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Consistency Deficiency

Good luck with Gluconate @Hufsa. Interested to see how that pans out for ya. 🤞

Regarding the Co2.

If you ignore those pesky old 2nd digits there and rounded up or down, you would have:

6.5
6.4
6.4
6.4
6.4
6.4
6.4
6.4

Starting to look better already right 😉

Obviously you’ve got a couple of readings missing maybe, but ur total range on this last run is 0.08 so maybe not totally perfect……and I know you love perfect 😊…..but it’s inside the 0.1 range, so ur not far off I would think. 👍

Regarding it currently dropping under 6.4, I agree it is just as much about your comfort level as the fishes.

For me, it’s way too stressful to run a tank too close to fish tolerance levels, as they might be just fine about it, but I’d spend way too much time fretting.

I ran my ph drop at 0.9 for a good while and I’ve had it up to 1.1, but that’s about my ‘deal breaker’ level for keeping a happy Kirsty.

So maximum drop should be anywhere between 1ph and ‘Hufsa sleeping well at night ph’ and thats what really matters. 😊
 
If you ignore those pesky old 2nd digits there and rounded up or down, you would have:

6.5
6.4
6.4
6.4
6.4
6.4
6.4
6.4

Starting to look better already right 😉

I'm glad you pointed that out Kirsty, and it saved me doing it, so you are now the human shield for any @Hufsa OCD rage! 😂

Joking aside @Hufsa your pH probe likely isn't accurate enough to be able to determine much beyond the first decimal place (despite what its specs might suggest). So I'd just round to one decimal place and call it a day, thats more than enough to call stable! * Ducks back behind Kirsty *
 
I'm glad you pointed that out Kirsty, and it saved me doing it, so you are now the human shield for any @Hufsa OCD rage! 😂

call it a day, thats more than enough to call stable! * Ducks back behind Kirsty *
The OCD beast👹 really just wants to let go deep down, so its very happy about these messages 😊😁

Been monitoring the PH today and while the total drop is lower than I thought it should be, the stability seems to have arrived (together with slightly lowered standards).

The drop checker is the same lime green as it has been for months and months, so its possible ive been running somewhere around this drop for a long time without any problems 🤷

Im gonna call it a day and be satisfied with the results, the blurping sound from the bar is also not as often now.

Time to sit down and stare at the plants until they unstunt :watching:

20221031_154605.jpg
 
Hi all,
or anyone (including myself) who were wondering how green should Tonina really be, or rather, is there more green to be had than 75%?
I present to you the highly exclusive limited edition Pogostemon helferi "Snow White". Its a real bargain at just 500 dollars a piece!
@Zeus. got <"there first">. I actually think yours might be the, even more select, cultivar <"Ivory Allure"> and that $500 is an <"absolute bargain">.

cheers Darrel
 
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I'm glad you pointed that out Kirsty, and it saved me doing it, so you are now the human shield for any @Hufsa OCD rage! 😂

Joking aside @Hufsa your pH probe likely isn't accurate enough to be able to determine much beyond the first decimal place (despite what its specs might suggest). So I'd just round to one decimal place and call it a day, thats more than enough to call stable! * Ducks back behind Kirsty *

She’s just a pussy cat really. 😊

So long as you don’t mention pink water…….
Or the colour blurple…….
Or tell her that you don’t like moss…..

In which case…..do not disclose your address! 😂
 
Started working on the new micro mix n stuff yesterday and got it all finished up this afternoon :thumbup:
Im aware I said like two days ago I shouldnt spend my energy on micros at the moment, but to my credit I did get the CO2 spray bar installed first at least 😅
I just overestimated my patience (as usual) and how long I could continue to live with the pink water look.

My autodoser has 4 channels and I have only been using 2, one for macro and one for micro.
I have set up lines on the 2 remaining pumps, so now I can adjust Fe and Mn separately from the rest of the traces for a while, until I figure out what my tank likes.
This took a bit of work, but will save work in the long run when I can adjust it without making new micros from scratch.
I only made enough for 30 days this time around, usually I make for ~60 days but I wanted to cut down on wasted ferts.
The channels now go Macro, Micro(Zn,B,Cu,Mo,Ni), Fe, and Mn.
The total levels are the same for now, but the 0,3 ppm iron that has previously been 0,275 DTPA and 0,025 EDDHA is now 0,15 DTPA and 0,15 Gluconate.

Totals per week for future reference:
0,3 Fe (Total)
0,15 Fe DTPA
0,15 Fe Gluconate (Seachem Iron)
---
0,05 Mn EDTA
---
0,02 Zn EDTA
0,02 B
0,006 Cu EDTA
0,009 Mo
0,0001 Ni



PH stuff:
Time​
PH​
Notes​
06 00​
CO2 on (4 hour ramp)​
09 00​
6,44​
09 30​
6,40​
Might be able to shave 30min off CO2 ramp​
10 00​
6,39​
Lights on full​
10 30​
6,39​
11 00​
6,38​
11 30​
6,37​
12 00​
6,37​
12 30​
6,37​
13 00​
6,37​
14 00​
6,37​
15 00​
6,37​
16 00​
6,39​
Lid had been off for pictures​
17 00​
6,39​
Residual effect of lid removal?​
18 00​
6,37​
19 00​
6,35​
CO2 off​
Offgassed PH​
7,71​
Total drop​
1,34​

Happy with this profile :thumbup:
20221031_175043.jpg


The tank is a bit cloudy today because last night I dosed the second treatment of Genchem "No Planaria".
I havent seen any parasites since the first treatment two weeks ago which is technically a positive sign, im just too jaded to get optimistic about the situation at this point.
I hope they are all finally dead though, and I wont have killed all my beautiful Thiara sand snails for nothing 💔
My plan is to do a third treatment even though two treatments are said to be enough to kill Scutariella.
I want to do this very thoroughly because I do genuinely think I will end up culling the entire shrimp population if the parasite shows up another time. And then run the tank for several months with absolutely no shrimp in it.
I dont think I posted a follow up on @Wookii 's query on how the Caridina shrimp are doing, shortly after we discussed it last I concluded that there was only two of them left, one male and one female carrying eggs.
The female has released her eggs one more time now I think, but it seems like the shrimplets do not survive. This morning I found the male dead ☹️
I think the medication just pushed him over the edge poor fellow. If it wasnt all my other messing around that did it, I think a KH of ~3 and GH of ~7 is just too much outside their preferred parameters.
Fancy Caridina are not exactly the most robust creatures. If I do end up with lower KH in my tank at some point I will give Caridina another try then.

Plant health pictures since I have changed micro a bit, need reference pictures of course:
20221031_174521(0).jpg
If possible I would like to see the newest leaves be roughly the same color as the older leaves.

20221031_174540.jpg
Bacopa c. Colorata finally got a speck of algae on it :lol: Im wondering if it might be a bit paler than it needs to be, it doesnt complain sure but I wouldnt be surprised if if the color got a little bit more saturated eventually.
How green vs pink it is seems to be mainly or only determined by light. If it ends up not turning quite as pink as I would like under the Fluval 3.0 lights running 100% then I will likely remove it from the tank for a period of time.
I have it growing emersed in the kitchen as well, so I could put it back in the tank when I eventually upgrade the lights and maybe get more space.

20221031_174545.jpg
Marilia doing fine as usual, it sheds some old leaves still but we will see if I ever work out what causes this. CO2 problems are probably not helping the matter.
This plant actually shows hooking of the ends of the leaf. Its just not something thats easy to notice because the leaves are so round. I should pay attention and see if it ever stops doing that.

20221031_174601.jpg
Assortment of test subjects. Pantanal offshoot alive but angry, business as usual in other words. Rotala OJ stunted in all but one dominant shoot. Rotala mac Mini 4 pale and crying about instability. Ludwigia polycarpa thought about stunting last week but then decided to keep going because its not that kind of plant. To the right, Myriophyllum sp. Guyana is blissfully unaware there ever was a problem with anything.

20221031_174625.jpg
Glandulosa properly angry. If the tip doesnt resume on its own soon I will have to pinch off the top and try to force a sideshoot, because I cant see the plant making any sideshoots on its own so far. Hope it doesnt die, dont have a backup of this one.

20221031_174635.jpg
Tonina for reference, as expected.

20221031_174651.jpg
Pogostemon helferi "Snow White" "Ivory Allure" :lol: This plant is definitely taking the chlorosis hardest, and it has barely grown lately.
Hoping to see improvement in this one soon. There is a little speck of green in the center, I could have sworn that wasnt there two days ago.
Yesterday the tank ran on just freshly changed water and a slosh of Seachem Iron (Fe Gluconate).

20221031_174704.jpg
Rotala Blood Red SG, I pinched off the shoots that were doing the best and replanted them, hoping to squeeze out a few more viable stems from the crumply bits left behind.
Could look a lot better than this of course. In the center some outrageously expensive BG 2011/12 covered in BBA. What is that saying again, "Pearls before swine" ?


Oh and I figured out what is causing the high pitched sound. It wasnt the CO2 system, its the transformer / electrical doodad blob for one of the lights 😬
Not super thrilled about that, I would prefer not burning to death in my sleep or something like that.
Have contacted Fluval and hope to hear from them soon ☠️
 
Woohoo! Looks like you got that stability nailed. 👍

And….looking forward to the new, even rarer ‘zebra helferi’ in green, white, green! 🤞😊

Now you just need a large bottle of wine to keep you company whilst you stare at everything intently, waiting for it to just…..get on and ‘fix’!🍷😂
 
Woohoo! Looks like you got that stability nailed. 👍
Im very pleased 🥰

Now you just need a large bottle of wine to keep you company whilst you stare at everything intently, waiting for it to just…..get on and ‘fix’!🍷😂
Ill probably go for some soda, but the staring has already commenced :lol: Cant wait for those plants to growww!
Also feels very good to have CO2 sorted again, thats a huge "check" on the list


I was thinking about what I could do to distract myself from shenanigans while I leave the plants to uncurl and do some growing for a few weeks.
I think this would be a good time to start testing on lowering KH (away from the tank obviously!).
I have both of the acids mentioned in the thread but havent found a good time yet to start.
15 liter bucket filled with exactly 10 liters, carefully open the bottles outside with the gear on and take it slowly from there.
The water will need to offgas after additions to reveal the correct new PH. I have also stocked up on more KH test.
Then when I know how much acid needs to be added I can try to work out the ppm nutrient additions with the help of some math supported by tests for NO3 and PO4.
Will update that thread when I have anything to share of course, even if it turns out it wasnt feasible/practical.
 
The Helferi deficiency symptoms are so obvious, I'm glad that helped you figure out what to do. Seachem Iron should definitely help, but long term, its not going to be cheap - If what I read on the internet is correct, the bio-availability of Gluconate is not very long so you have to be constantly adding Seachem Iron throughout the course of the week instead of a single weekly doese?

Flux capacitor requires 1.21 gigawatts. hope you have a good electrician to wire up your house for that!
 
Seachem Iron should definitely help, but long term, its not going to be cheap - If what I read on the internet is correct, the bio-availability of Gluconate is not very long so you have to be constantly adding Seachem Iron throughout the course of the week instead of a single weekly doese?
For sure an expensive way to add Fe Gluconate, it was the only source of it I could find at that moment. I have a lead on buying a bag of the dry powder now so will be doing that when this bottle starts to run out 😊
Luckily for me I have the autodoser, so its dosing my ferts daily anyway. So adding Gluconate to the lineup isnt really a problem :thumbup:

Flux capacitor requires 1.21 gigawatts. hope you have a good electrician to wire up your house for that!
😁
 
Hi all,
Pogostemon helferi "Snow White" "Ivory Allure" :lol: This plant is definitely taking the chlorosis hardest, and it has barely grown lately.
Hoping to see improvement in this one soon. There is a little speck of green in the center, I could have sworn that wasnt there two days ago.
That is one thing with iron (Fe) deficiency, it really does turn on and off in an instant. It will be interesting to see if the new growth stays green.
And….looking forward to the new, even rarer ‘zebra helferi’ in green, white, green!
Great idea, because the plant has no ability to move iron to newer tissue you could potentially manufacture green and white stripes as you turned iron ion (Fe++(+)) availability <"on and off">. Only you (and @KirstyF and @erwin123 and @22802 and me and the other person who reads this post) will know how it is done.

This could give you a new <"green and white stripy cultivar"> to go with "Ivory Allure". I'm going to call it Pogostemon helferi <"Hoops">, even though I'm not sure @GHNelson will be a buyer.

cheers Darrel
 
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200.gif


Today my tank decided its gonna have an even bigger drop. For no discernible reason that I can tell.
Its currently chilling at 6,29, been for a few hours. New baseline taken, 7,72.

So a 1,43 PH drop.

white-cat-why.gif
...Ok ill cool it with the gifs

Curve looks as stable as yesterday, just riding lower overall. Fish seem fine.
Drop checker is still lime green, I want to call it nosebleed lime green because we're definitely on the lime-y-er side of the spectrum.
20221101_170807.jpg
Maybe ill call it snot green.
Also yes that is slimy green thread algae growing directly on my drop checker. Dont judge me :lol:

Dont think I should do anything at the moment 🤷‍♀️
Gonna see what PH it decides to be tomorrow 🙃
 
View attachment 197163

Today my tank decided its gonna have an even bigger drop. For no discernible reason that I can tell.
Its currently chilling at 6,29, been for a few hours. New baseline taken, 7,72.

So a 1,43 PH drop.

View attachment 197164
...Ok ill cool it with the gifs

Curve looks as stable as yesterday, just riding lower overall. Fish seem fine.
Drop checker is still lime green, I want to call it nosebleed lime green because we're definitely on the lime-y-er side of the spectrum.
View attachment 197165
Maybe ill call it snot green.
Also yes that is slimy green thread algae growing directly on my drop checker. Dont judge me :lol:

Dont think I should do anything at the moment 🤷‍♀️
Gonna see what PH it decides to be tomorrow 🙃

What could cause the change?

Assuming that the CO2 spray bar is constant, I can only think of:

1. Variation in surface agitation. Could be caused by filter performance, changes in water level etc.

2. Temperature changes.

Anything else?
 
It’s the Trolls!…..

You know she harvests very special troll moss from their nostrils when they are sleeping!?

They are sneaking in once they wake up….. n doing weird stuff! 👍

Oh you meant a sensible answer…my bad 😬

Is it possible that you have had a lack of overnight offgassing @Hufsa (tight lid effect) or less disturbance and therefore started from a lower base point this morning?
 
1. Variation in surface agitation. Could be caused by filter performance, changes in water level etc.
2. Temperature changes.
Good thoughts, I checked the temperature just now and it seems to be the same as it was yesterday. Since there is more CO2 in cooler water I would have expected it to be lower temperature but no not as far as I can tell. Usually my fluctuations in surface agitation are from evaporation, in that case the surface agitation would increase slightly leading to a bit less CO2, not more 🤔
I dont reckon the filter has changed throughput that much over night to affect flow the other way, but I wouldnt be able to say certainly.
They are sneaking in once they wake up….. n doing weird stuff! 👍
:lol: First the vaseline on my camera lens and now this! Maybe I overharvested troll moss last time.. :shh:
Is it possible that you have had a lack of overnight offgassing @Hufsa (tight lid effect) or less disturbance and therefore started from a lower base point this morning?
Maybe, im not sure if lack of disturbance is big enough to cause changes over several days. One thing I can think of is that yesterday the window in the room was open all day, so the room air would probably have had less CO2 in it. Today its been colder outside so window closed for most of the day. The quality of the air was noticeably worse I felt. I did see a tiny change in CO2 reading when I opened the window, but I had decided that I was probably just imagining the correlation.

I will be very interested to see where the drop settles tomorrow.
Since the CO2 spray bar is somewhat unique in that the injection rate doesnt really determine the final drop, I may have to further adjust the amount of CO2 it holds. Im just not going to be able to swing a 1,4 drop mentally, even if the fish seem ok. Too uncomfortable for me, 1,3 seems to be my limit 😅
 
20221105_123338.jpg

Small update (Hufsa-small? Everything is relative I suppose)
PH has been stable, I had to adjust the CO2 spray bar to contain even less CO2 after my last post. This moderated the drop somewhat but I would still like to have a smaller drop ideally. For now I have decided to just let it be.
I have checked the PH a couple of times per day since then, and its been steady all week. The new lids are very good for limiting evaporation as well.
20221105_123543.jpg
I think it was @Hanuman that pioneered the "poor mans PH monitor" 😄 I keep it clamped to the tank and when I want to check the PH I turn it on and the reading stabilizes almost immediately because the probe has been in the tank water all along. Im not sure if its hard on the probe or not to be sitting in tank water a little longer time, maybe someone can tell me? I should probably take it off the tank soon and put it in the correct storage solution. The manual says to never store it in distilled water, but im not sure if tank water is too close to that. I use the special (KCl?) storage solution whenever its not on the tank, its just been very useful to have readings easily available this week.


20221105_123454.jpg
20221105_123500.jpg

Tank has a huge flush of slimy green thread algae right now, quite interesting :geek:
I am not convinced at this point in time that all algae blooms are necessarily a bad sign.
Especially when it comes to green algae. I think it enters into the "Plants we dont want" territory as Darrel would say.
In this case I think there is an argument to be made that the tank conditions have been altered to where growth is now easier for green algae as well as plants.
Im not too fussed, id rather have green algae than something like staghorn or BBA, and im just letting the tank settle and find its footing again.
Changes to CO2 injection is a huge one for the tank and I did mess around with the lighting a bit as well. Just to finish it off also made that iron change.

I think its a little bit like driving on ice, maybe this analogy will not be relatable for the majority of my readers. But if you hit a patch of mirror ice with your car, the worst thing you can do is to start pulling the steering wheel every which way, this guarantees you lose the little grip your tires had on the ice. Its a bit like that with aquaplaning too, dont do too much maneuvering, just chill and wait until you get to the other side of the patch before you start trying to steer again. You should also ease off the gas pedal a bit, but im not going to do that for the tank because I like to yeehaw :twisted:

20221105_123400.jpg 20221105_123637.jpg 20221105_123657.jpg
The Pogostemon helferi is doing a little bit of greening, it has even filled out some green in some existing leaves. Its a little bit difficult to see in the pictures though. I know we say iron is immobile and will only show up in new leaves, but I think the plant does not see new and old quite so binary and there might be a gradient between what is considered new and old leaves.

20221105_123520.jpg
My frogbit has survived the week, they had a couple of stems of Ludwigia Cuba to offer them support against the flow, and it this has made a big difference.
Their roots are quite long, that is interesting. Im not dosing "full traditional EI" but I wouldnt consider the tank to be running particularly lean right now, it should be somewhere in the mid range as far as dosing goes.
20221105_123759.jpg
The cup of Frogbit that I purchased was quite old so the plants were not in the best starting health.
Because of this they have taken a little longer to get going. The color of new leaves are acceptable but not great I would say.
Hope to see further improvement in the frogbit as well as the other plants.
I still cant help but wonder if something is interfering with or blocking the uptake of iron.

Right now all the tank needs is time so thats what its going to get 😊
 
Its about a week later and the slimy thread algae storm is raging on undeterred :geek:

20221111_175401.jpg

Excuse the dead Marilia leaves, ive been too lazy to pick them out this week.

I pulled out a fair amount of the slimy stuff mid week because it was covering the plants so thickly I wasnt sure if they were getting enough circulation and light etc.
This slimy species of algae is almost impossible to remove well, because the strands break off into pieces instead of pulling off the plant cleanly like my faithful other kind of green thread algae does.
Ive been thinking about what to do since it doesnt seem too keen to pass on its own, at least not in the modest time it has been given.
Im not keen to adjust fertilizer to try to combat algae, so far this seems to me to be the wrong end to start untangling the knot in, at least in this case.
I have however also made recent changes to the light, yeehaw changes.
Yeehaw is fine and all, but if you want to yeehaw you must also be prepared for the wild beast youre trying to stay on top of to kick its back feet in the air and toss you face first out of the saddle.
So thats where I am now, in the dust with a bit of sand in my mouth 😁
I have noticed that the slimy green thread algae is most intense in the parts of the tanks that gets the strongest intensity of light. The less strongly lit corner covered by frogbit has only traces.
Not surprising really. But thats where im going to start to try to get back in the proverbial saddle.
Ive lowered the light intensity just now, from 100% on the back light and 70 on the front, to 75% and 50%. And we'll see what happens.
Im very stubbornly keeping the photoperiod at 10 hours for now, I really want this length of photoperiod to work for my tank. Even back in low tech I saw a pretty substantial increase in thread algae (old kind) when I tried 10 hours previously. But Wookii does 10 hours and I want to be Wookii when I grow up. So I will try it a little more. The intensity may need to come down even more to compensate for the length.
One thing I have also become quite acquainted with is another pro of having a low tech tank. Sure, plants may grow like 10 times faster with CO2, but algae definitely does too! Maybe even 20 times faster. This is not just a joke, the intensity and speed of algae growth is significant and unforgiving in a high tech tank. People should definitely consider this if they are thinking about going high tech.
If algae bothers you then you could get some really nasty surprises if you dont have everything under control with high tech.

20221111_175427.jpg

On chlorosis, its not living up to my expectations of improvement so far. Its possible the plants need more time, but the initial impression I get (at least from the helferi) is that its still not quite right. I would expect to see more solidly green growth in the center of the plant one week in. I will give it more time but im not sure if I think it has worked.
 
Well I guess you could say the tank has been given time.
Dont have a ton of pictures to share from the bad and the ugly unfortunately, sometimes it comes down to a choice between "just doing the maintenance" or trying to document doing the maintenance and then not having the energy for the maintenance itself.
In those cases I always choose just getting it done even if it would have been nice to update the journal too. I do love showing off the less glamorous side of the hobby, there is a need for this.

20221114_184450.jpg
Picture from a little while back, the increase in light back then seems to have lead to the Blyxa putting out flower stalks.
I only discovered them as I was trimming the plant group, so that disturbed the plants a bit and they didnt open fully.

20221114_204011.jpg
Theres been a weekly need to clean the intakes, the slimy thread algae comes loose and clogs up the mesh intakes.
Then the strands of the algae act like fine filter floss and starts trapping fine particles, leading to almost complete clogging. My canister filters started sucking air because of this.

The slimy thread algae has been growing directly off the glass and inert materials in the tank. This to me indicates that something about the tank setup is massively in favor of thread algae growth, after all, the glass is not having any nutrient issues.
I think the main cause was the light increase, both brighter and for a longer time. I first turned down the brightness (11.11.22), this didnt seem to make a difference to the algae but has made some of the light loving plants look sad.
I know the intensity was switched way down, because those plants changed color practically over night. L. polycarpa and B. caroliniana Colorata turned green and Cryptocoryne spiralis Red (which likes a lot of light for a crypt) turned a pale brown.
Still, the thread algae continued its massive growth. I was pulling out a liters worth of the stuff on a regular basis.
01.12.22 I had to bite the sour apple and also take the photoperiod back to where it used to be, from 10 to 8 hours. If this helps then it really seems like my tank doesnt handle a long photoperiod very well. Should not attempt this again for a long time (future Hufsa please take note).
I turned the intensity of the light above the light hungry plants up by 5%, because they are still very sad and pale. The new lids mean that the old percentages are not as effective as they were, the lid material steals about 20% I believe, and also diffuses and spreads out the light a bit. In addition to that the lights sit higher above the tank than before. So I have to feel my way to new percentages that work well for the light hungry plants in the back.
Its still a bit too early to tell if the photoperiod change has helped, it seems like the thread algae hasnt grown back as quickly so far, but need to give it a while longer to see for sure.

The tank had gone a really long time since last water change, im checking my notes and it says the last one was over 5 weeks ago. Very long and not planned. I havent been very well so the tank has just been running on its own.
Ive been seeing dead shrimp lately and thats a very bad sign, I managed to squeeze in a 50% water change this past tuesday and I want to do another one quite soon. Going to try to get the tank back on a biweekly water change routine, im hoping I can manage that between a somewhat unpredictable life and other obligations. 50% is a lot on a tank that has been running on its own for so long, but since the water that was in there was obviously not good for the shrimp, I went for this percentage in order to try to get the water purged of whatever the shrimp were dying of as soon as possible. 75% felt like it would have been way too much though.

The ferts ran out and have been remade too, I spread it out over two days which made it more managable :)
I was on the fence about what to do for a long time, but the duckweed index has once again helped guide the way.

For those who said it was a CO2 issue, suck my take a look at these pictures :lol:
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20221206_144429.jpg

As you can see in the pictures the chlorosis problem affects the frogbit too, and they really dont look good at all. They are showing a very strongly reticulated pattern in newest growth, going into full necrosis of new leaves as the problem progresses. In the literature I have seen that chlorosis associated with iron presents mainly with paleness between major veins, while manganese chlorosis presents as a more finely netted pattern as the minor veins still retain some greenness. Obviously the appearance of chlorosis varies significantly from plant species to plant species, this is down to how the leaf structure itself is arranged.
Between that and the iron I have been adding for quite some time (pink water with EDDHA, constant positive readings for iron in water column), I think we might be looking at a manganese.
I think the slimy thread algae came about predominantly from the light changes, while the chlorosis issue is more of a separate thing and one that has been running for quite some time as you all know.
Plants struggling with chlorosis will of course be less resistant to algae, but im not convinced that plant issues alone can lead to thread algae growing straight on glass.

Since I had to make a new batch of ferts anyway, I implemented just one change, added some more Manganese EDTA. Everything else was left the same (@KirstyF pls approve)
So will be going from 0.05 Mn weekly to 0.15 Mn weekly. Fe the same as 50/50 DTPA/Gluc at 0.3 ppm weekly. Continuing to run Fe and Mn in separate solutions from the rest of the micros.
Macros and the other micros are all the same as they were 💪

The frogbit is clearly struggling and overall growth of all the plants is slow, I havent had to remove ANY frogbit since I added them in october, and thats just not normal. The issue really seems to be limiting them, causing a bottleneck of the growth.
Ill see about getting a FTS taken soon™, @plantnoobdude will no doubt be having a tantrum, finally an update but no FTS 😋
 
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