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R.O Filtration

Antipofish said:
foxfish said:
Tom Bar uses trickle towers, I dont know if that if a different concept compared to an air stone in the tank?

He also says, on several of his posts, that he has high levels of O2 in his tanks which allow for increased levels of CO2. Trickle towers most definitely would help with O2 saturation levels.
I think that the trickle filtration serves to not only work as incredibly effect biological filtration but by exposing the contents of the tank to air several times an hour the effect also offers huge gas exchange & adds oxygen more efficiently than any other method?
 
krazypara3165 said:
Just out of curiosity what use would a auto top up be? As it would only replace evaporated water to my knowledge......
Well emptying the tank at water change time is a quick form of evaporation ;) .... at the end if the day if the water drops so far then it will be topped up.
 
krazypara3165 said:
Just out of curiosity what use would a auto top up be? As it would only replace evaporated water to my knowledge......
For me the main benefit is the ease of water changes, I syphon out water through air line into a remote drain & the topup replaces the water = very very easy daily water change with no stress or mess but not much use if you are using a RO unit that only produces 2 gallon an hour or less!
 
krazypara3165 said:
Just out of curiosity what use would a auto top up be? As it would only replace evaporated water to my knowledge......

It doesn't only replace evaporated water. It does not know what evaporated water is. It replaces water. Water leaves the tank and the top up system replaces it, whether its caused by evaporation or by water changes.
 
foxfish said:
Well actually I was thinking about a direct top up from a mains water supply, very easy to install but the small ball valve will be visible unless you have a sump of course & if you have a sump you can then have a trickle filter !!

I dont think Discus will appreciate water changes from mains water though. That would be a problem surely in winter.
 
Really auto top up is best when connected to a main feed permanently, otherwise you may as well just use a transfer pump from your holding drums at water change time.
 
Antipofish said:
foxfish said:
Well actually I was thinking about a direct top up from a mains water supply, very easy to install but the small ball valve will be visible unless you have a sump of course & if you have a sump you can then have a trickle filter !!

I dont think Discus will appreciate water changes from mains water though. That would be a problem surely in winter.
Oh why is that? I thought that most of the top breeders used tap water!

The method I use by syphoning water to a drain via air line restricts the flow to a liter or so a minute so virtually any water purification unit that removes chlorine & heavy metals will easily coupe with the flow its just the super inefficient method of the RO system that will struggle to keep up unless you have a booster pump & a big unit.
I have never had a heating issue as changing relatively small 10-15% amount daily at a slow rate just wont effect the temp - although it might effect a 30c tank to a small extent.
 
foxfish said:
Antipofish said:
foxfish said:
Well actually I was thinking about a direct top up from a mains water supply, very easy to install but the small ball valve will be visible unless you have a sump of course & if you have a sump you can then have a trickle filter !!

I dont think Discus will appreciate water changes from mains water though. That would be a problem surely in winter.
Oh why is that? I thought that most of the top breeders used tap water!

Not freezing cold mains water, I imagine they equalise the temperature. And I would not think that "most" of the top breeders use tap water. Some do, as we have heard, but I dont think we can assume that just because some do, it applies to all of them.
 
Hi all,
I do similar and it feels good to supersaturate with O2, the fish seem so energetic, etc. One thing I note that's slightly different is that I cannot add more CO2 without the fish displaying signs of hypoxia (gasping at the surface), even if I supersaturate O2. I've learnt that to complete respiration fish must diffuse CO2 from their gills and the rate of diffusion is strictly dependent on the CO2 concentration in the water (diffuses quicker the greater the difference in CO2 concentration between bloodstream and water going over the gills).
I like lots of O2 as well, the majority of fish are going to come from water that is pretty fully oxygenated naturally. You can tell this from the fact that relatively few fish have evolved adaptations for atmospheric air breathing (some that have are some catfish, anabantoids etc), it would have evolved in plenty more fish if they experienced periods of hypoxia.

If your water is fully oxygenated 99.99% of the time, but de-oxygenated for the remaining 0.001% that is still a huge evolutionary pressure over time for the survival of those fish with behavioural and genetic pre-disposition to air breathing. You can also see this in the catfish super-family the Loricarioidea, where some members of both Loricariidae and Callichthyidae have a gut wall adapted for air breathing (Corydoras, Hypostomus spp.), and show air gulping behaviour, because it occurs across families, this indicates that this is likely to be a trait preserved from their common ancestor. Rheophilic Loricariids like Hypancistrus spp. still show air gulping under conditions of lower oxygen (levels that would be normal for a lot of other fish), even though they have lost the ability to make use of that atmospheric oxygen.

So fish have loads of O2 available to respire, but the removal of CO2 from blood is independent and poses a separate concern............was initially based on observation, as couldn't figure why a fish would be at the surface when there was all this O2 around, thought they were being fussy at first but then read this...it's called the "Bohr-Root" effect. Reducing the rate of CO2 injection caused the fish to return to normal behaviour.
"Natureboy" is right, they aren't entirely independent of one another, because it is the same haemoglobin molecules that are carrying both CO2 and O2. At the interface between the fishes gill and the tank water, the diffusion gradients of both gases are relevant.

I know I've posted this before, but I wrote an article on oxygenation for Plec keepers, which is presently hosted at "Plecoplanet": "Aeration and dissolved oxygen in the aquarium" - <http://plecoplanet.com/?page_id=829>
I think that the trickle filtration serves to not only work as incredibly effect biological filtration but by exposing the contents of the tank to air several times an hour the effect also offers huge gas exchange & adds oxygen more efficiently than any other method?
These are the advantages of trickle filters, they aren't really separate, they are one and the same thing. The trickle filter has a huge gas exchange surface, this means that gas exchange will occur even with a small diffusion gradient between levels of dissolved and atmospheric gases.

If you keep a planted tank, but don't add CO2, this is a win-win situation, as levels of both CO2 and oxygen will be close to their natural maximum saturation. This is also where the "nitrate factory" tag comes in. Trickle filter are nitrate factories, because the filter media is all aerobic, even if we have water with a large BOD (Biochemical Oxygen Demand), the filter has the potential for enough oxygen to diffuse in to keep the biologically mediated oxidation of NH3 > NO2 > NO3. This is another advantage of being fully oxygenated (whatever filtration system you are using) in that it gives you some extra capacity for biological filtration if you have an unnoticed fish death, emergency chloramine in your tap water etc.

cheers Darrel
 
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