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My 60p soft water

So I do 1 part excel to 5 parts water normally I mix up no more than 120ml (can be less for single plants).

I just do the plants in batches whilst I rescape, just wait till the algea goes clear/red dependent on the type.

That's likely to damage to the plant tissue at that kind of concentration - glut is a very strong chemical and damaging the plant tissues would end up causing more issues than it solves.

I'd just ride it out @plantnoobdude, and do manual removal and possibly daily water changes to siphon it off. I'd wager it'll disappear as fast as it appeared.
 
I'd just ride it out @plantnoobdude, and do manual removal and possibly daily water changes to siphon it off. I'd wager it'll disappear as fast as it appeared.
That’s what I did, big water change and trim. Got the skimmer running again. I’m not one for daily WC…. But I did do a slightly larger water change than usual!

All back on track.

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Since then the tank got a massive bacterial bloom…. Not sure why to be honest.
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Visibility barely over 30cm. For now stopped macros and just dosing Ca:Mg:K
Plus micros. Plants seem happy as ever so not exactly devastated. Not sure what my next step should be?
 
Why did you stop dosing macros? If I were having a bacterial bloom I'd just be trying to keep things steady and let the microbiome get settled again.
 
Why did you stop dosing macros? If I were having a bacterial bloom I'd just be trying to keep things steady and let the microbiome get settled again.
Since I dose urea/Nh4No3 I was thinking the steady stream of ammonia dosed daily would make it impossible to get rid of the bacterial bloom.
 
Most of those bacteria in the water column feed on dissolved organics, anyway.
So what would you suggest I do? I am not exactly sure what to do, since most advice online is pretty vague.
 
Time.

system has been through a lot. UV will bandaid it but if you stop the UV before microbes have settled themselves out, it will just pop back.

If anything, the bloom is cleaning your system out.

Keep feeding plants evrything and they will clean the system + the bloom will clean the system. In a few weeks, gin clear water (whether you do daily water change or not).
 
Easiest thing to do is run UV, it will clear it up overnight.
A UV would look rather unsightly in my tank, don’t forget it’s only a 60p. Quite costly as well…
Keep feeding plants evrything and they will clean the system + the bloom will clean the system. In a few weeks, gin clear water (whether you do daily water change or not).
Alright, I’ll do that. So full blast everything to speed it up. Slightly touched up temp and light is at max power as well. Will keep dosing tomorrow macros and micros. Fingers crossed it’ll clear up!

My standard wc regime is every few weeks 30-40%.
 
A UV would look rather unsightly in my tank, don’t forget it’s only a 60p. Quite costly as well…

Alright, I’ll do that. So full blast everything to speed it up. Slightly touched up temp and light is at max power as well. Will keep dosing tomorrow macros and micros. Fingers crossed it’ll clear up!

My standard wc regime is every few weeks 30-40%.
Make sure co2 is on point.

Is exactly what I’ve done in the past!
 
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I have a UV for in-temporary in-tank use on the day I do tank maintenance and remove algae from the glass, because inevitably there would be plenty of spores/algae in the water column, despite doing water change together with the maintenance. It costs less than those in-line models ($30 for what is essentially a 9w bulb and transformer in a glass sleeve +$4.50 for the shade) because there isn't any casing and also, no worries of leaks since its in the tank.
 
Just my opinion...
The dangers presented by bacterial bloom are basically three:
(1) Bacteria increase oxygen demand, day & night (and increase CO2 content). That may harm not only animals but plants, too. They respire oxygen all day long, and while during photosynthesis they can rely on oxygen they produce, during night they are relegated to oxygen in the water column. If it's low, plants suffer, and may die off quickly. Because of it's rapid effect, low oxygen is far more deadly than lack of CO2 or nutrients.
(2) Once plants get troubled/damaged, they lack energy for defense against stressors, incl. facultative parasitic bacteria. The course of events may be disastrous.
(3) If the lack of oxygen gets serious, not only plants but bacteria themselves suffer. They die in large numbers and their dead cells contribute to the organic pollution. Beside that, they turn to anaerobic metabolism. That's always dangerous because anaerobic metabolism produces many unstable, only partially degraded organic compounds, many of which are outright poisonous to animals as well as plants.

Mind, I do not insist that these consequences must occur inevitably. Sometimes they do, other times not.
Be it me, I'd apply activated carbon, vigorous oxygenation, and multiple water changes. Never mind losing CO2. There's quite a lot of CO2 there due to bacterial respiration, and - as I've said - low CO2 does not kill. Low oxygen does.
 
@_Maq_ makes a good point about oxygen and frankly it’s one of the reasons why I always run high light.

@plantnoobdude increasing light, temp, etc have sped up the system (and temp has also reduced gases) - I don’t think it is a cause for concern if you pay attention. We tend to run tanks with massive turnover and high agitation as it is, pair that with good photosynthesis and oxygenate more at night.

The oxygen consumption is a huge piece, but just pay attention - if you start to notice issues, change the water.
 
Are these concerns surrounding oxygen still valid when the tank is pearling vigorously through out the photo period? Are these concerns mainly for “night time”? I can oxygenate more at night so I may start doing that, I have a feeling it’d help everything.
 
nice WC done. Nice to be able to see the tank a bit more….
Some stuff looks a bit ratty due to well uhhh, lack of light but other than that everything is cool.
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Hi all,
Are these concerns surrounding oxygen still valid when the tank is pearling vigorously through out the photo period? Are these concerns mainly for “night time”?
You can still get pearling in water with a very high bioload and BOD, <"A question, dissolved oxygen and a pond">, and in that case it would be possible for there to be low oxygenation problems at night, but away from that scenario then no it isn't a valid concern and your tank <"will remain high"> in dissolved oxygen <"throughout the dark period">.
Are these concerns mainly for “night time”?
That was one of the bones of contention in the <"plants have killed my fish"> threads on other forums. I've told people that if you don't have plants "it is always night", and that plants are massively net oxygen producers and it hasn't always <"gone down very well">.

cheers Darrel
 
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