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My second attempt

How often do you clean your filter?
Also it looks like BBA to me
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Hi Ali, I think you are right. I have BBA on my anubias and slight staghorns on my carpets.

Seems BBA is also linked to lack of CO2 or excess in nutrients?
 
In my experience fluctuations in co2 lead to BBA out breaks and I've only ever had staghorn when I slacked on substrate and filter cleaning

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Hi
I have had similar large bubbles from an inline atomizer, but they should be very fine like smoke. I have sent mine back.
You have quite bad BBA on the older leaves on the Anubias. If you can drain the water low enough to expose those leaves and apply neat Easycarbo before topping up the water it will clean them up a treat. Trouble with BBA is it doesn't go away by itself after you fix the cause.
 
Hi
I have had similar large bubbles from an inline atomizer, but they should be very fine like smoke. I have sent mine back.
You have quite bad BBA on the older leaves on the Anubias. If you can drain the water low enough to expose those leaves and apply neat Easycarbo before topping up the water it will clean them up a treat. Trouble with BBA is it doesn't go away by itself after you fix the cause.

Thanks mate for confirming. Got to know from a friend these inline cant be fixed, they have to be replaced with new ones. Not sure if the lfs will replace it for me after more than half a year. I was told they should be soaked in water before being used to open up the pores or somewhere along that line.

Fortunately, these BBA only grow on the right side of my tank. The anubias on the left are not affected, at most are GSA. I don't have any EasyCarbo here selling at the shops. I prefer to go natural, but seems you already answered in the second statement. Probably my cherries will help me get rid of them. If not I'll try to go with Seachem Excel.
 
Excel will work fine of h202. Nothing will eat it until its dead ime

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My plants are pretty much yellowish despite daily dose of ADA Step 1 (4push), BW Essence K (4push), EI's NPK (5ml). One thing is I'm not sure the ratio of the NPK mix as I did not prepare it.
 
Given the problem I cannot dose when the lights are on but only 5 hours later (for a period of 8 hours lighting on), is it better to dose before or '5 hours later'.
 
The nutrients should still be in the water, I dose at approximately 5am and lights come on at 15.15

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It's pretty irrelevant what time you dose at, if you are dosing EI. All that matters is that you dose at roughly the same time every day.
 
The nutrients should still be in the water, I dose at approximately 5am and lights come on at 15.15

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Thanks.

It's pretty irrelevant what time you dose at, if you are dosing EI. All that matters is that you dose at roughly the same time every day.

Got it, I believe so too. Just wanted to confirm if it is valid. As nutrients are already in the water column, it wouldn't disappear until used or changed. But dosing before should be better than dosing after cause the plants might be waiting for the nutrients to come. But like you said if we are dosing EI, that shouldn't be a problem.
 
guRQpaE.jpg


Following the duckweed index, this plant's leaf has curled up a little on the yellow part. Underneath it, the roots are turning brown from the outside. My hydrocotyles all share similar traits.
 

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I turned up the co2 a few notch on friday night. I was on a trip and returned on sunday. I found one dead shrimp, and many hardly breathing. Dropchecker was totally yellow. Hairgrass did not looked as yellow as before. I would like my fauna to remain, and preserve the co2 condition as there are improvements. Should i reduce the injection rate a little, or removing the fauna is a better option?
 
I have dropped the co2 injection rate a little, the DC is towards dark yellow instead of pure yellow (when the faunas were suffocating). pH is yellowish, as seen below.

8:00 PM (5 hours after lights on)
eCj4ZAU.jpg


10:30 PM (half an hour before lights out)
FZMLhgg.jpg


CO2 are turned off at 9:00 PM, lights goes out at 11:00 PM. I read one of the articles, Clive mentioned that the first half of the lights on period are the most important times when CO2 are optimum. Hence, by switching off 2 hours earlier before lights go out, should still be fine as even at 10:30 PM, the pH level is still yellowish as indicated.

Just checked again at 11:00 PM, a minute after lights went out, it was light blue going to total dark blue.
 
3iMRH7J.jpg


Plants remain yellowish, despite the 5th day after co2 injection rate being increased. Going to monitor this weekend if by 3:00 PM (lights on), co2 are at optimum level or not.
 
Despite overdosing co2 for 2 weeks, my plants remain yellowish and BBA is still growing. What can be the cause of my problem?

Beyond that, in the past week I have elevated my light probably 3+ inches.

F2JOuax.jpg


6cPf89N.jpg
 
Flow would be the first culprit.

Indeed the rocks formed lots of spots that stops water from flowing a full circle round the tank. However, these BBA grows at the front right of the tank. These BBA feels the water flow as they will sway. But no doubt, the water flow overall could be bad. Probably switching to a spray bar would be a good attempt.
 
Decided to swap the lily pipe output to spray bar. However, undecided which is the best flow. Testing to point downwards so that it will move towards the top back part.

Lights are currently half a feet+ from water surface. Looks quite dark in the pictures, and slight blindspot in turn. Trying to opt for low light condition.

8aojWAkl.jpg
 
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