Should it be gooey? I had some flowers fall off (naturally) before but they were ... well ... not covered in slime. I'll see if I see anymore.It is the remains of the thin, outer layer of the Bucephalandra flower.
After reducing traces will the improvement to Ludwigia happen?Considering you have very softwater, effects of excess nutrient (specially traces) would be even more pronounced. Things seem to be improving gradually. If you do not see any improvement of Ludwigia (which you probably won't), please do a couple of massive water changes and cut down on traces.
Most likely, but I can not say for sure. Because Ludwigia leaf curling/bending can also occur due to other factors. That's why I like to keep all the nutrient levels 'low'. Then there is nothing in excess creating toxicity/unmet demand for other nutrients. Daily dosing, good CO2 and flow should keep the system stable. You can always add more later to accelerate growth.After reducing traces will the improvement to Ludwigia happen?
Thanks for sharing - it is good to know it is not just me .Thanks for sharing . If it helps you feel better every time I attempt some kind of rescape like this I end up finishing at 1:30am, exhausted, humbled and wiser...
Just to clarify for my own knowing - the filter running needs to be pre-seeded with bacteria? Or just any old filter (like one in storage without media).Catching the fish can be problematic & time consuming, but the upside is once done they are totally fine for days in a food safe bucket with filter running on low and a tea towel over the top to stop jumping. It does take the pressure off you.
Thanks for this feedback - I was too tired yesterday to even look at the tank. Today, I will run one.Others can chime in but in my opinion if there are fish and there is measurable ammonia I'd run a water change each day that that is the case until it clears. Given this is a mature tank with stems growing, it should hopefully clear quickly. If you have any spare "filter start" solutions lying about now would be a good time to chuck them in too to help things out.
Hmm, what you see on the left is about 2 inches of fluorite (spiked heavy) with maybe an inch of tropica? I had a 9L bag maybe half (or more?) full and I dumped in about 3/4 of that. So maybe 3-6 litres?EDIT: how many litres of new Tropica substrate did you add?
Any old filter for oxygenation if it's just a few hours, a mature one if you're going to take longer. If you can move your canister over that's best (it needs to be kept running really anyhow) but I've also kept a sponge from a sponge filter in my canister filter for a few weeks to mature it for this purpose before now.Just to clarify for my own knowing - the filter running needs to be pre-seeded with bacteria? Or just any old filter (like one in storage without media).
Thanks Ray! I have often just left my canister filter off and filled - probably for upwards of a few hours (it was probably off for 4? I periodically turned it on in there, just to keep it going. Do you know if anyone has nuked their bacteria population with extended periods of "off" time?Any old filter for oxygenation if it's just a few hours, a mature one if you're going to take longer. If you can move your canister over that's best (it needs to be kept running really anyhow) but I've also kept a sponge from a sponge filter in my canister filter for a few weeks to mature it for this purpose before now.
When I added about 1 litre of Tropica substrate to a 17l nano I think it took 2 or 3 days of daily w/c's to clear. You've got a much bigger tank so that will help. Just be wary - I found if you disturb the new substrate for the next 2 or 3 weeks after adding it can release more ammonia all over again.
I would - in theory it should help seed the new substrate with bacteria and if you have it you might as well give it a shot.Also, I just dug up a bottle of seachem stability - though I hate this stuff as I have never been convinced it is actually the right bacteria (it would be better if it was Dr. Tims or that yellow bottle) - would this actually help or should I just daily WC and let nature do its thing.
Thanks and thanks! I plunked in a maintenance dose - I will test ammonia later just to see - and then water change then another maintenance dose! .I would - in theory it should help seed the new substrate with bacteria and if you have it you might as well give it a shot.
The pale new leaves on the Rotala look like it might be starting to suffer from iron (Fe) deficiency.Anyone know what has happened here? Could you explain what the plant is doing?
Thanks for the response, Darrel.Hi all, The pale new leaves on the Rotala look like it might be starting to suffer from iron (Fe) deficiency.
Rotala rotundifolia looks to be quite a <"good "Canary" for iron deficiency">.
I know you have a photo of your Duckweed, could you post it? It could be quite useful as it takes CO2 out of the equation.
Looking at the Lemna that look pretty conclusively an <"iron deficiency issue">.Regarding the coloring, how can I/we tell if they are pale/pink because of my light spectrum (which is primarily warm white) and the plant degenerating chlorophyll to shield itself or if it is a deficiency.
You can. The issue with iron is nearly always availability, so it might depend a little bit on <"the chelator">.I can mix up some purely iron solutions. I am already dosing .1 ppm of iron daily, however.
Excellent - power of floaters.
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