Behold
Member
This will get Updated as it gets completed
DIY Reactor
Well After searching and searching the only decent reactors were in germany and with the euro situation would cost me about 90 quid plus 15-20 quid delivery.
2 Issues faced me. Flow Per Hour on the reactors and 16mm tubing.
With this and a some help from Ed Seedly I managed to obtain the right bits.
The bits needed cost me 45 quid delivered. This was impatients as I got next day delivery I would have saved 5 quid otherwise. The only thing missing is a ball valve for on top to allow bleeding.
The bits needed are
1) 2 Inch Pipe (no more than 50cm needed I have about 20 left over)
2) 2 Inch 90 Degree Elbow (1 Glue fitting 1 Female British Standard Fitment)
3) 2 Inch Tee with (2 Glue fitting and 1 Female British Standard Fitment on Tee)
4) 2 inch Spigot adapter with Male British Standard Fitment ( I ordered a Glue One this means my top bit sits quite high this would be eliminated)
5) 2 Inch Cap (Female British Standard Fitment)
6) 2 Inch to ½ inch reducing bush
7) ½ Inch to 16mm Hosetails
8) Brass HoseTails (I got 6mm but 4 is the correct fitment but both will work.
9) PVC Pipe Glue
10) PTFE Tape
11) Araldite (Not Shown)
I got all this from Hendesons Pipework. Not all is on there site but they have it in stock.
Tools needed are
Drill and bits
Ruler
Marker Pen
White Spirit
Saw
Sand Paper
Mitre Block
Glove (Optional)
22mm Spanner
Stanley Knife (Sharp knife)
Ok. First layout all the items to make sure its all there and to help understand what your about to do.
Next bit is to work out the pipe lengths needed. I first measured to the stop of all the glue fitments and realised all were 1 ½ inches deep. (Check on yours just to be sure)
The stop is where the X is
I then worked out how much room was in my cabinet and what size I would like. Im my case 50cm’s was what I wanted including the top cap. After laying it tight together out I measured the gap between the Tee and bend. I added 3 inches (To cover both stops) and cut to length. For me I also had to cut a 3 inch section to join my top cap to my tee.
Once cut I de-burred the inside edge and then cut a chamfer on both ends of the pipe. This was for 3 reasons.
1) To allow the pipe to enter the glue socket with no snags.
2) To stop from scraping all the glue up
3) To allow any scaped glue to build up in the chamfer causing a final seal
To cut the chamfer I used the knife and sliced a 45 Degree angle about 50% in to the pipe
Then sanded it to smooth the finish out
This picture show the angle acheved better. Its not a lot but does cause that build up.
I then measured the pipe 1 ½ inched in at each side and marked it with the pen so I knew where to sand the pipe.
You should sand both the pipe and the internals of the Glue socket to give a clean and rough edge that will allow the cement to bond.
Next was to drill a hole to fit the CO2 hosetail in to. I decided to put this on the back of the Bend not the side so the reactor is universal for fitting.
Finally clean all the pipe work in and out with white spirit.
YOU MUST ALLOW TO FULLY DRY AS IT WILL CAUSE THE CEMENT TO NOT CURE
Cover both the 1 ½ inch end of the pipe and then the 1 ½ inch of the glue socket with a thin layer of the cement (This needs to be thick enough to fill any gaps)
Leave about 30 seconds and then insert the pipe in to the socket. Twist the pipe about ¼ of a turn at the same time to spread the glue then push REALLY hard. It should go in fully. There is possibility it will stop just before it gets to the stop (I had this on one side) This is due to the glue and plastic reacting and welding together. Hold the fitting for 30 secs then leave for 3-5 mins. After this the pipe will be set in place
As you can see the glue is beaded in the chamfer providing a final seal
Repeat with the end remembering to start ¼ of a turn from where you need it to sit so that the bend and tee line up on one side.
Finally glue the Spigot one the top in the same way. (Remember this need sanding too)
Once done you should have something resembling this.
Once it had been sat for a while I temporarily fitted the reducing bushes and hose tails just to check it out.
Its exactly 50 cm tall from cap to bottom and 18cm wide from hosetail to edge.
I then drilled some small holes in the pipe that was now blocking the CO2 hole to help split the CO2 up.
Later tonight I will araldite the CO2 connector and tommorow I will be fitting the bushes and Hosetails using the PTFE Tape. rinsing in a watery bleach solution and let dry out. Then filling the media in to the unit. And connecting it up.
More Pics to come.
DIY Reactor
Well After searching and searching the only decent reactors were in germany and with the euro situation would cost me about 90 quid plus 15-20 quid delivery.
2 Issues faced me. Flow Per Hour on the reactors and 16mm tubing.
With this and a some help from Ed Seedly I managed to obtain the right bits.
The bits needed cost me 45 quid delivered. This was impatients as I got next day delivery I would have saved 5 quid otherwise. The only thing missing is a ball valve for on top to allow bleeding.
The bits needed are
1) 2 Inch Pipe (no more than 50cm needed I have about 20 left over)
2) 2 Inch 90 Degree Elbow (1 Glue fitting 1 Female British Standard Fitment)
3) 2 Inch Tee with (2 Glue fitting and 1 Female British Standard Fitment on Tee)
4) 2 inch Spigot adapter with Male British Standard Fitment ( I ordered a Glue One this means my top bit sits quite high this would be eliminated)
5) 2 Inch Cap (Female British Standard Fitment)
6) 2 Inch to ½ inch reducing bush
7) ½ Inch to 16mm Hosetails
8) Brass HoseTails (I got 6mm but 4 is the correct fitment but both will work.
9) PVC Pipe Glue
10) PTFE Tape
11) Araldite (Not Shown)
I got all this from Hendesons Pipework. Not all is on there site but they have it in stock.
Tools needed are
Drill and bits
Ruler
Marker Pen
White Spirit
Saw
Sand Paper
Mitre Block
Glove (Optional)
22mm Spanner
Stanley Knife (Sharp knife)
Ok. First layout all the items to make sure its all there and to help understand what your about to do.
Next bit is to work out the pipe lengths needed. I first measured to the stop of all the glue fitments and realised all were 1 ½ inches deep. (Check on yours just to be sure)
The stop is where the X is
I then worked out how much room was in my cabinet and what size I would like. Im my case 50cm’s was what I wanted including the top cap. After laying it tight together out I measured the gap between the Tee and bend. I added 3 inches (To cover both stops) and cut to length. For me I also had to cut a 3 inch section to join my top cap to my tee.
Once cut I de-burred the inside edge and then cut a chamfer on both ends of the pipe. This was for 3 reasons.
1) To allow the pipe to enter the glue socket with no snags.
2) To stop from scraping all the glue up
3) To allow any scaped glue to build up in the chamfer causing a final seal
To cut the chamfer I used the knife and sliced a 45 Degree angle about 50% in to the pipe
Then sanded it to smooth the finish out
This picture show the angle acheved better. Its not a lot but does cause that build up.
I then measured the pipe 1 ½ inched in at each side and marked it with the pen so I knew where to sand the pipe.
You should sand both the pipe and the internals of the Glue socket to give a clean and rough edge that will allow the cement to bond.
Next was to drill a hole to fit the CO2 hosetail in to. I decided to put this on the back of the Bend not the side so the reactor is universal for fitting.
Finally clean all the pipe work in and out with white spirit.
YOU MUST ALLOW TO FULLY DRY AS IT WILL CAUSE THE CEMENT TO NOT CURE
Cover both the 1 ½ inch end of the pipe and then the 1 ½ inch of the glue socket with a thin layer of the cement (This needs to be thick enough to fill any gaps)
Leave about 30 seconds and then insert the pipe in to the socket. Twist the pipe about ¼ of a turn at the same time to spread the glue then push REALLY hard. It should go in fully. There is possibility it will stop just before it gets to the stop (I had this on one side) This is due to the glue and plastic reacting and welding together. Hold the fitting for 30 secs then leave for 3-5 mins. After this the pipe will be set in place
As you can see the glue is beaded in the chamfer providing a final seal
Repeat with the end remembering to start ¼ of a turn from where you need it to sit so that the bend and tee line up on one side.
Finally glue the Spigot one the top in the same way. (Remember this need sanding too)
Once done you should have something resembling this.
Once it had been sat for a while I temporarily fitted the reducing bushes and hose tails just to check it out.
Its exactly 50 cm tall from cap to bottom and 18cm wide from hosetail to edge.
I then drilled some small holes in the pipe that was now blocking the CO2 hole to help split the CO2 up.
Later tonight I will araldite the CO2 connector and tommorow I will be fitting the bushes and Hosetails using the PTFE Tape. rinsing in a watery bleach solution and let dry out. Then filling the media in to the unit. And connecting it up.
More Pics to come.
