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[HELP] Removing limescale from extra clear glass

I noticed in my weekly maintenance that the razor blade I use for cleaning the glass is really effective, I just need to let some water touch the white lines for a few minutes and the I pass the blade first vertically and then horizontally!!! Hope it is effective with you!!


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How long are you leaving the (eg) citric acid in contact with the limescale? Old-established deposits can take a long time to dissolve.
 
A thing I like to do is scrub the glass with a sponge soaked in lemon acid, let it sit for an hour or so. Then mix a paste in a small bowl made up of 1 part vinegar and 3 parts baking soda and place it on my calcium stain; let it sit for about 2 hours. Then, just wipe off the paste and thoroughly rinse the aquarium. I know this sounds a bit extreme but I have used this method for years and as long as you are careful and rinse the tank afterwards, there should be no threats.

Hope this helps,
 
[UPDATE]
Tried 15% muriatic acid solution. No effect taken!!! o_O
Then it's most likely sulphate salts, which generally can't be removed by common chemical methods.

So, scourers etc is a good start, but beware of scratching the glass.

Next stage is fine polishes. Brasso can work, but a lot of elbow grease is required.

Jewelers rouge and/or cerium oxide can be used, again elbow grease or some form of mechanical polisher will work.
 
I used to be plagued with limescale on my old tanks but I use mostly rainwater now so it’s not so much of a problem. Good luck with removing it.
 
I soaked the glass and continuously passed the sponge for 20 minutes.
what if it is not limescale.
I had many seiryu stones inside the tank. What if they are remains of the seiryu stone that attached to the glass?

With the tank full, the marks are not visible.
 
Hi all,
Tried 15% muriatic acid solution. No effect taken ........
Then it's most likely sulphate salts, which generally can't be removed by common chemical methods.
That means the marks aren't "limescale" (calcium carbonate (CaCO3)).

I guess @ian_m is right but I'm not sure if there is anything else they could be, @X3NiTH night know?

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all, That means the marks aren't "limescale" (calcium carbonate (CaCO3)).

I guess @ian_m is right but I'm not sure if there is anything else they could be, @X3NiTH night know?

cheers Darrel
Many years ago my Dad scraped some chemically unremoveable limescale from my shower cubicle glass at home and got it analysed at his work. Mainly calcium sulphate along with other calcium & silicate based compounds.

Best I did was polish it out using fine silicon carbide grit and cerium oxide (Ebay) on an electric drill polishing pad. In the end it looked like it had etched into the glass as well, as I removed the "whiteness" but the glass was no longer completely smooth. All sorted when shower cubicle was replaced and then making sure that our whole house water softener is always working, so no longer get limescale deposited on anything.
 
Hi all,
Mainly calcium sulphate along with other calcium & silicate based compounds.
Perfect, I think @Oldguy wrote about silicate formation in warm water systems somewhere on the forum?
All sorted when shower cubicle was replaced and then making sure that our whole house water softener is always working, so no longer get limescale deposited on anything.
We've got a water softener (and rain-water in the tanks), so it isn't an issue for me.

cheers Darrel
 
I would suggest first using Diet Coke to shift the stains, you need to let it sit on the surface rather than just wiping on, needs a good steeping so you’ll need to create a dam around the area you want to treat, make sure you use the caffeinated version and not caffeine free because you want the chelation ability of caffeine to mop up any dislodged compounds that may recombine with the surface you are trying to clean. If this doesn’t work then try repeating again but adding Sodium Bicarbonate and mixing on the surface, the reaction will become more Alkiline and this may be needed instead of Acid pH.

Obviously you have experimented using stronger Hydrochloric acid so I would like to point out that since the talk has evolved to possible Silicate deposition under no circumstances should you try to source or use Hydrofluoric acid to do the Job, no tank stain is worth a life, just don’t go there.

Piranha solution though is used to treat Archaeological glass to clear staining (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1296207412000593) but I wouldn’t recommend that either even as a weak solution because If it ends up somewhere you don’t want it will eat organic compounds quite vigorously generating a lot of heat and irreversible destruction.

A safer method for removing silicate deposits (still hazardous) would be using Sodium Hydroxide in conjunction with Sodium EDTA, the need to mix the hydroxide with a chelate was pointed out above as to reduce the possibility of recombinative chemistry back onto the glass surface being cleaned. Here’s a paper discussing this (Improved Methods for Removal of Silicate Deposits) but note the substrate to be cleaned is Carbon Steel and not Glass, however if you note from the abstract of the Archaeological glass cleaning link that Sodium Hydroxide was deemed too aggressive on some surfaces (not sure what type surface you would classify aquarium glass certainly not something from antiquity that needs to be handled like it will turn to dust if you look at it the wrong way), they did use EDTA as a chelate though.

Sometimes it’s just easier to get a new tank or live with what you’ve got!

:)
 
[UPDATE]

I decided to forget the limescale issue and made a new setup.
A few days ago, I noticed a grey/white particles/dust on the surface of the water. I believe it comes from the seiryu stones that I have. Is it possible that the white marks on the glass are in fact seiryu stone particles that build up and attached permanently to the glass?
 
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