George's TMC Signature

Regarding yogurt, I have an old text that suggest using milk (whole) and moss in a blender and then paint that over a stone or whatever you want to moss, and keep it cool and wet for the next 2 weeks.

So Ole's suggestion is spot on, different milk product, but very similar, smells like Hell in your aquarium though, better to do the aquarium water.
Yea, I've done it out side, would never stink the home up inside, you can get evicted for that type of stuff. Japanese landscape stones that need some moss to look aged get this treatment FYI.
I've grown moss outside in bonsai for years. I'll take a new pic of that same Juniper and you can see if I'm good at what I do.
The entire thing is covered. And it's pretty dry in California.
DSM folks run into trouble when they go 100% humidity. Fungus, soil algae etc.

We find moss on trees, all over here, but only when its cooler and has been wet, but it'll grow well in between also, just do not let it get too dry at first, so maybe good 100% humidity initially, but not more than a week or two.
Darrel's suggestion is good, you do not need to totally uncover the DSM, just leave a small gap, this will exchange CO2/O2 in/out of the tank.

I leave a small gap in any DSM I've done, this improves everything and reduces the mold/algae issues. I have some Buce's, maybe 1000$ worth, sitting in a simple tupperware tray that has some holes on the bottom of the lid, plenty of air/in/out etc.
This sits right on top on my 70Gal next to the t5's, plenty of heat and light. Those are Buce's, not moss. Moss is wimpy initially. I wet it out 1-2x a day and place in indirect sunlight, never direct. After 2 weeks, then you can move it.

Adding CO2 to a DMS is a waste of time IME. I tried it on many species when I had a 55 Gallon emergent tank for 3 years or so. Remember, CO2 is heavier than air, and no O2= bad for plants in a sealed DSM.

So a little exchange, not a 100% sealed, is best. What species of moss are you using?
Something like xmas, bulletproof, Fissidens works very well with the method I just suggested. The end result is far better than taking submersed grown Fissidens and then tying to wood and hoping it stays put with cotton thread
Fissidens and many species of moss require a DSM for good attachment it seems. I might be wrong, but I've never seen it attach so well unless a DSM was done.
I have not yet tried this with Mini Pellia, but I certainly plan to.

Cut each piece of moss with a razor? Will Ole come to your home to help you do that fun chore from Hades? haha, I think not, to the blender with your green protein moss shake!

 

Hi all,

It definitely would be a waste of time for the mosses, but higher plants like Tomatoes will show a response to higher CO2. I would think for the plants you might grow DSM it wouldn't offer much appreciable increase in growth rate.


From <Carbon Dioxide In Greenhouses>

cheers Darrel

 

Hi all,

No, they do better emersed, but if you had enough CO2........


cheers Darrel

 

Hi all,

Straight RO, or very, very dilute for the misting.

It definitely will.

I don't think so, if the light levels are too high the photo-systems of the moss will suffer damage whatever happens. Bryophytes aren't like higher plants, they will have maximum productivities orders of magnitude lower than higher plants.
From <Do t8 lights really degrade over time? | Page 2 | UK Aquatic Plant Society>

cheers Darrel

 

Hi all,

We do <http://www.bryoecol.mtu.edu/chapters/9-1LightShade.pdf>

cheers Darrel

 

Hi Darrel,
can I ask you, what light intensity (µmol PAR) would you recommend for aquatic mosses? In the paper (PDF) there is writen that "light compensation point" (LCP) for some mosses being somewhere between 4-12 µmol PAR, but some kinds of mosses have LCP aroud 30 µmol PAR. Also the mosses in the paper are rather terrestrial mosses (although I suppose the aquatic ones will have simillar LCP). On some other forums (e.g. barrreport.com) I had read that for low-light (shady) aquatic plants we should use at least 30-35 µmol PAR. What do you think about it? Is this correct assumption/recommendation? Also I would to know if you have any practical experiences as to the LCP of some most common aquatic mosses/plants: What is the LCP of aquatic Fissidens, Vesicularia, Taxiphyllum, Anubias ... or other low-light/high-light plants? I will be appreciative for any data/suggestions.

PS: Do you have some suggestion for what minimum light intensity (µmol PAR) should we aim for in our natural aquaria (at the substrate = in the lowest levels) ... how much PAR for low-tech vs. high-tech?

Marcel

 

Hey Darrel, I live in Guernsey, the once tomato growing centre of the World! I managed a very big tomato vinery, with an added kio farm & tourist attraction, for many years! I must add this was in an era when organic growing was unheard of & we all worked in a haze of C02 & pesticides!!

 

Hi George,
I doubt 200 µmol PAR is the recommended light intensity for growing mosses. I have about 70 µmol PAR at the substrate in my two nano tanks, and I would say this light intensity is more than suitable for all kinds of aquatic plants, including high-light plants. The low-light plants don't need as much light. Tom Barr suggests 50 µmol PAR (measured at the substrate) for high-light plants. So if at Tropica they grow mosses at 200 µmol PAR, that's much more higher light that most of us are using in our tanks (no doubt). Anyway I will be glad if you report back what T.Andersen said. Tanks!



Also you can check my page for other measurements:
Přírodní akvárium

 

Hi all,

Good post, these are the questions that we need answered, unfortunately I don't know the answers to many of them, and I don't have access to PAR meter.

Again purely guess work, but I would assume that aquatic mosses will have fairly low LCP values, and I don't see that "somewhere between 4-12 µmol PAR" is unreasonable. There are maximum and minimum figures for higher plants from "Physiological Ecology of Tropical Plants" Ulrich Lüttge at <http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=nEbQAtyUJt8C&pg=PA194&lpg=PA194&dq=light+compensation+point+Aroid&source=bl&ots=I_kPfz04sX&sig=ggqk-ITpi_KQKNR3TRh1xU4ddG8&hl=en&sa=X&ei=UaMLUcidAsfW0QW4yYDgDg&sqi=2&ved=0CEYQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&q=light%20compensation%20point%20Aroid&f=false>, which suggests that 0.5µmol photons m-2 sec-1 may be the lower limit for shade plants, and 60 - 200 the upper limit.

cheers Darrel

 

Hi all,

Sad the way things go, you can't compete with cheap gas in the Netherlands and Spanish plastic unless the Government are willing to do their bit.

You'd be fine now, they still have the CO2, but they use IPM for pest control. When I worked on the nursery we were told to be careful with the "Temik", because the Bhopal factory making it had blown up and it was in short supply, but nothing about how toxic it was.
I mucked about a bit at Bath University with perlite trough culture for Tomatoes, but I knew it was a dead duck right from the start.

Did you grow Kiwi Fruit after the Tomatoes had gone? I remember it was a short-lived boom that was going to keep the glass productive.

cheers Darrel

 

I'm very late to this party but an amazing journal George (as to be expected), it's got to be the best I've read for a while, mainly due to everyone pitching in with thoughts, advice and even tomatoes!

Very interested in the yogurt DSM comments - keep meaning to try some DSM moss stones and this is inspiring me to go for it.

I'm sure you've seen this, but I love this DSM journal here and it's one of my favourite scapes:

Aquatic Plant Central

Looking forward to watching this and seeing it start growing in.

 

Hi George, how did you come to the idea of "greek yogurt"? And how much of it do you use (what is "blob")?