internal filter like a fluval U2 with Venturi, and you were a hit overstocked, the quality of the ceramic media might well be more limiting.

Honestly, I just got a range of medias cos it was fun, and not because it was going to really make any noticeable difference! Thinking about it, my question now would be, would I be better taking say 50%of the media out to improve flow as the surface area will still not be limiting but better flow will decrease boundary layer thicknesses and therefore improve new gas/nutrient diffusion into the pores?

Also, other than wet.dry sumps or filters how does one max out oxygen? Is decent surface agitation usually enough? Are air stones going to make any difference and won't they drive off co2? Or just run them at night?
 
Calzone said:
In my capacity as a once-scientifically-minded-but-now-too-mentally-lazy person, I suspect that in a filter the size of the eheim 2180, there's just way more media than you're ever going to need and you are therefore most likely oxygen limited. If you had a small internal filter like a fluval U2 with Venturi, and you were a hit overstocked, the quality of the ceramic media might well be more limiting.

Honestly, I just got a range of medias cos it was fun, and not because it was going to really make any noticeable difference! Thinking about it, my question now would be, would I be better taking say 50%of the media out to improve flow as the surface area will still not be limiting but better flow will decrease boundary layer thicknesses and therefore improve new gas/nutrient diffusion into the pores?

Also, other than wet.dry sumps or filters how does one max out oxygen? Is decent surface agitation usually enough? Are air stones going to make any difference and won't they drive off co2? Or just run them at night?

Surface agitation during the day will most certainly drive off CO2 and is undesirable (according to my reading rather than experience I should point out). I hear what you are saying regarding the 2180. Its an interesting question as to "at what level does that break even point occur" in terms of oxygenation vs relevant media capabilities. I still suspect with my filter I am better off with a decent media than a basic one.
 
By. Putting good media in you're removing it for sure as a constraint, and getting peace of mind. Plus, there's a reason why people buy bmw's when skodas do a great job for much less..... I'm ok with the "my media is better than your media" approach! The great thing about it is that we can all enjoy that argument whether we have siporax, bio balls or platinum coated gold dust, as long as the fish are healthy.
 
regarding the co 2... Nitrogen and carbon in the same bottle... What do you think of that calzone?
 
Hi all,
Most who have used both and been in a position to develop a preference, go with the Sera. 34% greater ability to house biological bacteria. That has to be worth something. I know what I would prefer
&
I have spoken to several people at the top of their field, including a cutting edge aquatic retailer and aquascaper who stocks EHEIM filters but will not stock their media in preference for Sera Siporax.
Don't get me wrong I like Siporax as well, but honestly it is just personal preference. I haven't got a product to sell, I like all the ring shaped media, and if some N2 out-gassing happens from a porous media, so be it, but that isn't my primary interest.

To go down the car analogy I drive a "W reg 1 litre Vauxhall Corsa with 105,000 miles on the clock, that I bought 7 years ago for £1800", so that might tell you where I am coming from.

We have some kit (if I can find it) which allows you to measure DO2 in a chamber, but it won't tell you anything different. We used to do a lot of work in the lab with landfill leachate, which you can think of as uber polluted tank water, and the only reason you would use a sealed vessel (like a external filter) is for anaerobic fermentation. Honestly gas exchange and oxygen are the key, and after that everything else is just "re-arranging the deck-chairs".

Calzone wrote:
Thinking about it, my question now would be, would I be better taking say 50%of the media out to improve flow as the surface area will still not be limiting but better flow will decrease boundary layer thicknesses and therefore improve new gas/nutrient diffusion into the pores?
Yes it would, with most canister filters performance actually improves as the amount of media is reduced, or if you change to a media which clogs less easily. This is why I have a regularly cleaned coarse PPI10 pre-filter sponge on the filter intake, and 1/2 fill with media that won't clog (like ceramic/sintered glass rings, alfagrog or "coco pops"). You can then direct the flow from the venturi straight at the sponge, the intake can't suck in the large air bubbles and the pre-filter sponge stops any bulky organic debris from getting into the filter, I just want the NH3 in there and the flow speed to remain quick through the filter. All this "you need the flow speed to be low enough for the bacteria to be able to absorb the NH3 is a fundamental misunderstanding (or attempt to confuse?) about the processes involved. Both plants and fast linear flow help ensure water oxygenation, water plus NH3/NO2 and O2/CO2 is then re-circulated through the filter media as frequently as possible, the NH3/NO2 is consumed, the gases diffuse in/out along their diffusion gradients at the waters surface and the plants assimilate the NO3. It is KISS solution to bio-filtration, compare this to this set-up suggested by Sera: <http://www.sera.de/uk/hauptseiten/s...-siporax-what-kind-of-filter-is-suitable.html>.

The other thing to think about is if all the water in the filter becomes de-oxygenated you continually return NH3 to the tank, but if you have a high flow system that doesn't allow any denitrification, you return NO3 to the tank, and I know which I'd prefer.

Foxfish has written the important bit:
.......No I am not saying that, I am saying there is a limit to the effectiveness of porous media inside a plastic box with limited oxygen. You can have 10 billion holes per square inch of media or 20 trillion holes per square inch but only a fraction of the surface area will be effective. If you expose the media to air then the only limiting factor is bacteria food! On that basis there is no need for a porous media in a trickle tower because the non clogging plastic bio balls will be effective enough."
There is some work being done on re-circulating systems using biofilters (RBFs), obviously they tend use cheap bulky substrates, but this one should be available and is quite interesting. This paper (Hu & Gagnon) found crushed glass (not sintered, but just crushed re-cycling glass) is a very effective medium, and there is now a lot of work on crushed glass as a filter material (See Horan & Lowe).

Hu & Gagnon (2006)
"Impact of filter media on the performance of full-scale recirculating biofilters for treating multi-residential wastewater". Water Research 40:7 pp. 1474–1480.
Abs. "The average influent 5 d biochemical oxygen demand (BOD5) and total suspended solids (TSS) concentrations into the field filter system were 381±64 (mean±standard deviation) and 46±21 mg/L, respectively. The results showed that crushed glass could be an effective medium in RBFs since the crushed glass filter produced stable effluent BOD5 and TSS concentrations of less than 20 mg/L. Geotextile was found to be another successful alternative filter medium with the effluent BOD5 and TSS of 18±11 and 11±7 mg/L, respectively, even though the porosity of geotexitle filter was as high as 0.90." <http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0043135406000819>

Horan & Lowe (2007) "Full-scale trials of recycled glass as tertiary filter medium for wastewater treatment". Water Research 41:1, pp. 253–259.
Abs. "Pilot-scale trials at a domestic wastewater treatment works compared the performance of three grades of recycled glass (coarse, medium and fine) when used as tertiary filter media for total suspended solids removal (TSS). Fine glass produced the best effluent quality but blinded rapidly and coarse glass could process three times the flow but with a reduction in final effluent quality. The medium glass offered a compromise with similar flow characteristics to the coarse glass, yet still achieve good solids removal, albeit less than the fine glass. Full-scale studies compared the performance of medium glass with the sand medium that is typically used in this application. There was little difference between them in terms of TSS removal, and they both removed around 75% of TSS from the influent, provided that the solids concentration did not exceed 70 mg/l. However, the glass media had superior flow characteristics and was able to treat an additional 8–10% of the influent following the backwash cycle." <http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0043135406004702>

cheers Darrel
 
Blimey!!

Fish keeping attracts a lot of science people eh? Gotta love it.

I thought someone would state this - that more flow is most likely better than more media, above a certain low media-content limit, which is almost certainly exceeded in most canisters, as this will transport more O2 and Nh3 to the bacteria, and will reduce boundary layer thickness on the surface of the media, which increases the concentration gradient and thus improves the rate of diffusion of O2 and NH3 into the bacteria and NO3 out.

Why then do I feel an emotional resistance, even accepting this argument, to removing say 30% of my media from the 2180 filter? Weird, but I do. Possibly because I've paid for it before thinking about it?

So it seems, the important things for filter biological capacity and effectiveness are therefore (maybe not in this order...):
- bacterial population
- O2 concentration (or rather ability of bacteria to access O2)
- higher flow (or speed of flow) past the media
- preventing solid wastes from settling on the media (prefiltering)
- quantity of media and media effectiveness (these two are not independent functions of each other), where media effectiveness is both a function of crystalline structure (pore density, pore sizes) and flow characteristics

AM I right? Am I missing something? Is the order reasonable?

Practically this means:
- get oversized filter, but don't over fill it - this means you can guarantee sufficient media and therefore bacteria population, while maintaining good flow
- maximise dissolved O2 (good surface agitation, possible use of air stone - at night when not dosing Co2), use high plant density
- Ensure good mechanical filtration in filter, to prevent solids settling on your biomedia. Consider prefilter sponges on your filter inlets....or a pair of stretched tights!
- Clean your mechanical filtration regularly.
- Gravel vac your tank regularly to remove solid wastes since these hopefully won't be going in your filter.

??
 
darren636 said:
regarding the co 2... Nitrogen and carbon in the same bottle... What do you think of that calzone?

am pretty sure my bottle is CO2 only. Its produced by air liquide, and states food-grade Co2 on the bottle, nowehere does it mention nitrogen etc.

Of course food grade CO2 might be a technical short hand for CO2/nitrogen mix for all I know!! :D

I'm not expert, but I would guess N2 is not very soluble in water, and not harmful in any case. It just likely means you would have wasted money and have to inject more, plus it might well reduce the rate of dissolution of the CO2, and in the case of an external reactor, might mean the reactor needs bleeding more. But this is just a guess. Will likely find out soon.

If anyone knows for sure what the downside of a mix is, please post.

According to the air liquide website, their co2 only cylinder is 805mm tall, 140mm diameter, and weighs 17kg full with 6.35 kg CO2. This is what I have. the mixed tank shows as containing 10litre water equivalent and is 764mm high, and weighs 21.4kg full and 160mm diameter, plus runs at 200bar. Pretty confident this is not what I have, and will probably find out for sure when it blows my regulator off...... :wideyed:
 
Does anyone know for sure that reducing media content increases flow? I ought to know this since I have a degree in chemical engineering, but that was a long time ago!

As I understand it, the impeller pushes water up out of the canister back to the tank. it effectively has an unlimited reservoir of water just sitting there to "suck" from. That reservoir is replaced by the force of gravity. the "empty" cross sectional area available for water to flow through in the canister below the impeller is much higher than the hose its coming down from the tank in. So does a lot of media make any difference to the impeller/pump? Is it not only the head height and frictional resistance of the outlet hose that matters?
 
i've removed the wool pads out of all my filters and have only 1 coarse foam pad in all of them now the rest of the media is noodles + balls

think of it this way if you're filling a bottle a 1 litre a minute but trying to take liquid out at 2 litres a minute. does the bottle ever get full and what is your final outbound max flow rate?

if on the other hand you put 2 lpm in and 2 lpm out does the bottle ever get full now and what is your final outbound flow rate?
 
and you're fish are still alive?!!? high stocking?

Because lets be honest, that's what the filter is for.

If taking some media out makes no difference to fish survival (even at high stocking levels), but increases flow, thus improving plant growth, and also doesn't increase maintenance (or even reduces it), what's not to like?
 
The problem with sintered glass & other porous, man made or natural, products is that they are very susceptible to clogging up.
The whole concept of their huge surface area is flawed if the pours become clogged!
I can remember when these products first became popular (Siporax) about 25 years back and everybody was buying the stuff but, it soon became apparent that the efficiency diminished over a certain time depending on the efficiency of the pre filter.
I can remember how some fanatical guys were cycling their media but using three bags of Siporax & removing one bag every month, boiling the product & then replacing the bag!

Although it is fun to discuss this sort of thing at the end of the day if you carry out large water changes & spend time keeping the tank clean by syphoning the substrate you will be fine regardless of the absolute efficiency of you bio media :thumbup:
 
the filter companies don't sell as much filter media :)

all my fish are doing fine only deaths in the past year have been a few tetra's escaping or being helped out of the tanks by the cats.

my 200l tank runs 1x aqua one aquis cf 1200 it has runs and noodles and one foam pad in the 3rd tray thats it. flow rate is fine and fish are fine with 0 0 0 readings.
The bulk of the biological filtration of a tank is usually done by the substrate/gravel/sand over the filter. So don't be intimidated by the filter manufacturer saying you ahve to have xyz in your filter and change every 3 months.
strip it down as much as you like as long as there's some form of media in there i go heavy bioball over ceramics and foam but usually have at least one bag of ceramics in a filter and 1 portion of foam as a "polish" but I don't use the white wool its useless.
 
Alastair said:
When I ran tetra tec ex1200s, I removed the two foam blocks from the middle tray and noticed an improvement in flow.,
Also in my 2080, I use alfagrog and no longer the substrate pro and flow is much stronger

Hey Al can you quantify the difference in lph ?
 
hinch said:
i've removed the wool pads out of all my filters and have only 1 coarse foam pad in all of them now the rest of the media is noodles + balls

think of it this way if you're filling a bottle a 1 litre a minute but trying to take liquid out at 2 litres a minute. does the bottle ever get full and what is your final outbound max flow rate?

if on the other hand you put 2 lpm in and 2 lpm out does the bottle ever get full now and what is your final outbound flow rate?

I can see you are getting at something here, but I am not clear what :) Can you elaborate ? The answer to your first question is no the bottle would not get full. In fact would it not stay half empty ? I dont know what the final outbound rate would be, so tell me the answer, lol. 1lpm ? Surely it can only be as much as the inflow ?

Second question, yes it should get full and the outbound rate would be 2lpm ?
 
Nick you have one VERY heavy but nevertheless interesting thread going on here. Like you, I still feel an emotional resistance to doing away with media, LOL. Actually I am hoping with the Pro3E I am hoping to get, it wont be an issue anyway. SO I wont need to sweat it
 
foxfish said:
The problem with sintered glass & other porous, man made or natural, products is that they are very susceptible to clogging up.
The whole concept of their huge surface area is flawed if the pours become clogged!
I can remember when these products first became popular (Siporax) about 25 years back and everybody was buying the stuff but, it soon became apparent that the efficiency diminished over a certain time depending on the efficiency of the pre filter.
I can remember how some fanatical guys were cycling their media but using three bags of Siporax & removing one bag every month, boiling the product & then replacing the bag!

Although it is fun to discuss this sort of thing at the end of the day if you carry out large water changes & spend time keeping the tank clean by syphoning the substrate you will be fine regardless of the absolute efficiency of you bio media :thumbup:

I agree, I guess that's what the conversation is about. More specifically, would the filter actually be more effective holistically within the greater tank objectives (ie plants, fish health and water clarity) if I put in half the media rather than full, given there's more than enough surface area in there?

On media replacement, I've never replaced any media. This is nonsense advice aimed to a) sell more media and b) for people not wanting to do any maintenance. (with the exception of carbon possibly).
 
hinch said:
i've removed the wool pads out of all my filters and have only 1 coarse foam pad in all of them now the rest of the media is noodles + balls

think of it this way if you're filling a bottle a 1 litre a minute but trying to take liquid out at 2 litres a minute. does the bottle ever get full and what is your final outbound max flow rate?

if on the other hand you put 2 lpm in and 2 lpm out does the bottle ever get full now and what is your final outbound flow rate?

Not sure what you're getting at. In answer to your question, if you actually do remove at 2lpm and input at 1lpm then you net drain at 1lpm, though your outbound flow is by definition still 2lpm. if you put in and take out at the same rate the level does not change, though you outbound flow rate is still 2lpm.

How does this address the question of whether removing media increases flow for filters where the impeller is after the media? Is the answer that the impeller is operating in a closed circuit and should be considered as pumping up the pipes, around the tank, down the inlet pipe and up through the media, and so the resistance to flow of the media does matter?
 
ok quick answer the media hinders the input flow rate down to say 1lpm so even though you can output at 2lpm your final output will still only be 1lpm because you're input limited.
input being any stage of the filter BEFORE the impeller even if its directly below it.

So by removing filter media you're removing the restrictions on your input upto the maximium potential input allowed by the diameter of you input pipework.

do a test put the white floss in all your trays and look at spray with bar above water level. then take all the white crap out and do it again you'll notice considerably increased flow
 
I know this is true, because if you feed a filter with 12mm hose and output with 16mm hose, you must surely have less flow than if both hoses were 16mm. Ultimately this is because the circulation around the "closed" loop is all drive by the pump, without it there would be no flow. Now, I would suggest that if you were feeding the water in through the media from a different tank say by gravity, things might be different. And actually pumps are crap at sucking and good at pushing, so I can even imagine that friction through the media has more impact than friction in the outlet (depending on pump design).
One wonders therefore why eheim suggest you fill the filter rammed full of media as this will reduce flow a lot and isn't necessary (apart from the obvious reason that they sell more media that way).
We should do an experiment on this and sticky it. Debunk the myths.
 
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