Yes that would be my last resort if I can't find locally at a reasonable price. Buying from ebay always carries the risk of the product not being the grade you want and there is no way one can check the quality without a lab to test the product.others I used small amounts from e-bay
If I don't add a Gluconated Iron source what are my options? Presently I have these possible iron sources available:You don't have to use a Gluconated Iron source, I like to use it because of its low persistence and that it comes mixed with Humic Acid which may provide some natural chelation for the unchelated traces when it all gets mixed up in the bottle. My aim is to have zero EDTA in the tank as it won't play nice with the Fe and let go of it all at the higher KH/pH I run my tank. I boost my Fe Gluconate dose with FeDTPA (11%) instead as it has a little better persistence at higher pH (detectable the day after dosing).
Yes it can be found here but at 15USD the 100ml bottle. Since you are adding 50ml, that's basically 7.5USD just in Seachem Iron for the 500ml total solution. At that price I can already buy myself a 500ml of pre-made Iron trace from one of the liquid fertiliser producers here. The whole point of this DIY stuff is to make it cheaper.An alternative to the Microbe-Lift Plants Fe for ease of use if you can obtain it would be Seachem Flourish Iron (not Flourish Comprehensive as that contains low doses of trace elements).
I found this: https://www.lazada.co.th/products/h...o4m.searchlist.list.7.15093045nOXVlQ&search=1If you have trouble sourcing the Seachem Iron then an alternative is to source Ferrous Gluconate itself, it can can come as a powder or as a liquid and you may be able to get this from a Pharmacy, I would go for the powder if you can. You would also need to source Humic Acid (as a dry powder if you can) and mixing in water (RO/DI or distilled water for zero impurities) with the Fe Gluconate should give you a Seachem or Microbe-Lift facsimile.
I measured my water PH prior Co2 injection and PH was at ~ 7.0 / 7.1. During Co2 injecting PH drops to ~ 6.4 / 6.5. I suppose I would be better off with Fe-DTPA 7%, correct?The choice between using DTPA or EDTA for the Iron depends on the pH of the tank, if you are below 6.5 most of the time then EDTA would do but if the pH is any higher then it will start dropping the Iron making it unavailable. I have measured lower than half of my DTPA dose the next day having spent daytime at pH 6.5 and overnight around pH 7.8 (my KH is about 7.8-8).
I will try to find out more about the process but I am afraid I wont get any information from the sellers I contacted because these acids seems to be imported from China (which is my main concern) and so far I haven't been able to find a professional chemical reseller selling those acids locally. Those that I have found don't have a clue about the exact composition of the product they are selling and how it is made. I also found another company selling a <..liquid humic/fulvic acid product..> but it contains traces which is no good specially because the company can't even tell me which traces and in what quantities. He says he imports the concentrate and simply repackages it. I kindly asked him if he could convey my request to the manufacturer but I am no getting my hope high on this.As you can see it's sourced from Leonardite and it is only 59% purity, so your 80% purity grade appears to be a more concentrated product, very likely it is from a locally sourced Leonardite deposit, the question you need to ask is how it was prepared, which hydroxide was used to solvate the Humic Acid, the RAW one above uses Potassium Hydroxide hence the 4% K content, other hydroxides that can be used are Sodium Hydroxide or Ammonium Hydroxide (from what I've read the Ammonium formulation smells pretty bad). I would prefer the Potassium based product simply because it's the preferred transport ion within plants, certainly more beneficial than Sodium. The Ammonium based product would probably have its uses for the nitrogen component and seeing that humates are used as soil conditioners I would not be surprised if prilled ADA type nutrated plant soils are fortified with this, so I reckon it's has a more targeted use wheras a Potassium based Humic Acid can be applied more liberally as a Tonic in an aquatic environment.
I totally agree and that's why I am not giving up. If we can come up with a recipe that basically drops as much as possible synthetic chelating agents and where all base ingredients can be sourced individually whitout relying on a premix then that would make this fertilizer the best of all I believe.Certainly all this DIY malarkey is not for the everyone but I think where there is the absence of an easy to find nutrient source pre-made or one that comes with the required level of desired elements, then learning how to be able to tailor universal base ingredients together in a way to be advantageous to plant health has to be worth the effort.
You can use the tech. grade, the lab. grade is for analytical work (like making up standards) and is ultrapure.The lab grades are just insanely expensive.
I also bought C6H8O6 (Ascorbic Acid). Would this be ok to replace the Gluconated Iron and instead increase the dose of either Fe-DTPA 7% or Fe-EDTA 13.5%?
You only need one iron (Fe) source, FeDTPA is good for all the pH levels you would encounter in the tank.Only use FE DTPA 7%
Before the development of FeEDTA people used citric acid (C6H8O7) as their acidifier/chelator and ferrous sulphate (FeSO4.7H2O) as their iron source for hydroponics. I would guess that works about as well as ferric gluconate, and they are both considerably less effective than FeDTPA etc.as much as possible any synthetic chelating agent
I can see a reason for adding manganese to the chelator, because manganese and iron deficiency both cause similar looking chlorosis in new growth, and EDTA etc. are very effective chelators and will bind the next available ion (dependent upon frequency and valence).
Probably just in the "all-in-one", you only need a very small amount of each.Should I add ascorbic acide and potassium sorbate to all 3 solutions? I will do as you said earlier with 3 solutions and only mix them in a 1 month worth all-in-on solution
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