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Thanks all. @Angus Your picture is a work of art!

Thanks all. Are their any issues with leaves rotting under the substrate in you use the as anchors? Am I right to understand that cutting one stem and replanting it, you effectively get three: the replanted stem, plus two at the cut node of the first? So is it better to cut and replant above or...

That's what I thought ... but even in about 3" of Adakama, and with some light root balls, several plants made a break for freedom over the first few weeks. @Wolf6 We live in enlightened times, so I try not to judge plants on an scale aesthetic. Every plant has it's value in an equitable...

I bought some Hygrophila Polysperma a couple of months ago and it's gained height well. I'd like to have more stems across a wider ares and am wondering how to propogate it. From what I've read, it can produce root fibers part way along the stem, but mine hasn't. IIRC some stem plants can just...

I've found that C.Wenditi is quite good at filling in the gaps around the bottom of taller plants like Amazon Swords and Anubias Barteri. Is this typical of crypts, and are there any other (non-carpet) plats that are good for similar cover?

If it spreads faster than it dies off, I'll regard that as a success. 😆

I've tried and failed to grow Dwarf Hairgrass fornthe N-th time and am finally giving up hope. My tank is low to medium light but deep and no CO2. What's the smallest (least height) plant that will root in Akadama and spread well in low tech conditions?

After only a week in the tank, my wysteria is sending out roots above the substrate and well up the main stem. Are the sub surface roots lilely to grow at a similar rate? Is there any benefit (other than aesthetic) to trimming the super-surface roots?

WHat power are your T5s and do you use ferts or CO2?

At long last I've upgraded the lights on my 2½' deep 250L tank with 2x45W T5 tubes. The planting is somewhat depleted at the moment with Crypt Balansae, Echinodorus Cordifolius and Crypt Wendtii, none of which is in a great state, and no shortage of algae that has thrived. (I'm working to clear...

In the late 1970s, fearful of nuclear Armageddon, the US administration made plans to move food production underwater. (Water is quite good at absorbing radiation.) Part of the program included the training of SCUBA bees.

Benign neglect? Ha ha! I'm going to use that (starting with my strpppy daughter).

This is no CO2, no ferts, and no artificial light for months, which is why i was surprised

Wasn't worried. Just surprised, not least as my tank gets very little attention or any of the tech lavished on many other tanks.

I have what appears to be a flower on some Anubius. Is this common?

Thanks for the suggestions. Crypt Balansae are the tall Vallis like plants I couldn't remember. I think the Aponogeton will be different enough and should fill the space. Any thoughts on Aponogeton Crispus. (I've found some really cheap on Plants Alive.)

I have a corner of my tank that needs something to fill it and could do with some recommendations. The tank is a bit over 2ft deep and 250L so something tall is needed. Very low tech: low light (for the depth and size), no CO2, no ferts I have some Crypt at the other end (I can't remember...

Yeah, I know that, but if it's not a problem for it to have rotted away in a few months, it's not needed any more, so whether I've used nylon, co-poly, fluro, SWR or boot laces, it means anything that is still there can probably be removed after a few months without fear the moss will float...

And this may actually answer my question. ;-)

My reply was partly in jest. I used what I had in my fishing bag that was least likely to get used for fishing. I don't imagine I'll be needing more than a couple of meters for anchoring moss again in the next few years. Some of the mono I used would almost certainly remain visible even with...

I have used spare, unwanted 4lbs Dennan in the tank. I've used fluorocarbon in the past, but didn't get on well with it. Copolymer is better IMHO but I find good old fashioned Maxima Ultragreen is hard to beat.;)

I tied Taiwan Moss to bogwood with fishing line. The moss seems to be thickening up nicely, but there are areas where the fishing line will always be visible. So how long should I need to leave it tied on before I can be confident that it doesn't need the fishing line any more?

And the moral of the story - never believe what you read on the internet. Thanks!

I've read Crypt Balanasae is a slow grower and I've not seen mention of many people getting it taller than a foot. My tank is 2ft deep. I think Crinum Calamistratum looks great, but I've read it needs good light levels and is difficult to get child bulbs. (It's also relatively expensive.)

Any suggestions for tall (2ft+) plants for a low tech tank? I'm thinking of replacing my Vallis with something that's tolerant of liquid CO2. I know some stem plants would do well, but I've not seen any that I like.

Is there anything a similar size and shape as Vallis (ie will grow to 2ft tall) that is ok with liquid carbon?

Ah. I see. Not sure that's going to be very easy in the circumstance, but thanks.

I confess I can't see how that would work as all the leaves of the Vallis, and all the stems of the Crypts, seem to originate at substrate level or below.

Please can you explain "peel back"?

Much of my Valis Americana and Crypt Wenditi is heavily blighted with algae. I'm working on a remedy for the algae growth this weekend, but if I get rid of all the leaves that are covered on algae, there won't be much left. I can't aford to replant at the moment so I was wondering how harsh...

Mick - I have some Wendtii already, which does well, but I'd like something different. Are there any crypts smaller that Wendtii? Alastair - Hi there. My absence round here has has been mirrored by the lack of attention my tank has suffered. Don't ask me about algae!!! I've been planning a...

My tank is very deep, with low light, no CO2 and I struggle to get good flow round the tank. I have a shallow area of adakama (no more than an inch deep) that needs some cover, preferably with something short. I've tried dwarf hair grass and dwarf swords, and wisteria, but none have done well...

How long does it take Java Moss to attach itself to bogwood?

I think I've only got 1.3Wpg anyway, and can't use too much liquid carbon as I've got Vallis.

If you provide carpet plants with "liquid carbon" to get them established, will they die back if you stop? (PS I know exactly how long a piece of string is. ;-) )

Thanks. From memory I think I've got 1.3wpg so I'm guessing that's compatible with no CO2 injection / liquid carbon. Having seen these pics it's possibly not quite what I had in mind as it looks about the same size as my Crypt Wenditti and I was thinking of something smaller. (Unsurprisingly...

I'm wondering about some Staurogyne Repens for the front of my deep, low tech tank. But I'm confused by what I've read about it. Tropica's website says low llight ... Plant Details ... and the Green Machine says med-high light ... Tropica 1-2-Grow Staurogyne repens - buy beautiful tropical...

Pity. Are there any true aquatic plants that have a similar sort of variegation? (Preferably low light plants.)

I spotted this amazing looking plant in an LFS but all the staff were busy with other customers and I didn't have time to hang around, so I couldn't find out what it was. This is a view from the top and it was about 3" high. My guess is with variagated leaves like this it is probably a high...

Alastair - stop being to ****** generous!!! ;) Having looked at this ... viewtopic.php?f=47&t=3629 ... the uraguayensus doesn't look that much broader than my Valis. Or is that picture not representative? The Rubin looks a possible, but I can only find it at Tropica prices. I'm wondering...

I'd like something broader than Balansae. I got the impression htat Lotus has a tendancy to try to cover the surface, which had put me off before, but I don't know if that's right.

Advice please for some new plants. Must be suitabe for low light (0.25W/l), non CO2, and slow growing, with root systems that can be buried. Firstly I'd like something for the background, with good sized broad (or roundish) leaves upto 12" high that will contrast with my Amazon Swords and...

Increase the bioload - excellent news Darrel!!!! :)

I trimmed my moss the other day for the first time (is it just me or does that sound euphemistic :oops: ) and was surprised how much crud seemed to be hidden in it. Can this be a significant problem for ammonia / nitrate levels etc? Also I'm thinking of getting some CRS which I hope will...

My vallis is currently working it's way across the surface of my tank. Can I just take a pair of scissors to the leaves where they reach the surface without the whole leaf dying back? And my wysteria has grown sufficiently that most stems have no leaves on he lower 12" or more. Replanting top...

Is there any thread you won't answer Bob? ;) (Joke! Just in case it's not obvious.) I wasn't thinking location specific, but to be fair, they are growing over he edge of a cliff with little chance of rooting in anything solid.

My eleocharis parvula is putting out runners :) Should I try to bury them in the substrate?

These are my current plants: Wisteria - mid green Vallis spiralis - mid green Amazon Swords - mid green Dwarf Hair Grass - mid green Taiwan Moss - mid green (soon to be added) Round Pelia - mid green (soon to be added) Crypt wendtii - actually, not mid green, but the brown variety. But the...

My crypts and swords did really badly for a while and I thought they were gonners. After a dramatic change in their environmen and a few weeks som eof them are doing really well. Certainly the crypts are. I lost about half the swords though.

Thanks again Ceg. You have highlighted a fundamental lack of understanding on my part - that DSM is primarily of worth for carpet plants. This has not been particularly apparent from my reading to date. In the light of new learning I shall flood the tank for the sake of the crypts and swords...

Thanks Ceg. Very informative! :) So if i may cross polinate my own threads, my plants have had about 2 weeks emersed, and a high percentage of leaves have died, yet there are signs of new growth. Are the new healthier young leaves likely to already be terrestrial or if I flooded now, are they...

1 - it sounded simple. 2 - it sounded fool proof (based on Tom Barrs writings). 3 - because the tank is deep, and I'm hoping to get away with a low tech, low maintainence, non CO2 set up, and because I wanted to use carpet plants (the hair grass) it sounded like the bet way to a) increase the...

The leaves aren't tending to curl, or at least not till they've gone yellow and black. Add to that, the Swords have suffered worse than the Crypts. Surely if it was too dry, and the Crypts require more moisture, they would have failed before the Swords. Not saying it's wrong (y'all know...

As I understand it, plant leaves die when : - "converting" from emersed to submerged. - "converting" from submerged to emersed. What is this "conversion" and why do the leaves die?

(Appologies to anyone who's read this in my journal but in case it's tucked where most people won't see it ...) A week and a half in to dry starting my tank it's all going badly wrong: Amazon Swords - leaves turning yellow and black and developing holes. Hair Grass - turning yellow...

Point taken.

What have you got that you don't need? (Answering this question should take you to 25 ;) )

Can someone help me out with the differences between, and pros and cons of bunches, potted, pads, cuttings etc etc as listed by various retailers? My instinct tells me roots should always be preferable to cuttings, but some threads and videos I've seen (on the likes of the Tropica website)...

Just doing a quck bit of maths based on the above, does 4 or 5 pots per square foot sound about right? And does that hold for plants in general, just forground plants, or just Hairgrass?