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Cloudy Water Hazy Water and Algae!

its as simple as finding a 'recipe' that is suitable & copying it.
It is not easy to find it. But I will get there at some point . I hope.
I would say that softer water makes it easier to grow certain types of plants.
Yes I have heard the same that softer water make it easier.

I noticed plants started oxygenating some of them releasing little time oxygen bubbles... and now I am not sure if plants or algae are doing it...

And could it be caused by water surface movement?

Thank you

Best regards

Peter
 
Hi all,
Happy New Year 2024🎆

2 Days ago I have done water change. I set PO4 on 0.5 mg/l. About 6 hrs after water change and add PO4 I did tests for that and the test was slightly blue.

I added also NO3-10mg/l but there will be more NO3 because fishes producing a bit as well.

What I noticed, after PO4 is increased plants starting release some oxygen. Is that possible? I know in general that plants releasing oxygen shortly after water change to make osmotic pressure on the same level, but I noticed also last week when I added po4 plants looking like would have started a bit O2 releasing.

Well I don't have for the moment any floating plants to have an indicator of deficiencies of nutrients.
Today because i am interested what level was po4 in my aquarium I have done test again. Test showed clear water inside the vial-0 mg/l.
Well I added again 0.5mg/l po4 and again I can see plants oxygenating little...
I noticed also when I add po4, then I do not have green dust on glass inside, and green dots no appearing on plant leaves.

Yesterday I added flora grow Colombo, 12 pumps so it will be about on 60 litres if 1 pump is per 5 litres.
I did the test for fe today aswell and it showed 0.05-0.1mg/l. Test from jbl. It was slightly pink- ish...

I ordered today limnobium levigatum to have floating plant to start learn on this indicator.

But in general is that possible that plants absorbing so much po4? Are they so hungry? I must mention about I don't have active substrate. Only gravel.
If yes then I will have to refilling by buying dry salts...?

Kind Regards all,

Thank you ,

Peter
 
is that possible that plants absorbing so much po4?
Phosphorus deficient plants can uptake relatively much phosphate because for phosphorus uptake they have no "brakes" - in nature, excess phosphorus never happens.
However, probably larger part of phosphates disappear in substrate and in the filter in precipitated compounds. If in substrate, nothing is lost since plants' roots and microbes will make it cycle. If in the filter, the phosphorus is likely lost forever.
 
Hi,
However, probably larger part of phosphates disappear in substrate and in the filter in precipitated compounds. If in substrate, nothing is lost since plants' roots and microbes will make it cycle.
So even if we have only simple gravel, then PO4 can be absorbed as well ? People always saying about that the active substrates absorbing PO4.
Considering fact my tank is still not properly cycled as I still have cloudy water, and during photoperiod water is more clear.

I got now jbl e 902 instead of fluval. I move fluval biomax to jbl e902, and all sponges from fluval I squeezed into jbl e 902.
In jbl e 902 I have to baskets with bio media.
But I don't think any microbes settled there.
Jbl e702 has ony sponges.

Cheers,

Peter,
 
So even if we have only simple gravel
My experiments strongly suggest that:
(1) Silica sand does possess some adsorption qualities for some species. Not strong, to be sure, but given the amount, it's relevant.
(2) In quite short time, silica sand gets enriched with detritus. Even in tanks devoid of animals. With that, adsorption capability multiplies.
(3) In a year or so, silica sand substrate develops into quite resilient matter cycling all nutrients and serving as a reservoir of nutrients.
(4) In time, (silica sand) substrate does not get depleted of nutrients but quite the contrary.
 
My experiments strongly suggest that:
(1) Silica sand does possess some adsorption qualities for some species. Not strong, to be sure, but given the amount, it's relevant.
(2) In quite short time, silica sand gets enriched with detritus. Even in tanks devoid of animals. With that, adsorption capability multiplies.
(3) In a year or so, silica sand substrate develops into quite resilient matter cycling all nutrients and serving as a reservoir of nutrients.
(4) In time, (silica sand) substrate does not get depleted of nutrients but quite the contrary.
Hi,

Thank you for your explanation.

Can we put some video on this forum?

I recorded short video how it is inside my aquarium, but I can't attach file. It says that I can attach jpg,png etc...

Thank you

Kind regards,

Peter
 
Hi, all
I put down below link for short video i have done shortly after photperiod started.
I won't be surprised that somebody will tell me the water is snowy 😄

Hopefully this link will give you better look on what is going on in my tank.

When i went to work, my partner send me a message that she found ~10 fry apisto mc masteri. Now we have the answer why female is so aggressive and terytorial.



Just let me know guys if this link is working properly.

Thank you,
Kind Regards,

Peter
 
You would need to ask @keef321 for a proper answer, but I think the red plant (at the back) is a Ludwigia sp
The red plant at the back is Ludwigia Palustris Super Red, the other plant is Rotala Orange Juice.

Super Red as you can see it is possible to grow in high 8 KH / 8+ PH water, but I’m finding better growth in lower 4 KH (PH still high) water.
 
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Hi all,

Guys sorry for banal question but from this what I can see... Algaes are growing really fast and I think situation in my tank is worsening.
I have question regarding stem plants, they are all so infected by green hair algaes and I don't know really how to deal with it...

Should I just cut them off shortly like an inch above the gravel and then wait for them to regrow?

During last water change I cut off infected leaves from cryptocorynes but to delete infected leaves from stem plants it would took me ages...

I think I add those fertilisers buy instead plants I am Feeding algaes...

Thanks,

Kind Regards,

Peter
 
Hi all,
....... Should I just cut them off shortly like an inch above the gravel and then wait for them to regrow? During last water change I cut off infected leaves from cryptocorynes but to delete infected leaves from stem plants it would took me ages.........
They aren't really "infected", you just have <"plants you don't want">, rather than the "plants you do", but <"they are all plants">.
In a more restricted sense all "green plants" (<"viridiplantae or chlorobionta">) are a monophyletic clade which have the same photosystems and basic physiology.

tree-jpg.jpg


You need more plant mass, this means leaving the leaves on and <"getting some floating plants">, these have leaves that won't get algae growing on them.
Focus on fast and healthy plant growth rather than killing algae, and it will sort itself out!
That one, at the moment you are just in a destructive circle and things won't improve until it stops.

Cheers Darrel
 
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@AquariusPeter
You should really start a New Thread on the Algae issues!
As Darrel stated you have very low plant mass.....and too much turbulence going on.
 
to delete infected leaves from stem plants it would took me ages...

Pedicatella Algae.jpg


For stem plants you just let them grow, cut the tops, throw away the algae infested bottoms and replant.

Here's a photo of my algae infested A.Pedicatellas. We all go through this phase. Focus on fast and healthy plant growth rather than killing algae, and it will sort itself out!
 
Hi all,

They aren't really "infected", you just have <"plants you don't want">, rather than the "plants you do", but <"they are all plants">.



You need more plant mass, this means leaving the leaves on and <"getting some floating plants">, these have leaves that won't get algae growing on them.

That one, at the moment you are just in a destructive circle and things won't improve until it stops.

Cheers Darrel
Hi, all
Thank you for your Help.
I have ordered some limnobium levigatum. I expect this to be delivered tomorrow 4th January.
View attachment 214398

For stem plants you just let them grow, cut the tops, throw away the algae infested bottoms and replant.

Here's a photo of my algae infested A.Pedicatellas. We all go through this phase. Focus on fast and healthy plant growth rather than killing algae, and it will sort itself out!
The reason why I am asking is, I can see new shots from Ludwigia palustris super red.

The new shots are very small and reddish, first days they are okay, without any algaes, but on the 3rd day algaes are starting appear on them.

I need to wait until my floater will come. Hopefully tomorrow.

Thank you

Best Regards,

Peter
 
Hi all,
As noticed sth new, and quickly shot photo of it. In fact I regret I haven't got a chance make a photo yesterday or the day before yesterday.

One of my cryptocorynes released new leave. The new leaves looks very twisted, curled. Yesterday I received floater limnobium levigatum, added straight to tank.

Is it deficiency of sth? According to this twisted leave could it be Boron deficiency? Or to less Ca?

Correct me please, if i am wrong.
When the Duckweed Index breaks down.
So far it has all been <"good news">, but there are situations where the "Duckweed Index" (and in fact plants generally) don't work, either as a mechanism for improving water quality (they need to be in active growth to do this), or as a visual guide to nutrient status. The most important one of these is:
Plant nutrients, mobile or immobile?
Most plant nutrients <"are mobile">, which means that the plant can shuffle them around to where they are needed and <"stock-pile those nutrients"> for <"a rainy-day">. For the mobile nutrients when we add that nutrient the plant can move it to the growing tissue and <"plant growth improves very quickly">. Mobile nutrients include nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) and magnesium (Mg).

Mobile nutrients.View attachment 213722

In terms of the <"Duckweed Index">? If the Amazon Frogbit (Limnobum laevigatum) plants have pale older leaves and poor growth? I just add a complete fertiliser <"Solufeed 2:1:4 and Solufeed Sodium Free TEC or Solufeed Coir TEC Combination"> and plant growth <"should pick up fairly quickly">.

Immobile nutrients.
View attachment 213723
<"Nutrient Deficiencies - MSU Extension Soil Fertility | Montana State University">

The immobile nutrients are where things become a little more problematic when you are using the Duckweed Index. We have had a <"case of manganese (Mn) deficiency">, but for most of us that is pretty unlikely and the more likely options are calcium (Ca) and iron (Fe). I'll cover calcium really quickly by saying that if you use RO water and don't remineralise it at all, but just add a complete fertiliser, calcium deficiency is a possibility, but again fairly unlikely for most of us.

This brings us on to iron (Fe), and iron deficiency is something we see a lot more of, particularly in hard, alkaline water. Because of this I'm going to give it a new post.

cheers Darrel
Cheers,

Kind Regards,

Peter
 

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