New flood light project commin up..

rebel

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@zozo That build is superb with the integrated fans! But I think it's out of the scope for many. I don't think people should muck around with 220V AC unless they have some training etc. In Australia it's illegal to make such connections due to electrocution/ fires etc (insurance won't cover you in Australia).

For most of us plebs, I think DC is safer to play with and keep it below 24V. Most of our builds can be achieved with very low voltage and this makes it safe to mix with water as well.
 

zozo

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My Mission Bathtub always turns into a Mission cement tub in the cellar during the winter times. To keep the frost sensitive plants alive and growing during the winter, it also has a 150 watt AC 220 LED light. 2 x 75 watt 6500K COB unit 7400 lumen each..

I skipped the aesthetics with this one since it hangs to the cellars ceiling.. A very crude build using scraps purely functional only but it has everything needed integrated Fan and timer.

Just a simple old aluminium hood from a Phillips Horticulter MH HPE grow light.
DSC_0952.JPG


For heatsink i used simple aluminium square tube profile with the fan blowing in and over..
https://www.banggood.com/45-X-160MM...ead-For-Flood-Light-AC110220V-p-1124765.html?
DSC_0953.JPG


Works like a charm, but not without the a fan if build into a hood.. :) Hoods trap to much warm air, than it requires some vent and a massive heatsink.

I don't think people should muck around with 220V AC unless they have some training etc.

You are 100% correct, playing with AC and water near can be very hazardous.. Fortunately with the use of leds it all can be made in DC low voltage as well, but this requires a tad more than basic training and a bit more investment with the constant current needed.
 

zozo

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It's in and i'm testing it and it seems to work. :) So far.

Connecting the TC423 to mains is pretty straight foreward, tho it doesn not have a ground connection. And what i don't realy like is it doesn't come with a cover over the connectors. Thus it's wise not to run thiis thing in the open where kids or pets or even adults are able to touch the leads when it's running. But it in a cabinet or maybe even beter in its own closed case.
DSC_0945.JPG


Connecting the lamp is the same thing, 2 wires Live and Nutral, but since it is AC it actualy doesn't realy mater .. But each lamp needs a V+ connection and its seperate CH connection which is the nutral. Again also this doesn't come with a ground connection. If you whish to have this you need to come up with something a board with sockets wired to the TC with a ground to the mains.

Looking closer at the dimmable R7S bulbs it looks like the LEDs are all placed at 1 side on a transparent pcb what gives it a 360° beam angle.
DSC_0947.JPG


That drop weld on the tube needs to be pointed towards the reflector from the hood. And it gives a tad more light.. :)

DSC_0946.JPG


The TC423 comes with the LED Control V2.0 software, that actualy is writen for the TC421 Wifi version. But the TC423 is not WIfi.. The manual on the disk only elaborates on the buttons on the device and not connnecting to the PC. o_O:rolleyes:. Unbelievable incomplete manual giving you a run around connecting it.

As the erroneously writen error message will tell. Not Fount Plaese to search.. :lol: Those Chinese translators realy know how to give a professional impression..
tc423-nf.JPG


Ok, click search.. :eek::facepalm::crazy:
TC423.JPG


After fiddling a bit clicking buttons i figured out it should be configured with the USB driver first. This one is under the menu Controll.
tc423usb.jpg


After which you get this and click OK
tc423usb1.jpg


I didn't try but it could be if you have USB ports using seperate USB drivers you need to perform this again after switching USB port. Thus behold and remember, the manual says nothing about this.

Than after its connected do a time sync by clicking the Clock Icon and you hear a beep and see the time synced on the devices display.

Than hit the File icon in the top menu list a window pops up, enter a name and click save, a Name.lcm file will be saved. Than click the +File icon in the Modelist and another window pops up, enter a name and a mode file Name.Lmf is created in the mode list.

Now you can set the time schedule, it works as a slider from 1% to 100% for each ½ hour. Setting per percent with the use of the mouse as a slider is a major hasle.
When a time table is selected you can also use the Arrow left and Right key on your keyboard. one short press on the arow key is 1% up or down. Again this is something not specified in the manual. :shifty:. Thus again remember this. (Obviously this also goes with teh TC421 Wifi version after all its the same software)

Anyway the software does not come with a jump setting, you can not switch the led from 0% to 100% immediately. It always takes an ½ hour as shown bellow from 07.30 till 08.00 to slowly ramp up till the set percentage. And visa versa dimming down from 18.00 till 18.30.

tc423ts.JPG


Why the software writers did change that i dunno, the old Pled software from the TC420 actualy is easier to use and more straight foreward. Unfortunately the TC423 does not work with the old PLed version software. :wacky: That's a hardware upgrade making it suitable for VAC220 and definitively a software downgrade. And i thought it were smart and educated people developing devices like this. Go figure, who was it again who said, beeing educated says little about intelligents.

The software definitively has some dumb flaws, the Test Play mode doesn't work properly, but in the end it works more or less. Once a mode is installed to the device it runs hardcoded as set.

ANyway, these are the 12 watt led units i ran today.. Still waiting on the 25 watts to arrive and test them. Before i start drilling holes to mount it above the tank.. :thumbup:
 
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rebel

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Epic documentation @zozo . Love your work!

Question: How is that LED cooled? I can only see insulation around it (air) with a glass around the whole thing!!!!????
 

rebel

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btw, the fact it's silly software is because China only cares of selling the first batch (sometimes they only run one batch) and then moving on to another product. They do not care about whether you like it or not, or even whether it actually works.

The exposed AC220 wiring (without ground) is a prime example of this. The person who dies of electrocution from this doesn't post on forums or complain. However he contributes to one sold item. :)
 

zozo

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Question: How is that LED cooled? I can only see insulation around it (air) with a glass around the whole thing!!!!????

They are not, probably do not require cooling, i touched a tube after an hour burning and they were not realy burning hot. i have 1 connected and running now for the complete required shedule of 12 hours 100% Thats so far for the 12 Watt 1000 lumen cob version. The controler runs the set schedule smoothly and the led performs steadily.

And i'm glad i ordered 4 pieces and only need 2, already have one malfunctioning and starts to flicker after a while. Have to message the vendor about that. Still have to test run the other 2.

I wondered myself how these cob units are driven, because there is little room in that tube voor a driver.. Looking realy close i count over 120 tiny led beads on a 65mm x 7mm x 2mm pcb with 6 other realy tiny components that must be rectifier diodes and resistors converting it to a constant voltage unit. Actualy a nice peice of Micro Electronics development but sensitive. :)

Have yet no idea about the 25 watts i ordered. But in the 118mm tube version the 25 watt is about the limit, they do not come stronger in these demimensions. SO i guess up to 25 watt can run without any extra cooling.

btw, the fact it's silly software is because China only cares of selling the first batch (sometimes they only run one batch) and then moving on to another product. They do not care about whether you like it or not, or even whether it actually works.

The exposed AC220 wiring (without ground) is a prime example of this. The person who dies of electrocution from this doesn't post on forums or complain. However he contributes to one sold item. :)

I guess so, i actualy dislike the Ledcontrol software very much.. And miss the jump setting and some other features and have wifi features not useable on this device.. They never should have changed it, the first PLED software is near perfect and far better version. Giving 50 random set time stamps adjustable per minute and percent with a fade or a jump setting.
Knipsel.JPG


The new version software is very poorly writen and feels unfinished.. I think i write a message to the developer asking if the firmware on the TC423 can be installed with Pled software. I'm willing to buy the required firmware flasher if still available. :)
 
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zozo

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Miscounted it, thats 3x31 = 93 led beads and 6 other visible components.. I'm actualy quite impressed about the performance they manage to pull out off such tiny piece.
DSC_0956.JPG
 

zozo

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This is the difference
DSC_0002.jpg


Same amount of led beads but a bigger format.. The 25 Watt also is significantly stronger..

The bottom one is the malfuctionung 12 watt that flickers when connected to a dimmer. Also made a bit croocked, maybe it makes a bad contact because of this dunno.. Don't care i don't think its fixable.. The seller promised me a refund anyway..

And since it runs on a dimmer i install the 25 watts.. And keep the 12 watts as spare in case..

All complete, all tested.. Now its time to wire it all up.. :thumbup:

Btw i found a small label on the foodlights i bought, they seem to be a UK manufactured or distributed product. The label is from
CED Electrical group - Essex.. The Brand is Meridian Lighting..
https://meridianlighting.co.uk/productdetails_/Corn-(SON--Metal-Halide-Replacement)/FL500
I bought it for €5.80 a piece no idea for how much they go in the UK at GPB, you would suspect a tad cheaper, if it can be shipped from UK to main land Europe for that price.

That + €6.50 for the dimmable 25 watt bulb,
rounded up €12.50 for a dimmable floodlight alledgedly 2800 lumens max. If that aint a bargin? :)
 
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Edvet

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zozo

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I came across these LED'lamps for use in terraria/vivaria, not extremely strong but seeing i have NO knowledge of tinkering with electronics something to try out
http://www.veenapackersindia.com/im...arium-light-bulb-b0768nbyqx-306-500x500_0.jpg

Well with a E27 screw fitting there aint much thinkering going on, it screwing it into an E27 fitting and connect it to the mains as any other ordinary household lamp. Nothing to be afraid of.. :) If its dimmable all depends on the internal driver..

Tho its an SMD led setup, personaly i tried a few SMD led setups in the past and they always kinda dissapoint me performance wise. SMD is still widely used, but it gets completely outcompeted by the younger COB designs. COB is much more bundled at a smaller surface than SMD.

Compare it to those MH replacements bulbs with 91 light sources over a surface of 65mm x 10mm giving +/- 2800 lumen at 25 watt. I have the latest for now best performing SMD setup 2100 lummen at 19 watt with 72 sources but spread over 1000x10mm strip surface. In terms of PPFD and PAR the COB rocks the boat, obvious even without knowing excact numbers..

INMHO, forget about SMD, its about oldfashion technique.. :)
 

zozo

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Any easy COB designs for "noobs"?

Huh?.. Trying to present it with this thread.. :) I don't think there is an easier way for now. These R7S cob led replacements are connected the same as any other AC bulb. A Live and a Nutral and a Ground wire if its in a metal hood. If you buy a completely wired R7S floodlight its as simple as put in the bulb and plug into the mains and your done.

The thing is, since they took the old fashion glow tungsten light from the market.. It might be hard to find Metal Halide FLood lights in the shops nowadays. Search for it in the Dutch Language as Halogeen Breedstraler.

https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/gamma-breedstraler-zwart-400w/p/B461609

(Ik zeg het Gama! :D)
 
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Edvet

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Huh?.. Trying to present it with this thread.
Yeah but i see you tinkering with drivers and software and threads and screws.................not "noob friendly":eek:
 

zozo

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Yeah but i see you tinkering with drivers and software and threads and screws.................not "noob friendly":eek:

Ok that's the automated programable dimming part.. you can skip that and also plug the light into any ordenary household dimmer pluged again into a timer from the hardware store..
 

dw1305

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Hi all,
not extremely strong but seeing i have NO knowledge of tinkering with electronics something to try out
I have two of these in one of the tanks in the lab. and they are fine for low tech.

cheers Darrel
 

Edvet

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Some people say these are very good voor terraria, guessing terraria are low light then? Never gave that a thought yet, guessing high tech tanks are needing the highest light in the pet hobbies.
 

zozo

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Some people say these are very good voor terraria, guessing terraria are low light then?

Not neseccarily, some high light terrariums excist.. Most likely depending on the plant species they are inhabiting..

According to this Dutch article about floating plants for large tanks. With a side note added for Terrarium keepers regarding Phyllanthus sp., keeping this plant as carpet in wet and high lighted terrariums
.
https://nbat.nl/artikelen/planten/drijfplanten-voor-grote-aquaria
 

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