Does high nitrate levels lead to algae?

[Deeny]

My 109 litre tank has been running for about 3 months now and in the past few weeks been noticing black beard algae on the carpet plants and also some spots of algae on the glass around the carpet plant area including behind the neo co2 diffuser.
I did a test this morning with results below;
GH 120
KH 120 - 180
pH 7.0 - 7.5
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 160

This reveals I do have quite a high level of ammonia and I can only think of plant debris as I am yet to introduce fish. I also realised a few weeks ago I shouldn't have been cleaning the external filter media with tap water (I've been doing this every forthnite) so perhaps the bacteria hasn't been given a chance to mature as a result.

Lighting - twinstar 600 with dimmer (I have turned down the intensity by about 25%) - on timer for 6 hours
Filter - eheim pro 4 250
CO2 - on timer for 7 hours. unstable through the day, drop checker changes to blue by the following morning.

Weekly 50% water changes

One thing I have noticed is the rotala green in the corner of the tank is doing great as I re-planted densely while the other stem plants at the back are also doing great. The problem area is the foreground, the carpet plants are going yellow and I can see the bba is stunting their growth.
Advice on how I can solve this algae problem will be very much welcome please.
Sorry for the long essay just a passionate hobbyist.

 

[Zeus.]

First thing stop using hobbist level test kits they are a waste of money.

Does high nitrate levels lead to algae? - No

Algea does well in very low levels, good Nitrate levels leads to optimum plant growth

Lighting - twinstar 600 with dimmer (I have turned down the intensity by about 25%) - on timer for 6 hours
CO2 - on timer for 7 hours. unstable through the day, drop checker changes to blue by the following morning.

What was the Light intensity level to start with?

One hour before lights on for CO2 on isnt enough. I use a duel CO2 injection system controlled Via a PLC I get a great pH drop in less than 1 hour on 500l tank but very high tech system to do it, but on my 50l tank I have CO2 on time 3hrs before lights single CO2 injection simular pH drop, [CO2] needs to be optimum when lights on not 1-2 hours later. I dont know of one other setup that can get the 1.0 pH drop in an hour

CO2 needs to be stable from lights on for first 4-5hours whilst plants get their fill, after that not so critical. Have you done a pH profile ? it would be more benifial to spend your time doing one that testing Gh, Kh etc accept these as they are from the tap. Plants need a steady supply of Cardon to grow in a high tech tank as they adjust there internal mechanisms to suit the [CO2] so it needs to be stable

Filter - eheim pro 4 250

should be enough dependant on return used and positioning and also dependant on how much media you have in the filter. A pic would help

 

[Deeny]

Thanks for the feedback

What was the Light intensity level to start with?
2,400lm

My CO2 comes on 2 hours before lighting and off 1 hour before lights off. CO2 on 2pm, lights on 4pm, CO2 off 9pm, lights off 10pm.

The pH test kit I have (API) reads pH between 6.0 to 7.6 - just done another test now and my pH seems darker than 7.6.

Regarding the filter I've always been unsure of the circulation and wanted to upgrade to a 350 at early stages but according to specification, the 250 should technically be strong enough with circulation of 950litres/hr which is almost 10 times

Filter picture added as requested.

Also added pictures to show the positioning of the Lily pipes and the CO2 diffuser. What do you think.

Thanks

 

[Zeus.]

My CO2 comes on 2 hours before lighting and off 1 hour before lights off. CO2 on 2pm, lights on 4pm, CO2 off 9pm, lights off 10pm.

What was the Light intensity level to start with?
2,400lm

was it on full and you have reduced it to 75% ?

The pH test kit I have (API) reads pH between 6.0 to 7.6 - just done another test now and my pH seems darker than 7.6.

Need the pre CO2 on time pH then a pH every 30 minutes for whole photo period. Doing a pH profile helps a lot. normaly sim for a full 1.0pH drop from pre CO2 on to lights on.

DC max colour change ?

Regarding the filter I've always been unsure of the circulation and wanted to upgrade to a 350 at early stages but according to specification, the 250 should technically be strong enough with circulation of 950litres/hr which is almost 10 times

Output should be good but its more about the turnover in the tank, do the plants sway about in the current

Also added pictures to show the positioning of the Lily pipes and the CO2 diffuser. What do you think.

Full tank shots are much more informative as they help show the good and the not so good then folk can help you more.

Algea issues are normally due to too much light photoperiod and/or intensity with poor flow/turnover and poor CO2 implementation. A pH profile will help diagnosis the cause

 

[Deeny]

Thanks a lot Zeus

Yes lighting was on full blast and now at 75%

Will do a full pH profile as advised today and get back to you with results later in the evening.

In terms of turnover in tank, I do notice some swaying at substrate level with the carpet plants but not a lot. The stem plants at the back as well don't sway at all but seems to be doing fine. Just noticed some bba now on the tips of the Tridents in the tank as well.

Will take tank pictures once light is on as lots of reflection on tank at the moment.

 

[Sarpijk]

I agree with Zeus! Also I have to mention that your tank is not very densely planted thus making all that light redundant. Algae is opportunistic and takes anatvantage of it. Have you disturbed the substrate lately? Try to get some fast growing plants and/or some floating ones. Finally you could try adding a circulator. I like the ones made by Aquael. 500l/h is strong and compact.

 

[ian_m]

You cant use a test kit to measure pH for CO2 drop. Too many interfering ions, you must use a pH meter.

You algae issues are nothing to do with nitrate, I very much doubt you nitrate test kit is reading 160ppm, best to ignore. Alges is caused by fluctuating and poor distribution and flow of CO2. I would put your test kit in the bin and concentrate getting CO2, as indicated by drop checker, spot on before introducing fish (and more plants)

 

[Zeus.]

Yes lighting was on full blast and now at 75%

the Twinstar LED lights are powerful ADA | WASMAS | ZETLIGHT | TWINSTAR | CHIHIROS | LED PAR DATA [The power of light I would turn it down to 50% until tank stable

 

[Deeny]

Thanks for the feedback Sarpijk;

Yes I may have disturbed the substrate a little bit in trying to clear debris recently.

Regarding the density of planting - I bought what I thought would be enough quantity of lilaeopsis novea-zealandia and hermianthus cuba with the hope they will fill into the gaps quick enough. But their growth wasn't as quick as I hoped so yes maybe I need to get some more carpet plants to cover the soil?
Thanks

 

[Deeny]

the Twinstar LED lights are powerful ADA | WASMAS | ZETLIGHT | TWINSTAR | CHIHIROS | LED PAR DATA [The power of light I would turn it down to 50% until tank stable

Okay will turn it down to 50% thanks

 

[Deeny]

You cant use a test kit to measure pH for CO2 drop. Too many interfering ions, you must use a pH meter.

You algae issues are nothing to do with nitrate, I very much doubt you nitrate test kit is reading 160ppm, best to ignore. Alges is caused by fluctuating and poor distribution and flow of CO2. I would put your test kit in the bin and concentrate getting CO2, as indicated by drop checker, spot on before introducing fish (and more plants)

Binned as suggested

Thanks for the advise

 

[foxfish]

Hi Deeny, you can buy a ph pen for £15 ish (unless you want to spend more for a more accurate model) and that will do fine to give you (us) a good idea of how effective your C02 system is working.
Not enough gas and too much light is by far and away the two most common issues leading to excess algae.

 

[Deeny]

Thanks foxfish- will do just that

 

[Deeny]

This is another picture of the tank just to show how yellow the carpet plants are getting and the Lily pipes are beginning to be affected as well. There is also snail infestation as well as you will see on the glass.
I have dimmed the lighting to 50% and ordered a pH pen as well. I will clean the tank tomorrow with a 50% water change and clean the rocks with a metal brush.

 

[Zeus.]

Think I would do two 50% WC if I had the time

 

[Deeny]

Thanks all for the feedback - got the pH pen but just realised I've got to use pure distilled water as part of the initial set up before use which seems to be unavailable in shops but the internet for some reason. I bought a circulation power head as well and waiting for delivery. In the mean time I've been applying flora excel and the algae seems to be in check and most already going pink but my carpet plants has taken a slight hit as well but seems to be recovering.

 

[ian_m]

pure distilled water as part of the initial set up before use which seems to be unavailable in shops

Halfords sell it for car batteries and Boots for water to put in your iron.

 

[Deeny]

Brilliant - thanks

 

[Zeus.]

got the pH pen but just realised I've got to use pure distilled water as part of the initial set up

Or just buy the buffers in the range the pH pen uses for calibration job done. My pen uses 7.01pH and 4.01pH Buffers, but I had some 7.00pH and 4.00pH Buffers already in fridge which I use, figure the 0.01pH out on calibration is going to make little differance in real terms as the pH pen measure the pH which gives a relative index which if noted can be used in conjunction to the colour change of the DC during the CO2 on period.

 

[HiNtZ]

Nitrate DOES cause algae - if you don't have any.