AS900- restart and rethink.

LondonDragon

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Thanks, I'm more worried it's something I'm doing and whether I should replace them? Ive upped water changes during to remove excess waste.
Doubt you can do much really, like I couldn't do much about my anubias, just ensure you have enough CO2 and nutrients, and they will eventually sort themselves out, you will just lose some leaves hopefully.
 

SRP3006

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Two have gone right back to the rhizome so Im not holding my breath that they will recover. Obviously it has to be the slowest growing plant in the tank that has to melt
 

Jayefc1

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From what I've seen it happens quite a bit with no explanation some people recommend not putting them.in till the tank matures i had 3 different variation of anubis melt in my 60p after 3 weeks when they seemed to be doing just fine but all the buces where ok guess its the luck of the draw
 

SRP3006

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From what I've seen it happens quite a bit with no explanation some people recommend not putting them.in till the tank matures i had 3 different variation of anubis melt in my 60p after 3 weeks when they seemed to be doing just fine but all the buces where ok guess its the luck of the draw
In one way its good to know its not me doing something wrong. I'm guessing buce are completely lost when they start to melt? As in nothing will grow back from the rhizome.
 

SRP3006

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Don't know if I have an issue with my H'ra? Can anybody see the slightly twisted leaves and dark spots/marks on a few of the leaves. The Hemianthus micranthemoides seems to be fine with no signs or twisted leaves. Can anybody help? Could it be fert related or co2?



Reading online there's quite a few threads discussing this problem.
 
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SRP3006

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Thanks Darrel, looking through that thread seems to point towards a iron deficiency, I haven't got any pale leaves that I've noticed and my water isn't particularly hard (150-170ppm depending on time of year).
All my anubias, Cryptocoryne and especially my frogbit seem fine. I'm guessing the frogbit would show up first if I was iron deficient?


Pic looks like the leaves are yellowing but I assure you that is the light adjustment on my phone.
 

dw1305

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Hi all,
I'm guessing the frogbit would show up first if I was iron deficient?
It wouldn't necessarily show up on the Frogbit first (Frogbit is fine in hard water), but it would allow you to discount CO2. Rotala species look particularly prone to showing iron induced chlorosis, a bit like a Rhododendron would do terrestrially in limy soil.

I think your Frogbit possibly is beginning to show signs of iron deficiency, the new leaves look smaller and paler than the older leaves?

cheers Darrel
 

SRP3006

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If its any help with water parameters I'm in Bridgwater in Somerset, I'm currently dosing 0.7ppm per week via an all in fert diy fert (London dragons recipe I can't take the credit)
I don't think the frogbit is yellowing, new leaves are smaller but I don't think they are yellow (I'll look tomorrow with lights on so I don't spook the inhabitants)
Would the rotala be one of the first sp to show iron problems then?

I'll try to up my dose of iron, will have to look into it being an AIO mix I'm not sure what that entails.
 

dw1305

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Hi all,
I'm in Bridgwater in Somerset
That is Wessex Water, but from a reservoir, rather than an aquifer, so probably "moderately hard", but not really hard like it would be more towards Bristol.
Would the rotala be one of the first sp to show iron problems then?
It looks like Rotala rotundifolia is a <"good "canary">. I don't know exactly what species Rotala Vietnam H'ra is but <"Tropica suggests that it might be a form of R. rotundifolia">.
I'll try to up my dose of iron
It might depend on the chelator, you can probably pick up <"Chempak Sequestered Iron"> cheaply at the moment <"in Wilko's etc.">?

cheers Darrel
 

SRP3006

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Hi all, No, unfortunately it needs to be "chelated", ideally with FeDTPA or FeEDDHA. /www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/fert-calculator-v1-8-currently-no-download-as-next-version-on-its-way.60034/page-9#post-608537']Iron is really"> difficult[/URL] to keep in solution above pH 7.

I'll add in @Zeus.

cheers Darrel
My ph sits at about 7.3 outside of the photoperiod/co2 injection (1300-1900 and 0900-1730 respectively) inside those hours its below 7. Would those values cause me to have problems with iron? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to fully understand that's all. Ferts and deficiencies are probably the area I understand the least so I appreciate your help.

Just to test the iron theory I can buy a premade/premixed iron supplement from seachem, tropica, ada etc.
 

Zeus.

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My ph sits at about 7.3 outside of the photoperiod/co2 injection (1300-1900 and 0900-1730 respectively) inside those hours its below 7

What time do you normally dose your micro mix ? I would aim for lights on when the pH is below 7.0
 

SRP3006

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The all in one fert is automatically dosed at midday with the lights coming on at 1300, ph sits at about 6.7 when it's dosed.

Unless the iron is reacting with the phosphate in the AIO,
 

Zeus.

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Which auto doser are you using ? I have very recently started dosing much more frequently my DIY AIO fert. I use to dose 10ml x7 per week so 70ml a week . I'm now dosing 70ml week in many doses split up in 5mins time intervals between doses

Timing of Ei dosing - which is just using the dilution principle to avoid the possible interactions between Fe and PO4 -very very little and very very often
 

Luketendo

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That Rotala doesn't look too bad to me but I agree that there could be an iron defiency. I have had this before but more severely and iron fixed it straight away.
 

SRP3006

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Which auto doser are you using ? I have very recently started dosing much more frequently my DIY AIO fert. I use to dose 10ml x7 per week so 70ml a week . I'm now dosing 70ml week in many doses split up in 5mins time intervals between doses

Timing of Ei dosing - which is just using the dilution principle to avoid the possible interactions between Fe and PO4 -very very little and very very often
I'm using a jebao doser, which doses 60ml once a day at midday. Just wondering if it could have been the way I mixed up the ferts?
I cannot remember if I added the ascorbic acid and potassium sorbate before the rest of the salts or after. If I had added the salts before lowering the ph would the iron have reacted with the phosphate at the higher pH? Even in the short time it took for me to mix the ferts?

I can quite simply go back to dosing on alternate days, or try dosing a sperate iron supplement
 

Zeus.

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I cannot remember if I added the ascorbic acid and potassium sorbate before the rest of the salts or after.

A simple error makes all the differance ;)

There is no doubt that AIO fertilizers work as the commercial ones have been used for years.

I can quite simply go back to dosing on alternate days, or try dosing a sperate iron supplement

Or just make a fresh AIO solution - always good to get to the 'root' cause of the problem.

Getting Fe DTPA or Fe EDDHA will resolve the issue as might Macro/Micro dosing also. But if its down to adding the salts before adding the acidifiers to the AIO mix I would try that first. Its not like it cost much to make a fresh batch esp if your not using CSM+B as a trace.
 
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